Please help jaguar s type engine failsafe mode on and off
#21
04-08-2010 | 06:19 PM
I will let people know what its like in the long run if it lasts a year i will be happy the pipe is safe for 250psi more than the system puts through the pipe and also its for harsh liquids such as petrol so i think it will last a wile.
If it leaks its not the end of the world worth a try after all the jagaur pipe rubbed through burst and leaked out
If it leaks its not the end of the world worth a try after all the jagaur pipe rubbed through burst and leaked out
#22
04-08-2010 | 06:32 PM
thanks it was a lucky fix the pedal but i always had a feeling it was that from the feel and noise of the pedal itself
Will update on the air con had no air con before if it lasts 6 months i will be happy nothing to loose
#23
04-09-2010 | 07:26 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 976
Likes: 69
From: Leeds, UK.
Re. using rubber in A/C systems; it shouldn't be too difficult using the web as a research tool to find out if Freon gas and rubber are compatible or not. Mind you... you have to be sure it's really rubber and not something else. It could be a soft plastic rubber 'look-alike'. Or it might be butyl rubber which seems to be able to stand anything including hot soldering irons. That's right, gen. butyl rubber will not melt even with your Weller hard up against it. Not cheap though.
Leedsman.
Leedsman.
#24
04-10-2010 | 05:36 AM
Re. using rubber in A/C systems; it shouldn't be too difficult using the web as a research tool to find out if Freon gas and rubber are compatible or not. Mind you... you have to be sure it's really rubber and not something else. It could be a soft plastic rubber 'look-alike'. Or it might be butyl rubber which seems to be able to stand anything including hot soldering irons. That's right, gen. butyl rubber will not melt even with your Weller hard up against it. Not cheap though.
Leedsman.
Leedsman.
Thanks for the info very helpful Thats what im looking for
#28
04-11-2010 | 06:24 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 976
Likes: 69
From: Leeds, UK.
Do I think this is an OK fix? Only time will tell. My question would be, "am I risking $1000 here, or am I risking $20? And, will a failure cause a breakdown?
Leedsman.
nb. re. the refrigerant, simply Google that and rubber and see what you get. The only really different one is ammonia (NH3), commonly used in absorption types. (No motor, just a heater, favored in silent gas-operated 'fridges).
Leedsman.
nb. re. the refrigerant, simply Google that and rubber and see what you get. The only really different one is ammonia (NH3), commonly used in absorption types. (No motor, just a heater, favored in silent gas-operated 'fridges).
#29
04-11-2010 | 07:47 PM
Thanks for the infomation.
Will keep posting the results.
Had a cuple of good days weather allready and managed to give it a good test it has 2x 12oz tins of gaz inside aswell as oil and seems to be working well.
I keep checking the pressures and have marked the pipes where there fitted to check for any slipping off or movement and all seems fine. cannot see any leaks pressures are the same no movement.
Im not sure but from what i can find on the net i would say it could do with abit more air con gas but as its working well i would rather leave it for a while if the fix stays working i will get it filled at an air con service station near me. Seems to be doing them for only Ł25.00 now
I also noticed that two of the pipes on the system is atually made of rubber also before anyone says im not saying i can garantee mine wont rot through as yet.
Yes the gas is not freon and about the damage costs.
Because of the year of the car its not worth paying someone to fit the correct pipe the car had no air con working when i got it and if it does brake it then it will be back to the same problem again.
If the compressor is running with 2oz of oil and gas how likely is it to be damaged i would of forght that having oil to it would be the main thing.
I will post again in a new days to let you know how its going as i said if it keeps the pressure i will take it and have it serviced vacumed and filled.
Again sorry for spelling as mentioned no good at it never have been.
Will keep posting the results.
Had a cuple of good days weather allready and managed to give it a good test it has 2x 12oz tins of gaz inside aswell as oil and seems to be working well.
I keep checking the pressures and have marked the pipes where there fitted to check for any slipping off or movement and all seems fine. cannot see any leaks pressures are the same no movement.
Im not sure but from what i can find on the net i would say it could do with abit more air con gas but as its working well i would rather leave it for a while if the fix stays working i will get it filled at an air con service station near me. Seems to be doing them for only Ł25.00 now
I also noticed that two of the pipes on the system is atually made of rubber also before anyone says im not saying i can garantee mine wont rot through as yet.
Yes the gas is not freon and about the damage costs.
Because of the year of the car its not worth paying someone to fit the correct pipe the car had no air con working when i got it and if it does brake it then it will be back to the same problem again.
If the compressor is running with 2oz of oil and gas how likely is it to be damaged i would of forght that having oil to it would be the main thing.
I will post again in a new days to let you know how its going as i said if it keeps the pressure i will take it and have it serviced vacumed and filled.
Again sorry for spelling as mentioned no good at it never have been.
