So far the dealers have not been covering the transmission lines. The seep is at the metal rubber junction of the hose. Many threads on here about it. Current thinking is to cut the rubber section off and replace using hose clamps. Several people have done this and it would be worth a search or two to look at them.

Hopefully they will fix the axle seals.

That's a long drive for service? It might actually be cheaper for you to fix the axle seals yourself compared to driving 3 hours each way?
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You have to pop the axles out in order to do those two seals. The LH-side one is hard to do with the diff still in the car, I had to make my own SST to get the seal to seat properly. The RH one has a bit more space to work with though, so not too difficult to do that side.

 

GT42R can you explain SST?
Not sure what you are talking about?
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I'll bet it's a Seal Seating Tool, but maybe not!

 

special service tool, sorry, if you check JTIS instruction on axle seal replacement, they call for an SST axle seal tool as well.

 

You want us to read the manual!

 

Been on the phone going back n forth with the dealer I bought my car from about the axle seals and transmission lines leaking. Why are these high end dealers so cheap? They don't wanna fix or warranty anything. So annoying being how I just bought this car last week from them

 

you bought a used car from a high end dealership, you did not buy a warranty, therefore they are not going to warranty anything... its a used car,, your bargaining power was at its best right before purchase, right before you signed... it diminishes greatly from that point on....stop calling them, dont drive back, just go get it fixed, next time if you want a perfect car for sure , take the time to have someone check it out for you....

 

Thanks for the advice! However I'm a technician and have been for 16 years now. when I bought the car it came with a 30 day warranty. They assured me the car was perfect with zero problems. I didn't have a chance out of state to pull the car in a shop and look it over. Not to mention the huge snow storm we were having at the time I went to look at it. Anyway, I get the car home and pull it in the shop and that's when I noticed the leaks! But I love how people jump to conclusions before they know the facts!

 

well..... if you stated the FACTS first.... i would not have had conclusions to jump to... i was commenting on the information you provided....prior

 

Well after phone call upon phone call what we agreed to is this: They are buying me new transmission cooler lines, a couple pints of the trans fluid, and both rear axle seals. Sending me the parts and I will be doing the work myself! Saves me a 3 hour drive each way, fuel, tolls, etc. plus I know the work will be done right!

 

sounds like a win win good deal

 

Well they did meet you half way so not a total loss!

The lines are a SOB to install and don't even try it unless the car is on a lift. Most people have had to bend the metal section to install them and then try to straighten the lines out afterwards.

That's why cutting the rubber section out and replacing just that has been done. It looks like the factory crimp connections will almost always start to weep given enough time.

That's kind of odd too because I have had this type of connection on many cars without any weeping so I still don't know why these are so troublesome?

You do know how to check the trans fluid? It's critical.
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Not yet clubairth1. I've been a Toyota tech for a long time. I have several ASE's as well as being Expert level thru Toyota. I'm willing to tackle any job however these higher end cars are nothing like Toyotas or Hondas to work on! I will more than likely change the trans fluid at the same time I do the lines.

 

I checked All Data today on the trans cooler lines. Says 5.5 hours for the repair! Now wonder they offered me the parts to do this myself saving themselves the labor of paying one of their techs. Not to mention another 2.5 hours labor for the rear axle seals! Anyway, what flavor rear diff fluid do you guys use/recommend? Also what weight does the vehicle call for?

 

Nice !

 

This NGK number is no good?

 

It's NGK IFR5N10 - top of the line!

 

How about this one?
NGK BKR5EIX-11 IRIDIUM IX

 

They are quite similar in performance, but the IFR5N10 is expected to last up to 100k miles whereas the BKR5EIX has an expected range of 40-60k miles.

The IX plug is supposedly made of pure Iridium, while the other also contains platinum. Check here:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK...idium%20IX.pdf