Park brake fault
#1
10-08-2021, 09:14 AM
#2
10-08-2021, 09:27 AM
Veteran Member
It is difficult to make recommendations not knowing your DIY skill level, but you have indicated two of the three usual suspects that indicate a low battery voltage situation. Your appear to be in Tucson, which certainly exposes your battery to extremes of temperature. Do you have a multimeter that you can use to test the battery voltage and report back to us? If not, most auto parts stores will test your battery at no charge.
Last edited by S-Type Owner; 10-09-2021 at 09:22 AM.
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Paula Vecchiarelli (10-08-2021)
#3
10-08-2021, 10:28 AM
Could be a bad battery..also the Park Brake Module Actuator could be faulty...Do you hear the park brake motor when park brake is engaged?.... The Park Brake Module Actuator mounts to the rear subframe...You need to to take to a competent mechanic..You need a hoist to complete the job properly.
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Paula Vecchiarelli (10-08-2021)
#4
10-08-2021, 10:43 AM
Veteran Member
Me thinks you're not the first person to have this slew of faults:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...attery-193787/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...attery-193787/
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Paula Vecchiarelli (10-08-2021)
#5
10-08-2021, 07:38 PM
My battery was dead this morning, jumped it to get to work. Came out of a 9 hour day and it was dead again. Went to AutoZone and had the battery tested. It was bad. Replaced it, but now what I need to know is how long does it take the computer to rest those lights that are on my dash (the ones listed in my beginning post)?
#6
10-09-2021, 01:56 AM
Veteran Member
#7
10-09-2021, 09:15 AM
Veteran Member
Hi Paula,
These messages should clear themselves right away once the underlying cause is corrected. You may have fallen into that gray zone where you've fixed A fault, but not necessarily THE fault. Some things to consider:
For the fault messages you're seeing, the most common cause is low prestart voltage. There are other possibilities (bad actuator, wheel speed sensor, etc.), but I'd concentrate on low prestart voltage first because it is easy to rule out, and you've already mentioned a failed/discharged battery.
Your new battery may not have been fully charged at the time of purchase. Few are. Don't rely on the alternator to have charged it. Hook up an automatic charger overnight and see if that helps. This is a very important prerequisite for any electrical troubleshooting, so please don't skip this important step.
Your charging system may not be up to snuff, and may have contributed to the demise of the battery. After charging your new battery (Gee, he seems obsessed with that...), test the alternator output. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and start the engine. You should see around 14.5v for the first few minutes, tapering off around 13.5 after a bit.
Further down the troubleshooting tree is to check for an electrical drain running down the battery overnight. This is why I keep harping to charge the battery first (There he goes again, he must be a lot of fun at parties...) and see if that helps. If so, you'll need to figure out why the battery is running down when left to its own devices. This could either be an external drain or a bad battery. Since the battery is new, it would be rare for it to have failed so quickly, but that's not impossible. The more likely cause is an external drain.
These messages should clear themselves right away once the underlying cause is corrected. You may have fallen into that gray zone where you've fixed A fault, but not necessarily THE fault. Some things to consider:
For the fault messages you're seeing, the most common cause is low prestart voltage. There are other possibilities (bad actuator, wheel speed sensor, etc.), but I'd concentrate on low prestart voltage first because it is easy to rule out, and you've already mentioned a failed/discharged battery.
Your new battery may not have been fully charged at the time of purchase. Few are. Don't rely on the alternator to have charged it. Hook up an automatic charger overnight and see if that helps. This is a very important prerequisite for any electrical troubleshooting, so please don't skip this important step.
Your charging system may not be up to snuff, and may have contributed to the demise of the battery. After charging your new battery (Gee, he seems obsessed with that...), test the alternator output. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and start the engine. You should see around 14.5v for the first few minutes, tapering off around 13.5 after a bit.
Further down the troubleshooting tree is to check for an electrical drain running down the battery overnight. This is why I keep harping to charge the battery first (There he goes again, he must be a lot of fun at parties...) and see if that helps. If so, you'll need to figure out why the battery is running down when left to its own devices. This could either be an external drain or a bad battery. Since the battery is new, it would be rare for it to have failed so quickly, but that's not impossible. The more likely cause is an external drain.
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S-Type Owner (10-09-2021)
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#8
10-09-2021, 09:24 AM
OK, so the park brake fault light is off, my brake light vis off & the ABS light is off. I will check the charging system with a voltmeter (my husband is an electrician) and double check the voltage. I really appreciate this forum so much, my fellow enthusiasts never let me down. Thanks again, I hope you all have a wonderful day!! 
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S-Type Owner (10-10-2021)
#9
10-09-2021, 09:39 AM
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#10
10-12-2021, 08:35 AM
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#11
10-16-2021, 11:54 AM
#12
10-17-2021, 09:11 AM
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