#30
06-15-2012 | 04:19 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Shropshire
Hi can anyone tell me how I remove/replace the two A.C pipes that run from the engine bay to the bulkhead on a S-type V6 (-2002 model)
I have undone all the couplings and retaining brackets but it still seems impossible to wriggle the pipes past engine, exhaust, steering column etc .. !
Can anyone tell me an easy way ? or does it mean getting the engine out! :0
Andy - Whitchurch, Shrops.
I have undone all the couplings and retaining brackets but it still seems impossible to wriggle the pipes past engine, exhaust, steering column etc .. !
Can anyone tell me an easy way ? or does it mean getting the engine out! :0
Andy - Whitchurch, Shrops.
#31
06-26-2012 | 02:50 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Wellington
Hello i have a 1999 jaguar s type 3.0v6 petrol auto.
I have had it around 8 months and its been fine
when i bought the car the engine failsafe mode come on 2-3 times in 20 mins i forght as its been stud a sensor might be damp.
I carryed on driving for 2.5 hours and never come on again ran fine. In the 8 months of having it i saw it come on 2-3 times only when it was wet mostly but not often at all.
In the last month its comming on 2-3 times a day there is no feeling its on apart from the limet of power
I have noticed it comes on mostly around corners and going and setting off around hills. i have also find out that when it does come on can be when i try slightly speeding up when its gone into 5th at about 45mph but does not always do this eather.
I have noticed also that when it does come on if i keep my throttle in the same place it will stay on all the time and as soon as i move throttle 2-3 secounds later its gone. I tryed setting the cruse control at the speed its on and it seemed to go straght off.
I have cleaned throttle body was not bad anyway iv replaced the throttle position sensor also cleaned the air flow sensor air filter ect.
I have a machine that plugs into my laptop for car ecu codes and faults and it does not log any codes even done this while the failsafe mode has been on while driving.
Car seems to drive and run fine apart from this message.
I have never got it to come on while ticking over or reving it in N.
All im thinking now is throttle body faulty or throttle itself as it does make a creaking noise when pushing it down. Is this a sign its warn.
Can someone please give me any infomation as to what to try next should i replace the trottle? could it be something totally different? how do i get some fault codes?
I have took the throttle off a and blown it out with a compressor that seemed to fix it for about 1 day but i cannot be sure that was why it went away for a day.
Thanks in advance
I have had it around 8 months and its been fine
when i bought the car the engine failsafe mode come on 2-3 times in 20 mins i forght as its been stud a sensor might be damp.
I carryed on driving for 2.5 hours and never come on again ran fine. In the 8 months of having it i saw it come on 2-3 times only when it was wet mostly but not often at all.
In the last month its comming on 2-3 times a day there is no feeling its on apart from the limet of power
I have noticed it comes on mostly around corners and going and setting off around hills. i have also find out that when it does come on can be when i try slightly speeding up when its gone into 5th at about 45mph but does not always do this eather.
I have noticed also that when it does come on if i keep my throttle in the same place it will stay on all the time and as soon as i move throttle 2-3 secounds later its gone. I tryed setting the cruse control at the speed its on and it seemed to go straght off.
I have cleaned throttle body was not bad anyway iv replaced the throttle position sensor also cleaned the air flow sensor air filter ect.
I have a machine that plugs into my laptop for car ecu codes and faults and it does not log any codes even done this while the failsafe mode has been on while driving.
Car seems to drive and run fine apart from this message.
I have never got it to come on while ticking over or reving it in N.
All im thinking now is throttle body faulty or throttle itself as it does make a creaking noise when pushing it down. Is this a sign its warn.
Can someone please give me any infomation as to what to try next should i replace the trottle? could it be something totally different? how do i get some fault codes?
I have took the throttle off a and blown it out with a compressor that seemed to fix it for about 1 day but i cannot be sure that was why it went away for a day.
Thanks in advance
I have this problem the day I was driving back from Auckland to Wellington (460k plus) after I bought my 2000 Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6.
It stop in a certain time or engine condition.
After reading some comments here, majority would say, clean the throttle body etc etc, actually it's just 2% of the problem, done this done that.
Squicky clean throttle but the problem keeps appearing to my dashboard.
Here;s the answer to the FAILSAFE ENGINE MODE:
Replace the Accelerator (gas) pedal, after scan and scan again after replace (to erase the message).
The company called The Toy Shop (thetoyshop.co.nz) (we created their website) happen to be specializing Jaguar and they sell genuine parts too, exactly what they did to my car, ebay.co.uk sell Accelerator pedal.
The FAILSAFE ENGINE MODE is NOT got to do with the engine, its got to do with the connector of the Accelerator pedal connector and the computer.
The ECU is not reading what the accelerator pedal's command and so the ECU is sending an error message.
