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Pinhole Coolant Leak...help!

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  #21  
Old 01-05-2011, 05:14 PM
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I went ahead and had the dealer replace the plastic outlet pipe/t-stat housing... $93 for the part and $331 labor. They didn't charge me for an intake manifold gasket, so apparently they either re-used the gasket (not recommended by BRUTAL) or they didn't need to pull that off to install the outlet pipe... ?

Bob
 
  #22  
Old 01-06-2011, 02:48 PM
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Hmmmmmmm, thank for the tid-bit, interesting. Well I just received the two new intake gaskets and am now waiting for a new CD. I wonder what view Brutal has on that?
 
  #23  
Old 09-15-2011, 08:14 PM
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Question I cant find it in JTIS

I have a split along the top of the water outlet pipe (water rail and thermostat housing) and have ordered the part. JTIS however doesn't even mention how to replace this part - or I can't find it!!
Does anyone know if it is in JTIS?
Looks like you have to remove the complete throttle assembly and a whole load of other stuff. Most of the pipes you have to remove have those stupid hard to replace clamps - I guess I will replace with screw clamps.
 
  #24  
Old 09-16-2011, 01:25 AM
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See:
 
  #25  
Old 09-16-2011, 06:05 AM
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I guess you have ordered the hose assembly c/w thermostat housing?
If so it will come complete with new clips.

You will need to take off the top cover over the radiator and the air intake piping, other than that it is pretty straightforward. Probably about an hours work.
 
  #26  
Old 09-17-2011, 05:46 AM
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Default Leak

I did not have to remove the injection or throttle bodies or intake manifold. I took my new assembly and pulled off the t-stat housing and replaced that part only, contrary to other opinions. So I did not remove the manifold, and that's why another member was only charged $300,00 ore so from the dealer to repair his. I'm sure they did it the same way as I, or the price would have been much higher. Just be sure to lude the O-ring on the housing good before you slide it on to the old housing/pipe. Don't hesitate to e-mail me with any more questions. Good Luck.......it's not a hard repair. BTW- while I was there I replaced my serpentine belt and idler bearing.
 
  #27  
Old 09-17-2011, 06:24 AM
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The procedure depends on the engine which I why people ask for car details
 
  #28  
Old 09-17-2011, 08:26 AM
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Default Car & Engine

Failed to mention car/engine. 4.2 S-type 2003 Base
My problem is the part behind the therm housing - it is split all the way along a manufacturing seam - about 2" front to back! I have to replace the whole wierd looking part.
 
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  #29  
Old 09-17-2011, 09:25 AM
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Wow - that's very unlucky!

If it's expensive a breaker should have one. But try the forum sponsors first
 
  #30  
Old 09-17-2011, 08:11 PM
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Default Got the part - missing the JTIS info

I have the part coming soon - $70 + $35 to ship to Canada, but I can't find any instructions in JTIS on how to "remove and install" it.
I've searched on the Jag terms form JEPC - "thermostat and water outlet pipe" or just "outlet pipe" with zero result.
Do you know if it is covered in JTIS?
If not I guess I'll just have to wing it!
Thanks for responding
 
  #31  
Old 09-18-2011, 05:53 AM
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Default T/stat housing

Hey Carate,
No worries, that's the exact same engine and the exact same place mine leaked, and here's what to do. Take that little white tab off the back of the housing, don't break it. Then the pull the t/stat housing from the pipe with the four bolt holes. On your present engine you will leave the old pipe with the four bolt holes and slip the new t/stat housing onto that old pipe. When you pull the t/stat housing off you will see a large o-ring, lube that with a little coolant when you go to slide the new housing onto the old pipe. If you choose not to replace the entire part as shown, no there is not instructions on JTIS and the intake manifold has to be removed since you cannot get to the four bolts of the old pipe. If you go that route contact me since I have two brand new genuine Jaguar intake gaskets for that engine. Man I hope what I just wrote makes sense. Contact me with any questions.
 
  #32  
Old 09-18-2011, 10:37 AM
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A bit of information about those goofy hose clamps. I had to buy the correct tool but it made it SO much easier to get them on and off. There called cable clamp pliers. Really work great for those buried clamps because you can snake the cable in to get at the clamp but apply force remotely!!

 
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  #33  
Old 09-18-2011, 03:46 PM
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Smile Thanks all - I think I get it now!

Cobbler - thanks for the info. I believe your'e saying I can leave the bit circled in green (see pic) in tact and other than the 4 bolts for the "arms", I can slide the large tube housing into the old pipe - thus saving the lenghty dismantling of the intake manifold. Can you do this without removing any of the throttle assembly? I'm guessing yes.
I gained some time by filing the top of the big round thermostat housing and plastering it with a good 3/8 layer of JB-Weld - World's Finest Cold Weld. No leak so far after 200KM of highway driving!
Clubairth1 - thanks. I have a similar device from Princess Auto (Canada) along with a smaller plier style one. Its the small clamps with no tabs on or screws on the 1/2 inch pipes to the throttle body for example. Once you plier them off it seem almost impossible to get them back on.
 
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  #34  
Old 09-20-2011, 06:16 PM
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That is correct Carate and no dis-assembly of ant linkage is involved. Hope all goes well.
 
  #35  
Old 10-08-2011, 08:59 AM
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My plastic front pipe (2003 4.2 S) had two microscopic leaks. It lost about 8 ounces a week, but always would pass a pressure test, either hot or cold. It was quite frustrating to find. I replaced the plastic thermostat housing/front pipe last week...so far so good!

I had to remove the throttle body and the throttle body connection manifold to the intake manifold, but not the intake manifold itself.
 
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