"When a PATS fault is apparent, the instrument cluster will store a DTC and indicate this to the customer by illuminating the LED in the following manner. The LED will be illuminated for 60 seconds (flashing for customer fault codes, continuous for non-customer fault codes); the LED will then be extinguished for 2.5 seconds. The first digit of the fault code will then be flashed. The total LED 'on/off' time per single flash will be one second, this being repeated for the relevant number of times to count the first digit. The LED is then off for a further 1.5 seconds before the second digit of the fault code is flashed, again the total 'on/off' time per single flash will be one second with the number of repeats being the second digit (see Fig. 2 below). The fault code flash routine will be repeated up to 10 times. The indication will stop immediately if the ignition is turned to 'OFF' at any time during the fault indication sequence. (Note: Only the highest priority fault code will be flashed)."

So it's solid for 60 seconds and then does a 2-4. In the PATs diagnostic floating around the codes only go up to 2-3 and 2002 MY. I've investigated many sites and posts about no crank conditions and that lead me here. Is this something I find from the dealership only?

 

Best use IDS/SDD to read the actual code(s).

 

Both acronym result in a search of "very expensive dealership tool". Or something like that.

There's a reason it flashes a code and surely that's readily available as the 2002 MY and I think I have a bookmark for a site with some of those dealership info dumps. All of this complex flashing and beeping and warning lights should be like a big signal pointing to something. Maybe in the future it will just use it's voice and tell us but for now it's morse code and patterns of absent modules from the PCM.

It's impossibly hard to tow a car that doesn't come out of "P" and I'm not sure yet that this is a deal breaker. It hasn't passed smog yet and is already threatening to cost me $500-2000 for the dealership to have it. It may become an expensive toy to look at and sit when I need a timeout.

I remain hopeful it's an easy fix once this elusive fix is finally discovered.

 

I posted the 2003MY on codes in the other thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e-16-a-189843/
they only go to 23 though.

 

Codes 24,25,27,29 all look to be RCM-related so 26 is likely to be and is not likely (*) to be disabling crank.

I suggest not attempting to tow the car using the driven wheels, so there's no need to defeat the Park interlock (which can be done if you wish and there are posts about it).

(*) English lingo for "highly unlikely or definitely isn't"

 

Major typo on my end and had to edit my post. The code is 2 and 4 or 24. Do you have something for that?

 

RCM internal fault.

I think it'll need replacing (if its wiring etc is OK). Any working one with the same label will do.

Not stopping car cranking, I reckon.

 

Restraint Control Module? That's what I see looking at the 2006 wiring diagrams.

A couple of cautions here:

Be careful starting multiple threads for the same basic no-crank condition. Before you know it, the information is scattered in multiple locations and stuff gets missed. I'd suggest sticking to one thread.

Fault codes pointing to various modules aren't always the modules themselves. An internal fault code, perhaps. But if you get one for no communication from a module, that could be as simple as a blown fuse or loose connection. That is far more common than an actual module failure. It's easy to go into FullPanicMode™ and assume the most expensive component is always at fault, but that is rarely the case from my experience.

/Soapbox Mode Off

JagV8, do you have a link to these PATS fault codes? All the ones I've seen only go up to 23. I'd like to read more. Thanks for all your input.

 

They're a bit scattered but start with http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...s/620 3_04.pdf

 

I noticed you're sometimes in Phoenix.

Please tell me you have all of the high cost scanning tools and can play mobile mechanic and reprogram ECM's.

Jk, as if anyone needs another cars problems to worry about

 

Sadly not.

 

I was looking through this training guide some more. Not 100% sure, but for flashing out restraint system fault codes, I now think they are talking about the little airbag symbol on the instrument panel, not the red PATS indicator on top of the dash.

If so, that puts us back to square one for deciphering code 24 on the PATS indicator, and whether this has any effect on the no-crank condition.

 

Good thinking - and I suspect you're right.

The main PATS codes just do not seem to include 24
e.g. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...l 02-20-02.pdf

Makes a lot more sense to use a proper tool to read all the modules and figure out what the overall situation is. My suspicion is a lot of fake codes due to low power that may all need clearing (after careful logging) and then see what flags.

 

Hmm, I can't two and can't clear codes unless I spend $500 on tools so that may have to wait.

Let me program my key to only unlock drivers door (hold both lock and unlock for 3 seconds) and then double check the code to absolutely make sure I'm not simply lacking in memory.

I think an ECM failure or PATS failure would be something that shows up on the console along with Parking Brake etc. That said, I'm used to using Chilton's repair manual but they don't have Jaguar. I found one online called Workshop and Repair Manual for $30. Is that what everyone is using? It's been a few years and the manuals I'm seeing for download don't feel like the step-by-step stuff. I came into this kind of expecting to be able to troubleshoot an error like this in a straightforward cliff notes style repair manual. Is there some other (open) source from Jaguar that is better? What is this JTIS...
S-type manual

 

Doesn't need to be anything like $500. More like $100-150

The Jag workshop etc manuals are all free downloads from this site.

 

Not necessarily. A computer only annunciates what it has been programmed to tell you. For example, emissions-related faults are considered high-priority (by law?) and typically made known via the check engine light. But a no-start, whether a mechanical issue or antitheft protection? The computer almost always knows why, but since there's no regulations mandating to tell you why, you're left to your own devices. A car that won't start isn't considered a pollution problem, so it falls outside the scope of emissions regulations.

That why most inexpensive scanners and code readers can only display P series codes, for emissions-related stuff. If you want to dig deeper, you'll need a scanner that can display other codes that aren't necessarily emissions-related. I only have a basic scanner myself.

If you want to go that route, you can get a good scanner under $150, as JagV8 has suggested. They aren't as pricey as you may have feared. But in the meantime, working on the cheap, I'm trying to steer you to do the click test (totally free!) on relay R20 for the starter. My logic is if this relay clicks, the starter operation hasn't been inhibited by the security system. That's why I'm not too worried about any security codes for the moment. My hunch is the relay won't click, but we can cross that bridge when we get to it.

 

That was my understanding also.

 

I may have found some relevant info on PATS code 24. See post #74 in this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...4/#post2169245

I'm also thinking we should let this thread go idle, and concentrate on that other thread. Dealing with overlapping threads can be enough to drive you crazy.