Hey guys,

Just got over a transmission error on my new S-Type, and now have another. I bought a scanner and cleared the fault codes, and now it's showing P1000 every time. I have searched and found the information below and tried it several times.

COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR TRANSMISSION DRIVE CYCLE

The Comprehensive Component Monitor transmission drive cycle will “check” all transmission system components.
1 Engine and transmission at normal operating temperature. Ignition OFF
2 With gear selector in P and the ignition ON. Check gearshift interlock by attempting to move selector without pressing the brake pedal. Verify P state illumination.
3 Press and hold the brake pedal. Move the gear selector to R. Verify R state illumination.
4 Set the parking brake. Press and hold the brake pedal. Attempt to start the engine. The engine should not start.
5 Move the gear selector to N. Verify N state illumination. Start the engine.
6 With the hand brake set and the brake pedal pressed, move the gear selector to the remaining positions in the J Gate (D, 4, 3, 2) for five (5) seconds each. Verify
the state illumination in each position.
7 Move the gear selector back to 4. Verify 4 state illumination.
8 Move the gear selector to D. Verify D state illumination.
9 Move the gear selector to N. Verify N state illumination.
10 Select R, release the brakes and drive the vehicle in Reverse for a short distance.
11 Stop the vehicle.
12 Select 2 and drive the vehicle up to 65 km/h (40 mph). Hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5) seconds.
13 Select 3 and hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5) seconds.
14 Select 4 and hold 65 km/h (40 mph) for a minimum of five (5) seconds.
15 Select D and accelerate to a minimum speed of 80 km/h (50 mph). Hold 80 – 129 km/h (50 – 80 mph) for a minimum of 1.7 kilometers (1 mile).
16 Stop the vehicle; do not switch OFF the engine.
17 Use WDS Datalogger “TOTAL NUMBER OF DTC SET” to ensure that transmission DTC monitoring is complete.

Firstly, do all of these steps have to be done in this exact order without interruption? It's hard where I live to find a road I can do all of this on at once.

Secondly, what's the WDS Datalogger described in step 17? Is this dealer only? Is this why it will not clear?

I got the car through inspection today, but it will not go through emissions due to this systems not ready code, so I am unable to get my tags and my temp permit runs out tomorrow. What could I be doing wrong? The car has done about 50 miles since the code clear. I was told by the emissions inspector to do at least 100 miles, but I assumed that it was just to be sure the transmission goes through all the steps outlined in the drive cycle??

 

WDS is an old type of dealer tool. Now it's IDS. You shouldn't need either to get a working car to change its P1000 to P1111.

P1000 means the supported monitors have not all Completed. Did you post about the CCM because that's the only one that hasn't?

You can never clear a P1000 except by driving in such a way that the monitors all set (aka complete).

Have you done at least two cold-to-hot drive cycles since you last cleared the DTCs?

It's possible to have a fault which blocks a monitor from running to completion, but let's hope that's not the issue.

One thing that can cause grief is having too little or too much gas in the tank. Then the EVAP can't run. I think you need between 15-85% but check the workshop manual if you need the right figures.

 

Jagv8 is correct and this is to keep people with scanners from clearing codes and getting an inspection (AKA OBDI style) and depending on state (US), you can either haver 1 or 2 monitors not ready. (USUALLY 2 ok for 2001 and older ODBII cars) 1, 2002 and newer. I dont know about NOVA??? is that next to Camaro?
I usually do 30 miles steady state on the freeway. 15 miles 1 way, shut off, restart and come back. Most decent scanners will let you pull up and "monitor" the monitors to show when theyre ready

 

I think NoVA is Spanish for "doesn't go" or something like that

 

Yes I've heard that one too. The story goes that at the time the Spanish market got quite a tickle out of a car named "doesn't go". The 'Impact' was another good one.

 

It looks like I'm being dragged kicking & screaming into the world of OBDII as besides my recent bout with the STR my99 Suburban isn't throwing any codes but it's got an idle stumbled and I'm going to have to start digging.

So ... Is there a nice explanation somewhere, overview style, that explains issues like you guys just described?

Bob S.

 

I now have approximately 80 miles on the car an mixed city and motorway driving. My el cheapo scanner just shows P1000, no other codes, & it doesn't break it down into system readiness. The printout from the inspection station shows

Component N R
Catalyst N R
EVAP N R
O2 N R

Missfire Ready
Fuel system Ready
HO2 Ready

Tried doing the procedure again through the gears at certain speeds etc, but no change. I nave not done 2 full cold start cycles as of yet, that will have to wait until tomorrow or late tonight. Fuel was low, but is now 1/2 - 3/4 so not to high the EVAP won't work. I may even go back to the testing station as it's just down the road and see if any of the 4 not ready monitors have switched to OK so I can narrow it down a bit more.

