Park brake fault C1D10
#1
12-15-2016, 02:29 PM
Park brake fault C1D10
I have a 2005 S type 2.7 twin turbo diesel last four months have had the dreaded electronic park brake fault where it sticks on and will not release,I have gone through the whole re calibrate scene hundreds of times,but once the vehicle sits unused for hourvor so the problem comes back,have renewed the battery,same thing,then the module,same thing,replaced both handbrake cables and rear brake pads,serviced the pistons on calipers and it lasted two weeks nearly,fault code reads C1D10 which I'm led to believe is over current to the park brake motor,anybody else had or know anything about this problem,any help gratefully acknowledged
#2
12-15-2016, 02:34 PM
Welcome to the forum Dave,
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
#3
12-15-2016, 02:48 PM
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#4
12-19-2016, 04:56 AM
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EPB really is binding . . . or is it a false code?
Like [JagV8], I believe your symptoms suggest a binding issue, so have you checked underneath while helper turns key? Also, tell us how you derived and diagnosed the C1D10 fault code. Then, report your measured standing battery voltage.
Why? . . . humour me Dave, coz same faults saw me almost walk away from buying my somewhat newer model year and magnificently Concours condition S-Type TTD variant. I stood by, unable to test drive it, as NON-Jaguar selling dealer trailered car off to Jaguar who replaced everything you have . . . but, when I returned a week later to test drive and haggle . . . all the same faults, the warning messages and orange mil instantly re-appeared. I negotiated an "as is" bargain price, drove off, dumped the near new battery for a top-of-line Varta H3 Silver (as recommended by Jaguar) and instantly saw faults vanish, never to return.
Lesson #1 - these cars, and particularly the 2.7L TTD are hyper-sensitive to standing battery voltage. It pays to know that these have an even higher rated CCA requirement than the V8 STRs . . . and no excuse for not using the ETM facility on these cars. My sneaky peek at 12.2V via ETM while salesman was bleeding down the phone to Jaguar, gave me confidence mine probably never had an EPB issue - it had a battery issue!
Lesson #2 - new batteries are rarely sold fully charged . . . and any voltage reading below 12.6V after at least 12hours off charger is doomed. Also, be aware that battery failure, even among "brand new" units is not unknown . . . perhaps not common, but reported here on several occasions. The only surety is to measure it!
Lesson #3 - battery longevity and reliability in these cars, unless driven daily, must be maintained by using a smart charger or battery maintainer that remains permanently connected unless the car is being driven. Doing so, battery life of at least 8-10 years may be expected. Not doing so will soon (1) lock you out (2) allow you to start car but display fault sequence of EPB Failure, Cruise Not Available, Transmission Limp Mode, ABS Failure etc - all false - and (3) generally frighten the life out of you with promises of financial ruin!
So, if you have replaced all you report, and you have checked that there are no binding issues of actuator or of cables . . . and yet, the problem re-appears . . . read up on Battery 101 for S-Types in the Stickies "How To . . " and please check your actual standing battery voltage.
Best wishes and keep us posted,
Ken
Why? . . . humour me Dave, coz same faults saw me almost walk away from buying my somewhat newer model year and magnificently Concours condition S-Type TTD variant. I stood by, unable to test drive it, as NON-Jaguar selling dealer trailered car off to Jaguar who replaced everything you have . . . but, when I returned a week later to test drive and haggle . . . all the same faults, the warning messages and orange mil instantly re-appeared. I negotiated an "as is" bargain price, drove off, dumped the near new battery for a top-of-line Varta H3 Silver (as recommended by Jaguar) and instantly saw faults vanish, never to return.
Lesson #1 - these cars, and particularly the 2.7L TTD are hyper-sensitive to standing battery voltage. It pays to know that these have an even higher rated CCA requirement than the V8 STRs . . . and no excuse for not using the ETM facility on these cars. My sneaky peek at 12.2V via ETM while salesman was bleeding down the phone to Jaguar, gave me confidence mine probably never had an EPB issue - it had a battery issue!
Lesson #2 - new batteries are rarely sold fully charged . . . and any voltage reading below 12.6V after at least 12hours off charger is doomed. Also, be aware that battery failure, even among "brand new" units is not unknown . . . perhaps not common, but reported here on several occasions. The only surety is to measure it!
Lesson #3 - battery longevity and reliability in these cars, unless driven daily, must be maintained by using a smart charger or battery maintainer that remains permanently connected unless the car is being driven. Doing so, battery life of at least 8-10 years may be expected. Not doing so will soon (1) lock you out (2) allow you to start car but display fault sequence of EPB Failure, Cruise Not Available, Transmission Limp Mode, ABS Failure etc - all false - and (3) generally frighten the life out of you with promises of financial ruin!
So, if you have replaced all you report, and you have checked that there are no binding issues of actuator or of cables . . . and yet, the problem re-appears . . . read up on Battery 101 for S-Types in the Stickies "How To . . " and please check your actual standing battery voltage.
Best wishes and keep us posted,
Ken
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#5
12-19-2016, 05:12 AM
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Just re-read Dave's post . . . and realized I mis-read it. You have replaced the Control Module, cables, pads etc, but NOT yet replaced the actuator, which is where the over-current fault code is pointing. Not suggesting you rush to do so until all other checks completed - one fiendishly expensive component out here.
Cheers,
Ken
Cheers,
Ken