Can you help me make sense of this data? Please?

Freeze Frame Data
DTCFRZF P0420
Fuelsys 1 CL
Fuelsys 2 N/A ?
Load_PCT (%) 43.5
ETC (oF) 212
SHRTFT1 (%) -2.3
LONGFT1 (%) -10.2
SHRTFT 2 (%) -3.1
LONGFT2 (%) -7.8
FRP (PSI) 39.6
RPM (/min) 2046
VSS (mph) 61

IM ANALYSIS
MIL Status ON
Misfire Monitor OK
Fuelsys Monitor OK
Comp Component OK
Catalyst Monitor OK
HTD Catalyst N/A
Evap Sys Monitor OK
Sec Air System N/A
A/C Refrig Mon N/A
Oxygen Sensor Mon OK
Oxygen Sensor Heater OK
EGR System N/A N/A


Thank you! Thank you! If you can tell me what is wrong with this car! Thank you!

 

As it starts "P0", that's one of the standard codes and so you can read about it on the net for any car (try several).

Be aware that a code is best regarded as a hint not a diagnosis.

If you can, try to fix the problem without clearing the code (the car will normally clear it if it's fixed). But otherwise clear it and see whether it returns.... can need a lot of driving over a long time , though, which can fool you into thinking it's fixed when it isn't.

It's almost essential to post the model of car you have.

 

Hopefully he's talking S Type....but 4.0, 4.2, 3.0, supercharged?

Freeze Frame Data
DTCFRZF P0420
Fuelsys 1 CL-----------Closed Loop Feuling. 02 sensor is feeding back.
Fuelsys 2 N/A ?
Load_PCT (%) 43.5----Calculated load
ETC (oF) 212----------Engine Temp./Coolant
SHRTFT1 (%) -2.3-----Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
LONGFT1 (%) -10.2----Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
SHRTFT 2 (%) -3.1----Short Term Bank 2
LONGFT2 (%) -7.8-----Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2
FRP (PSI) 39.6---------Fuel Pressure at the Rail
RPM (/min) 2046-------Self Explanatory
VSS (mph) 61----------Vehicle Speed

P0420 is a catalyst effeciency code bank 1. Could be several things to cause this. The catalysts will need to be monitored, along with o2 sensors, and a few other perameters in order to properly diagnose. The freeze frame is just a snapshot of what the entire system was doing at the time of the fault. From what I see, it seems to be running ok.. maybe a tad on the rich side, bank 1. Have that catalyst looked at.

 

Hey Po, it would be great to see if you can develop a posture that makes you want to stay here for a while, without getting more than a little jaded by a sense of futility. Most have failed at the former, and I have succeeded quite nicely with the latter. Major props for you contributions to this Forum to date.

 

I'm already jaded by the fact I see these things every day...... But I'll let you in on a secret.....I do enjoy these Jags, and it is my duty in life to be with them....I've accepted that fact after several failed attempts at leaving.

I thank you kind sir for your complement and hopefully I'll stick around. I'll play it by ear. I know there will be alot of repeat posts written, and yes I'll probably feel that sense of futility as I do at work sometimes. But hey if I can help someone, that's ok too. Heaven knows I need and get alot of help.

Thanks, again.....is it Andy?

 

It's always worth monitoring cats since you want to know they're working.

I don't know of a reason why a cat (good or bad) would cause rich running. Lots of other things could, which is why it's worth spending time reading.

 

Sorry. I posted it in a related thread... Should have put the details here too.

It is an 2002 S-type with a 3.0L engine. It is only getting 20-23mpg so I think there is something up. Also the engine has had a 'stutter' where it seems to bog down for a split second, 2-5 times, occasionally when hot.

I tried some RXP "gas kicker" in the gas (at the suggestion of a local exhaust shop) and it seems to smooth the engine when it is in the gas. But it is $7 for two tanks worth. Even with Shell V-Power 93 octane it is 'stuttering' a bit.

How do I 'have the catalyst looked at"? I called all the exhaust shops in town and they said all they can do is replace them and hope it fixes it. But none have the cats!

All suggestions welcome!