Like a cellfone without signal though your celfone is on but you can't send a txt or call, like to the engine, it is running but you can't move or it slow's you down incase you're driving 100k/per hr.
Hope this would help to those looking for an answer in regards to FAILSAFE Engine mode message for Jaguar, you can DIY it if you have an OBD scanner, I don't think (personally) if it's worth to buy a scanner.
#32
06-26-2012 | 09:26 AM
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,854
Likes: 4,578
From: Yorkshire, England
#33
06-26-2012 | 10:41 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,390
Likes: 194
From: Akron, Ohio USA
Here;s the answer to the FAILSAFE ENGINE MODE:
Replace the Accelerator (gas) pedal, after scan and scan again after replace (to erase the message).
The FAILSAFE ENGINE MODE is NOT got to do with the engine, its got to do with the connector of the Accelerator pedal connector and the computer.
The ECU is not reading what the accelerator pedal's command and so the ECU is sending an error message.
Like a cellfone without signal though your celfone is on but you can't send a txt or call, like to the engine, it is running but you can't move or it slow's you down incase you're driving 100k/per hr.
Hope this would help to those looking for an answer in regards to FAILSAFE Engine mode message for Jaguar, you can DIY it if you have an OBD scanner, I don't think (personally) if it's worth to buy a scanner.
Replace the Accelerator (gas) pedal, after scan and scan again after replace (to erase the message).
The FAILSAFE ENGINE MODE is NOT got to do with the engine, its got to do with the connector of the Accelerator pedal connector and the computer.
The ECU is not reading what the accelerator pedal's command and so the ECU is sending an error message.
Like a cellfone without signal though your celfone is on but you can't send a txt or call, like to the engine, it is running but you can't move or it slow's you down incase you're driving 100k/per hr.
Hope this would help to those looking for an answer in regards to FAILSAFE Engine mode message for Jaguar, you can DIY it if you have an OBD scanner, I don't think (personally) if it's worth to buy a scanner.
What you call FAILSAFE mode is also called "LIMP mode" and can be triggered by the ECM for many different reasons. Yes, one of them can be the accelerator pedal. But so can many other things. Also, the accelerator pedal components are not cheap, so you are telling people to buy parts that many times they will not need.
Also, the most common fault is still the throttle body NOT the accelerator pedal.
Lastly, one of the essential tools for ANY modern car is a scan tool. I even have my old scan tools from pre-OBD II cars. Now, the proper use is another story... but the only way to properly diagnose any modern car is to read the inputs to the ECM. Now, you could use some basic test equipment and pull every sensor and signal device and test it. You could also guess and replace every component that could be the cause of an issue... see where my sarcasm is going...
Just plug in a scanner, see where it thinks the faults are then start testing....
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (03-17-2015)
#35
07-19-2012 | 11:23 AM
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,854
Likes: 4,578
From: Yorkshire, England
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JOsworth (07-19-2012)
#36
03-13-2015 | 09:21 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
From: Port Macquarie ,Australia
Throttle pedal with 'engine fail safe mode' disply
Hi all, I have a 2000 S Type 3.0lt Auto, with 140K. engine. (fail safe mode displayed). Here's a simple D.I.Y. to confirm if it's throttle pedal problem.
a/ Take vehicle on highway for a short drive (20min)
b/ Put cruise control ON, and select a comfortable speed. This will disable your foot pedal, as your cruise inputs are controlled by the computer. Your
warning light will NOT come on. If you touch your pedal to override,
then warning light will immediately show.
also.. Another confirmation.
a/ Enter vehicle and turn ignition on but don't start engine. Simply touch throttle a bit, and wallah ,you should see warning displayed. You now have to replace the potentiometer on your throttle pedal. E bay have plenty of them
from GB. for under $100AU postage included. Stay away from dealerships or you will get STUNG.
a/ Take vehicle on highway for a short drive (20min)
b/ Put cruise control ON, and select a comfortable speed. This will disable your foot pedal, as your cruise inputs are controlled by the computer. Your
warning light will NOT come on. If you touch your pedal to override,
then warning light will immediately show.
also.. Another confirmation.
a/ Enter vehicle and turn ignition on but don't start engine. Simply touch throttle a bit, and wallah ,you should see warning displayed. You now have to replace the potentiometer on your throttle pedal. E bay have plenty of them
from GB. for under $100AU postage included. Stay away from dealerships or you will get STUNG.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (03-17-2015)
#37
03-13-2015 | 02:34 PM
Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 65
Likes: 11
From: fishtoft
OP, there is a very good Jag independent just to the south of Lincoln near the Canwick Road. Don't want to name them here and get in trouble because of some board etiquette but a quick web search should find them. they are a lot cheaper than the Jag dealer in town, it is run by 2 Jag techs with years of experience.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
#39
03-14-2015 | 11:30 AM
Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 65
Likes: 11
From: fishtoft
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (03-17-2015)
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