PCM Continuity tests
#1
PCM Continuity tests
Hello all,
I'm following JTIS steps on Solenoid SSA/B/C/D continuity tests on CONNECTOR GB5 against PCM GB1.
Before removing PCM CONNECTOR GB1, should the battery be disconnected?
Has anyone had problems after unplugging their PCM connectors, i.e. security, engine immobilised...??
Regards,
I'm following JTIS steps on Solenoid SSA/B/C/D continuity tests on CONNECTOR GB5 against PCM GB1.
Before removing PCM CONNECTOR GB1, should the battery be disconnected?
Has anyone had problems after unplugging their PCM connectors, i.e. security, engine immobilised...??
Regards,
#2
I'd disconnect at the battery. Once it's off you can't get security/etc issues as there's no power! (Whereas leaving it connected is a risk of shorts etc.) They have to be built to cope with no battery as it's a normal occurrence.
Afterwards, you'll have to reset the one-touch windows and either input or bypass any radio code.
Afterwards, you'll have to reset the one-touch windows and either input or bypass any radio code.
#3
JagV8,
Thanks - testing performed successfully. Continuity correct.
D/C Battery - removed GB1 PLUG. Reconnected battery.
To reach PCM remove windscreen cowl, air filter (4 nuts) and plastic relief-tray beneath (3 nuts). See image.
For anyone's reference, i've attached the data sheet we used since JTIS method produced zero results.
This was really simple - just D/C fuse 106 (15 Amp) on Front Distribution Box and test between output and GB1 plug (1 metre apart). This saves you from crawling beneath vehicle to remove Transmission Plug GB5 - Nightmare.
I'm safe in the knowledge my electrical components are sound which leads me to a faulty PCM or internal damage.
Or the fact we now think the engine is loosing pressure. Next.
Thanks - testing performed successfully. Continuity correct.
D/C Battery - removed GB1 PLUG. Reconnected battery.
To reach PCM remove windscreen cowl, air filter (4 nuts) and plastic relief-tray beneath (3 nuts). See image.
For anyone's reference, i've attached the data sheet we used since JTIS method produced zero results.
This was really simple - just D/C fuse 106 (15 Amp) on Front Distribution Box and test between output and GB1 plug (1 metre apart). This saves you from crawling beneath vehicle to remove Transmission Plug GB5 - Nightmare.
I'm safe in the knowledge my electrical components are sound which leads me to a faulty PCM or internal damage.
Or the fact we now think the engine is loosing pressure. Next.
#4
#5
#6
Yes, immediately noticed spider-webs and the area covered in a fine dust - no water has been there (even though previous owner had a 3-headed-dog fit the windscreen - finger gaps on seal). There's also an angled aperture surrounding plugs.
The relief-tray also has fibrous backing to "sponge" any stray water - quite a neat touch.
For a spare hour, this test is definitely worth health-checking electrical transmission components.
Jagv8, we think the IMT Seals have gone, expect a post soon i guess.
The relief-tray also has fibrous backing to "sponge" any stray water - quite a neat touch.
For a spare hour, this test is definitely worth health-checking electrical transmission components.
Jagv8, we think the IMT Seals have gone, expect a post soon i guess.
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