 

A stutter could be a host of things, coils, transmission, vacuum leak, plugs, water in fuel, and on and on and on. But according to your FF readings, looks a little rich, but not bad.

Any COMPETENT shop should be able to diagnose a defective catalyst, 02 sensor or any related part pertaining to p0420. If the diagnosis cannot be achieved by chosen shop, go to another one.

 

An exhaust shop tends to be replacing things, whereas you need a competent diagnostic of your engine and especially it's control system, which very definitely includes O2 sensors and cat(s) as well as the other things already mentioned.

 

None of the 'shops' here in my little town will "work on Jags". "We don't touch Jaguars." is the repeating theme. ('02 S-type 3.0L)

So I have begun my own Jaguar repair service center.

I have been getting the P0420 code off and on for about 2 months now. There has also been the 'shudder' or 'stutter' I have mentioned at both idle and higher RPMs. It only occurs after the engine is warm, having been driven for 20-30 minutes.

The P0420 has been pointing to the passenger side. I have been gathering parts to break into the intake manifold (passenger side) of the engine.

I have the plugs, upper intake plenum gaskets, anti-seize and tools in hand. A set of 6 new OEM coils are on the way. They are supposed to arrive on Thursday. My wife is off on Friday, so I will start the repairs on Thursday evening (with pics along the way).

I am optimistic that the new coils and plugs will solve the problem. Just yesterday the PCM threw a new code (P0305) indicating a misfire on cylinder 5. That is the middle cylinder on the left (passenger side) of the engine.

Apparently, from what I have read, it takes at least 2 consecutive misfires on the same cylinder to throw a P030X code. So there is a reasonable chance that cylinder has been misfiring occasionally all along and causing the Catalytic converter code (P0420) I have been getting on the same side.

From the JTIS there are a whole slew of other things that can cause the same (P0420/P0305) codes. The JTIS lists things such as:

So I will be checking out a lot of things while I am in there. I have run a lot of injector cleaner through the system since the problem began. Seafoam, MMO, RxP Gas Kicker. None of them except the RxP seemed to help, and it only worked when it was in the tank and not afterward.

QUESTION: Is there a way to visibly test the fuel injectors? Plug them out and observe spray pattern and consistency?

QUESTION: On all the freeze frame data recordings I have seen (5-6 readings), the fuel rail pressure has been right at 39.5psi. Does that seem to be about right? I know this does not tell me about individual injectors... but I want to be certain the fuel pump is doing its job.

QUESTION: Any good injector cleaners that can be put directly into the fuel rail on the S-type? Does this work just like any other F.I. vehicle as far as connections go?

I am assuming the F.Injectors are Motorcraft too. I should pull one from the easy side to be certain I can get one locally if needed since that Intake is such a bear to get under.

Anything else you all can suggest before I go in elbow deep? I have read and reread the great write-up on the V6 X-type (not finding link right now, but search forums or ask if you need it).

Thanks for any additional suggestions. Thanks. Greg

 

You could potentially have the injectors ultrasonic cleaned. Maybe they'd tell you if any was worn or damaged? But not really convenient to do if you can only have the car apart for a day or so.

You may get a better feel for the likely state of them if you see whether any crud comes out of the fuel rail once it's opened up.

It must be possible to test an injector by using a known pulse width and fuel pressure, then measuring what it squirts out, but I've never done it.

 

Be sure and check this rubber elbow. It has caused a lot of problems. It's a cheap part but hard to get too. Here is a list of common S Type faults. Check out the PCV elbow instructions. It's about half way down the list.

http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5336
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.
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I think I will swap the #5 injector over to the easy side of the engine. That way, if it is a problem, I can get it out easily. I'll buy a couple of replacement gaskets just to make certain they do not leak.

Thanks.

 

Why don't you replace the coils first? I wouldn't mess with the injectors until I did that. I've never replaced an injector on a 3.0L. They just don't have problems. At least in our area. Cyl. 5 misfire can cause that p0420, and the most likely thing to cause that misfire is the coil.

 

OK. Thanks PoBoyBlues. I'll go with your advice. Hopefully I will not have to go back in. But it will be easier the second time around IF I need to!