This code popping up intermittently and throwing car into limp. Is this sensor the gas pedal assembly, or is it under the hood? What causes it. Help please. Thanks
2005 s type 3.0 btw

 

Accel pedal sensor 1. By your foot, not under bonnet/hood.

Might be dirty / disconnected (partly) / worn / etc.

 

2005 e type 3.0

 

^^^ TPS = Throttle Position Sensor ^^^

As JagV8 mentioned, the sensor that is throwing the code is located by your foot pedals.

 

Have a new pedal sensor on its way to me. Looking at the one in the car now, it looks like 3 torx screws holding into the pedal assembly, with one of them pretty obstructed. Not sure how I'm going to get to that one but will see if I can manage it. Question...is this sensor replacement a plug and play, or does the car have to be reprogrammed?

 

It's plug and play , it will pay to check the TPS calibration
Afterwards though , to make sure you get 0% & 100% throttle .
But it will run .

 

Sorry, have to ask. How check calibration?

 

You don't get 0 or 100 so don't check for those. No calibration is needed as it's automatic.

 

Ineresting , then why the adjustable TPS ?
I have set a few Nissans now that require being set to WOT , all with a slotted TPS .
That will explain why I havnt seen a percent value on any of my scanners for the jag.
I just figured I needed IDS to read it .

 

It's not meant to be adjustable or adjusted.

 

Folks, I am really thankful for the help and sorry to ask dumb questions but I have to manage most repairs myself. I am finding contortion of being up under the steering column to get to the pedal or sensor is challenging but I think I can do this job with a little more help from you. The sensor is held to the pedal assembly via 3 for screws, but as luck would have it, one of the screws is buried under a molded piece of the pedal assembly, which makes me think I now have to remove the pedal assembly. There are only 3 nuts on studs out of the firewall that seem to hold the assembly on, but the assembly appears to protrude high up under the dash and I'm not sure what I'm looking at and a bit intimidated. Can anyone provide a step by step, or a link for this procedure? Thank you again.

 

go to this link from justanswer it has pictures and all.

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/cr...type_pedal.pdf

 

it may not be meant to be adjusted ,
but it is defiantly adjustable ! see lower pic in post #3. also the same as mine /slotted.
also there is a slot on the app cover as well to adjust min and max sweep of the four internal contact bushes. so it seems for something that is not meant to be adjusted , it has an awful lot of adjustment at both ends !

 

a bit of cut and paste here sorry

I've had the limp mode coming on intermittently over the last three years!!! turn ign on then off and its fine.
normally occurs after parking up for a short time. this weekend it would happen after taking my foot off the accelerator after setting off.and the engine would stall. could maintain movement by left foot braking and keeping the accelerator slightly depressed. I've narrowed it down to the tps.


i got the engine to start by turning the tps forward away from where i think the wear point is inside the sensor then adjusted the accelerator pedal position sensor. at this point the car will not start unless there was pressure on the accelerator. i got past this by moving the adjustable cover on the accelerator potentiometer to its maximum forward position which allowed the car to start. disconnected the battery left it for ten minutes then reconnected it all.

positive result was i drove home in a virualy different car sprightly and responsive without the limp mode kicking in

downside is the abs and cruise dsc warning lights came on probably due to the voltages beeng outside the calibration range or not reseting the park brake properly etc after disconecting the battery.

What voltages should the tps sensor be sending in throttle closed position?
are abs and dsc linked to tps/accelerator ?

bear in mind this is on the side of the road and no test equipment 150 miles from home.

 

Thanks for link, but in looking at it, it seems pretty generic to me and the illustration does not look like the assembly configuration of my 2005 s type. I am hoping that someone who has specific experience with this exact part replacement can chime in. The frustrating thing about these cars is the myriad of possible causes for any single issue. There are other threads about this code and symptoms to which people have claimed curing by replacing the battery or cleaning a module by the spare tire that is related to ebrakes, or just drive as is, knowing an unknown cause will require limping to side of road and restarting vehicle and carrying on until the next episode. My personal challenge is being a senior citizen on fixed income yet needing a reliable car. I have a paid for car that is killing me with intermittent problems, or I go buy a new car with payments I can't justify either. a conundrum.

 

It only generic to s types , the link is for an 09 , and the illustration is exactly the same as my 03 . So I doubt very mutch thay changed any thing for 05 .
I think the point/trick you missed is to adjust the peddals all the way forward and that lines up the obstructed torx bolt with a hole in the plastic obstruction/bracket !
The picture shows inserting a long torx t30 driver throu the bracket on a downward angle , obvesly not possable till mentioned covers are removed ,
S types are great cars with quirks like any other car , I think you will find it hard to match this kind of style / compfort with any thing without expensive or time consuming breed inherent issues ! Get it sorted and enjoy !
If you have to make payments on a replacement car , isn't that the same as making payments on repairs on a current car , exept at least repairing your current car you know what you have . Your not purchasing any suppresses.

 

Thanks datsports...I will review the drawing again. Hey, on my pedal assembly, there is a 10mm bolt that runs thru the bracket that holds the sensor and that bolt is loose and will not tighten. It allows the assembly with sensor to wobble a bit. I know it probably shouldn't. Other than rhat 10mm I can't see anything else holding that intermediate sensor bracket into the main pedal assembly bracket. What am I missing?





10mm hex thru a slotted bracket

 

OK , i have noticed the difference i think . yours must be LHD ?
this in fact would make this job easier !!
you do not need to touch the 10mm bolt that you mention . it is a sliding bush for the adjustable pedals and is separate to the sensor .
it will have a little movement as its a nylon bushing that floats in a slot .


now i could not find a video on the s-type but this will be very close to what you are dealing with . except the x-type has nuts and the s-type has torx bolts .

so fast forward this link to 3min and do what this guy does its this easy !

 

Thanks all for helpful advice. Fyi, I changed out the pedal/sensor (rheostat ) assembly and test drove. So far no codes but it was intermittent in the first place so time will tell. Btw, changing that assembly was more difficult than pulling the top 1/2 of engine off. Really tight, inaccessible. I do have the adjustable pedals and the dilemma was getting to the Torx that was obstructed by molded plastic assembly of adjusting bracket. I ended up having to pull a clevis pin and circlip to enable moving the pedal assembly just enough to get to that torx. Upside down like a human pretzel and the full use of slang terms was required.

 

Ha. Nice work .
Slang terms always get results .