A while ago i noticed whilst having the underbelly pan off that there was about an egg cup full of oil under the vehicle. Assumed was engine oil anyway cleaned it up and continued with my job of changing the transmission fluid. That was duly accomplished and then I noted that the oil that was dripping onto the floor was now red (different ATF used) so not engine oil but ATF. Leak is coming from join on bottom hose to and from cooler at the point near the aux belt. See attached picture. Question is how easy a fix is this or am I asking for trouble trying to fix myself? Sometimes there is only a few drops other times quite a bit. And one other quick question does anybody know what the pressure in this pipe is? Thanks

 

I looks like it's a swaged-on fitting. Do you know where on the fitting/hose the leak is originating?

Probably a new hose assembly is needed. Everything is so torturously located in modern cars that I expect getting one made is going to be pretty difficult but you might be able to get a hose shop to make one up using the old fittings.

It just kills me that with today's technology they still can't make this stuff bullet proof. I've got an oil cooling/pre/post lube system I installed on another car that I did over 20 tears ago using push-lock hose & fittings and with a carefully planned layout it's still fine with maybe just a drop or two once in a while. I know the pressures on the hose in the picture are higher but still.

Best of luck with this.

Bob S.

 

Trans cooler lines. They don't look that bad. Did you clean them off? I've seen them a hell of a lot worse then that. They are a pain to do, if your going to do them. You must have an 03 and up vehicle. The Xj350 with those lines are still a pain, but there is more room to do them. The Stype, especially V8 is a pain. I've seen them **** out fluid, but not cause any major issues, like shifting issues. The lines are pre-bent. If you do them yourself, have fun. Never done them on the ground, assuming you don't have a lift. Thank god your not doing them on the 98-03 XJ, because those are a bitch to do on a lift, you would be cussing up a storm.

 

Is that a V6? I'm trying to tell by the lower radiator hose. The V6 is still a bit of a pain, but a hell of lot eaiser then the v8 stype.

 

Wow! That sounds like a fun weekend project ... Is it better to just go ahead and get drunk before you start?

 

Agree with other posters. According to a dealer service tech, it is a major pain to do. Also, the only source I know of for the lines is the dealer / Jaguar parts supplier.

From what the tech explained, the cross member under the engine needs to come out. He said there is no way to "snake" the replacement lines in there without doing it. Other than that, it is pretty straight forward. All the work is getting a bunch of stuff out of the way. I know, because mine are "seeping". Not enough to leave any puddles or even drip marks. Only enough to look wet. The fact that yours are dripping enough to puddle would tell me that it was time to swap them out. Nothing worse than having a weak line burst while doing 70 down the highway. I'd be scared that it would pump out too much fluid before sensors and such shut her down, doing permanent damage to a very $$$ transmission.

Oh, I just noticed that you are located in the UK. Your odds of finding a competent shop that could help you is much greater than those of us located in the states... From what I understand, parts are more available and affordable there as well....

 

Hi

Thanks for the prompt replies guys.
Yes it is a swaged on fitting. You can possibly discern where it is leaking by the feint pink line running around the fitting. Its coming from where the pipe enters the fitting. I agree these things should last a lifetime, but they don't. At work we are always having to get such fittings remade. I am unsure what is under the braided portion. First thing that struck me was to cut the pipe and put some other sort of fitting on. It in some way depends on the pressure it is operating at. I am also led to believe that to replace will not be the easiest as its the lower one, the upper one can be got at with the bonnet, sorry hood, up. Also believe both flow and return are connected to a plate that fastens up to the transmission pan.
If anybody can hazard a guess as to what pressure the line is under I can go from there. I can get hoses made up through work and may go down this line, just accessing the lower hose/cooler connection will be the bummer.
Thanks

 

The hose assembly must get stressed too much or even bumped if the fitting itself has developed a leak.

Sounds like you're completely on top of it. Let us know how you fixed it.

Bob S.

 

The cross member does not have to come out. The steering rack has to undone. Engine mount nuts undone. The air box needs to come. Unless you have the right tools, the cooling system has to drains and bottom hose has to be taken off. I'm assuming this is a v8 of course. Then undo the lines at the top, jack up the engine. Bend the old lines and pull them out. The new lines have to in at the right angle. The can be tweaked a little bit but not to much. They are pretty much a pain to do on a lift.

 

that wud be a pain to do on the floor.. not a bad job to do on a lift.. a little trani fluid everywhere..

 

No it's the V6, with a bit of luck im hoping to replace either the fitting or manage to insert a piece to cover the leak. To do a swaged fitting I obviously will need to remove the pipe which is my biggest concern. Being the lower one access to where it screws into the transmission cooler looks awkward at best. Am going to ring ZF in the morning and enquire as to what the pipe pressure is meant to be.

 

If you can get them made up ! Why don't you get them made out of high pressure hose with just the correct fittings on the ends that way you can snake them in and route them where ever you want and just snap tie them off out the way

 

That is actually a great idea. If you can make up special lines, make a set that can go in easily and "cut' the old ones out.... Then sell me a set to replace mine...

 

Sounds easy! and it may be if problem was the top one but I cannot even see where the connection is made on the lower part of the rad.

 

They're made with pre-bent fittings and formed hose for a reason you know.
Sometimes you can get away with a straight piece as long as it's routed & secured properly and isn't chaffing.

Bob S.

 

Totally agree the pipes from the transmission pan to the swaged connectors are shaped to get the lines up and over the framework. The braided is used to route it to the radiator as easy to route being braided and then we have another swaged connection to the solid pipe that goes into the radiator. As its rather cold here, -10deg C, maybe nothing to some of you guys, I am in the process of using plan B, plan A was to cut the pipe and insert a replacement bit. Plan Bis to repair the current fitting.
If it gets me to spring great when I can look at the matter in more detail. Don't fancy being on my back in -10degC for too long
Will keep you posted. Oh and by the way I spoke with ZF yesterday who didn't know what pressure the lines are under but guessed at "not much". I would concur with that as I remember when I used to change the ATF on my Volvo 940. I did that by disconnecting the flow pipe from radiator and draining into a container with the engine running. The fluid flowed ok but one could see wasn't at any great pressure.

 

Well plan B has been completed. To make up a new pipe would have required removing the old one, not really an option at this time of year, so repair it is.
Solution was to clean joint from any trace of ATF, methylated spirits. Then I used a epoxy weld called here in UK "SUPER STEEL". It comes in two tubes which when portions are mixed starts to chemically react to form a solid bond. Well it appears to have done the job. I applied it around the joint and as a backup then applied tape called KRAKEN tape
a specialist type of self amalgamating tape. The tape job would have been neater if there had been room to get it around the pipe, the area is very restricted.
Have attached photos of the finished repair and the underbelly pan with additional oil absorbing cloth on it. Been out for a spin and there currently are no leaks.
Will check in a couple of weeks. In spring may effect a nicer looking repair. Plan is to cut original solid steel pipe and use a 13mm plumbing fitting, this size only available in France, will pick up on my next visit, as nearest UK size is 15mm. Steel pipe has OD of 12.7mm, near enough to 13mm.

Cheers guys.

 

Updated.

 

Well very nearly 6 months since I did the "temporary" repair. Had a look yesterday and all as in the last picture ie no leaks whatsoever. So am going to leave well alone.

 

Good news Bogart,

probably a good idea to keep an eye on it from time to time.