I did notice before I cleared the transmission codes that P1111 was present before, so I am assuming all the systems work.....just wondering when they will play ball so I can go get my tags!

 

I need to register my car too shortly and I had a MAF replaced recently so I certainly hope they cleared everything.

That driving proceedure you listed could easily get you killed on busy public roads. Sounds like a two person project as well.

Bob S.

 

OBD is now at OBD-II and goes back about 25 years. It's a BIG (HUGE) topic. There are many web sites (and no doubt books etc) with details but unless you have plenty of time and enthusiasm.....

The core part is only about emissions and the main engine (and related, so driveline if you prefer) sensors & actuators which impact on emissions. These are the parts mandated (by law) in lots of parts of the world - in various slightly different ways, even in different states to some extent

And then there are the I/M (here, called MoT) etc tests to decide if your car is allowed on the road. Some places do tail pipe (exhaust) tests, some do OBD (& some both).

There are generic OBD (meaning any car maker, any car) and maker-specific (non-generic) OBD things.

Any P1 code is maker-specific and the maker can even specify a code is model and/or model year specific if they wish. So, for example, P1000 on the S-Type will probably either not exist or mean something else on your other car.

Even with a generic code the maker may have their own manuals with details of what the common and/or possible causes are. JTIS does that kind of thing and so does alldatadiy (I understand).

Generally, consider a code as a hint. Not a diagnosis. Basically, use your brain

Ford publish a lot of free OBD stuff about their own vehicles and GM are also quite good.

If you happen to know the basics of how engines work and how feedback control systems work, things are easier. Just remember that you have 25+ years to catch up on so be realistic.

http://www.onboarddiagnostics.com is one place to look, e.g. http://www.onboarddiagnostics.com/page02.htm

wikipedia is OK, have a look around, e.g. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs

To a fair extent the real stuff is what ISO & SAE publish but it's tough going (and not free). E.g. SAE J1979

Sadly, all the OBD tools I've seen ASSUME you know all about OBD-II and how & why to use the tool. And rarely warn you not to clear codes without good cause. (OBD is changing to fix that: you won't be able to clear them. Yes, really.)

 

To set monitors you don't normally need to follow a specific drive cycle exactly BUT the drive cycle is a "quick" way to cover all the issues that "should" get a specific monitor to set (Complete). Unless you have a fault, normal driving at varied speeds etc will be fine.

I'm guessig "N R" means Not Ready (so, supported but not complete) but I have not seen that sort of print out before.

 

About now is when you realise (if you didn't already) that Brutal and the other techs know and do battle with some scary stuff!

 

Ok, she's passed

my crapo code reader still shows P1000 not ready, but the machine let it go through. He said the systems were now all ready, but it was telling him that the "comprehensive system check" was not complete. He ran it anyway and it passed. I plugged mine in as soon as i got home and it still showed not ready, so who knows.

Now all I need to do is the many other ****ly things that are missing or not working.

Jagv8 - Good insight into the realm of OBD, although sometimes even a general ieda leads you down many dead ends until it's figured out - it most definitely is just a hint. Whatever happened to carrying a cap, set of points and a condenser to keep the things going

Much as this inspection & emissions saga has taken up most of my day.......I will Never miss the old MOT!

 

I feel for you. (MoTs are scary here.)

I think your reader's telling you the truth (albeit without much extra data).

It fits with the CCM (that's the one) not being ready (or indeed any other not being) but remember what Brutal said about being allowed 1 or 2 that aren't ready. (Which also changes with newer years but hey let's pass on.)

So you do have an "issue" (it should be ready i.e. complete). But the rush to figure what's wrong has gone

Even the elm327 (ebay just saw one for under Ł10 i.e. about $15) will provide more data.

 

Elm327 is on the shopping list, I just got this crappy one to get me through the troubleshooting this weekend - I don't sit and wait too well

Any ideas on the best place to get schematics for the S Type's? I have a few things that aren't working, and my experience with Haynes manual's tells me I'm not going to get far with them. Alldata maybe? I used that for a LS1 conversion i did into my kit car and found it quite helpfull. Tell me now if all that i'm going to find are solid state controllers for everything?..it wouldn't surprise me at all.

As always, thanks for the input fellas.

 

Short version: just get it.

Long: use forum Search on
JTIS
workshop manual

and read widely.

 

sorry, old thread but did you ever get the comprehensive component test to complete? My p1000 wont go away and that is the only monitor holding it up. Thanks!

 

Is there a way to clear codes yourself?

 

Post #13 or there's an entire thread in one of the other forums here (General Tech maybe) - may be a link from the FAQs.

BUT... why do you want to clear them? They self-clear if the cause is fixed. What have you fixed?

 

Havent fixed me codes yet... Just wanted to kno could i wen i did... Dont want a 125.00 visit to the jag shop... If shops cant find a problem.... They make one

 

Do the fix & the code(s) clear. No need for a shop visit.