Hi Folks,

I have read many threads on here as I am a relatively new Jag owner with only moderate DIY abilities - thanks to all who contributed info.

Below is a set of maintenance activities, parts #s and some questions I have about performing maintenance on my 2002 S Type 3.0 V6.

Thanks in advance for any assistance folks here can provide. I'll clean up this post once questions are sorted so that others may find it useful.

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Jaguar S Type, 2002, 3.0 V6, VIN#M36305, ~95,000 miles

Problem Condition / Symptoms:
- P0305 code: misfire on cylinder 5
- P0171 code: Fuel System Too Lean (Bank 1)
- P0174 code: Fuel System Too Lean (Bank 2)
- sputtering / misfiring 1200 - 2500 rpm
- hesitation on initial accelleration
- blinking Check Engine Light on heavy acceleration (more noticeable pulling up a hill)
- exhaust / burnt oil smell in cabin on heavy acceleration
- oil stains on exhaust manifold, passenger side
- oil build up on lower side rear intake manifold tuner valve

Maintenance Activity:
- replace all Coils
- replace all Plugs
- replace Intake Manifold Control Valve o-rings
- replace breather elbow
- replace fuel filter
- possibly replace valve cover gaskets

TOTAL COST FOR PARTS: $360

Additional fluids, cleaners, etc:
MAF Cleaner
Throttle Body Cleaner
Silicone Lubricant
Dielectric Grease
Anti Seize Compound


Part: Ignition Coils
Why change? Fix the misfire, changing them all just to be safe and get it all done at once.
Jag Part #: C2S42673 / XR8042741 (seems to be 2 part numbers)
Other Part #: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # FD496
Quantity: 6
Source: RockAuto.com
Price: $35 each; $210 total
Instructions: Jaguar HELP!: Intake manifold in a 2002 S-type 3.0L
Notes: None.


Part: Spark Plugs
Why change? Help with misfire, easier to change now while manifold is off.
Jag Part #: C2S46895
Other Part #: NGK Iridium TR55IX ... OR ... NGK Laser Platinum ITR5F-13
Quantity: 6
Source: RockAuto.com
Price: $7 each; $42 Total ... OR ... $10 each; $60 Total
Instructions: same as coils reference
Notes: None.


Part: Upper Intake Manifold Gaskets
Why change? Because you have to when removing the manifold.
Jag Part #: XR843536 (individual)
Other Part #: FEL-PRO Part # MS96485
Quantity: 6 individual or 1 set of 6
Source: RockAuto.com
Price: $10 each for Jaguar part # or $12 set of 6 Fel Pro
Instructions: same as coils reference
Notes: Thanks to George aka androulakis for confirming the Lincoln parts are compatible in this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ars-faq-37066/


Part: Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets
Why change? Because you have to when removing the manifold.
Jag Part #: XR843533 (individual)
Other Part #: FEL-PRO Part # MS96494
Quantity: 6 individual or 1 set of 6
Source: RockAuto.com
Price: $15 each for Jaguar part # or $8 set of 6 Fel Pro
Instructions: same as coils reference
Notes: Thanks to George aka androulakis for confirming the Lincoln parts are compatible in this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-15/confirmed-crossed-referenced-ford-parts-work-our-jaguars-faq-37066/


Part: Intake Manifold Control Valve O-Rings
Why change? The original Jaguar parts are known to leak, help with misfire, fix the oil leak that may be causing burning oil smell in cabin on accelleration, cheap part, easy to do when manifold off.
Jag Part #: C2S40669
Other Part #: NA, will use Jag part #
Quantity: 2
Source: TBD. Jag dealership?
Price: $3 each; $6 Total
Instructions: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-32135/
Notes: None.


Part: Breather Elbow
Why change? The original Jaguar parts are known to break, address vacuum leak issues, cheap part, easy to do when manifold off.
Jag Part #: XR845730
Other Part #: Lincoln Part #3W4Z-6767-CA
Quantity: 1
Source: TBD
Price: ~$10
Instructions: JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Notes: None.


Part: Throttle Body Gasket
Why change? Because you should when removing the throttle body to remove the manifold.
Jag Part #: ?
Other Part #: FEL-PRO Part # 61351
Quantity: 1
Source: RockAuto.com
Price: ~$2
Instructions: None.
Notes: None.


Part: Valve Cover Gaskets, Inner & Outer, Right & Left
Why change? Possibly contributing to oil leaking onto manifold causing burning oil smell in cabin, contributing to misfire if oil building up in spark plug wells, easy to do when manifold off.
Jag Part #: Right, Outer: XR8005374; Left, Outer: XR8016232; Right & Left, Inner: XR8005380
Other Part #: FEL-PRO Part # VS50610R
Quantity: 1 set
Source: RockAuto.com
Price: ~$40 for the set from Fel Pro
Instructions: None.
Notes: None.


Part: Air Filter
Why change? Standard maintenance.. ? May change to ensure no issues.
Jag Part #: XR8008237
Other Part #: FRAM Part # CA8956
Quantity: 1
Source: RockAuto.com
Price: ~$5
Instructions: None.
Notes: None.


Part: Fuel Filter
Why change? Standard maintenance at this mileage; it's easy to do; want car running as good as possible
Jag Part #: XR8001775
Other Part #: FRAM Part # G8018
Quantity: 1
Source: RockAuto.com
Price: ~$6
Instructions: http://www.jaghelp.com/2012/03/chang...-jaguar-s.html
Notes: None.


Part: Cowl Panel Clips
Jag Part #: xr87508010
Other Part #: NA, will use Jag part #
Quantity: 9
Source: TBD
Price: ~$1
Instructions: The item I am referring to is #2 in the pic linked below. USPARTS.
Notes: Some of these clips are lost / broken on my Jag, need to find some replacements, can't seem to locate from a reliable source.


OTHER MAINTENANCE TO PERFORM:
1. Clean MAF sensor with MAF cleaner.
2. Clean Throttle Body with Throttle Body cleaner.


QUESTIONS:
1. There is a breather hose part #C2S50039; Breather Hose - C2S50039 | Jaguar S Type | Jaguar | British Parts UK - should this also be replaced while I am in there? I don't even know where that part goes

2. Should the vacuum lines be replaced while I am in there? I don't want tp spend unnecessary money, but I also don't want to spend another day because I didn't replace a cheap part. I looked at the pics in this thread and I am not sure if any of those should be replaced while the manifold is off; or if they can be replaced without taking the manifold off on another day.

3. In the thread linked above there is a reference to "a rubber elbow located at the back of the upper intake as well that is a common failure as well for the MYs 1999~2002". What is this other elbow that commonly fails? I am aware of the breather hose below the lower intake manifold #XR845730, but am not clear on the other one that is a common failure.

4. Where can I get the cowl panel clips? Part #XR8007508

5. Not sure if the slightly more expensive plugs are worh the extra money, any recommendations?

6. Also I cannot find any reference to "spark plug seals" for the V6, only for the V8. I have read references to replacing the spark plug seals; Does this apply to the V6? If so what are part #s for the spark plug seals for the V6?.

7. Want to get good quality coils, see wide price variation, don't want unreliable ones, but need to get a good deal as these are pricey. Any recommendations on a source for reliable quality coils?

8. What is the right part # for the throttle body gasket?

9. I have read references to spark plug boots; it appears that these come with the coils; is that generally the case or are the spark plug boots a separate part?

10. Is there anything else I should be doing while in there performing this maintenance?

Thanks!!
Eamonn aka eggman

 

Good luck and take your time.

 

Could it be that spark plug seal is another name for boot?

 

That's a very comprehensive maintenance list. Let us know what your final cost was once you've performed all of your intended tasks. As Rick advised, take your time and be careful with those brittle components....

 

As Rick indicates they are different. The boots come with the COPs and the seals are an "inside" diameter valve cover gasket, 1 per bank, they come with the valve cover gasket set. It made sense to me after he explained it.

I added some more info including a parts total to the original post. It seems like this is not that big a job (assuming nothing breaks, strips, seizes or drops into a hole it shouldn't). It is deceptively daunting for guys like me, but once you break it down I think (hope) it looks worse than it actually is. The main challenge I have is figuring out all the stuff that needs to be done when the manifold is off; adding even 25% to the cost and not much additional wrenching time seems very worth it to get the car running great and - most importantly - avoid having to do it again for a $10 hose.

Do you have a list of parts and/or part numbers and/or a good source for parts? I couldn't seem to find part #s in any of the materials I have, nor could I find the parts on RockAuto.

I found several of the parts on PartsGeek.com, but I am not sure if they are the right ones or if I may be missing some:
02 2002 Jaguar S Type Breather Hose - Air Intake - Genuine - PartsGeek
and
02 2002 Jaguar S Type Booster Vacuum Hose - Brake - Genuine - PartsGeek

MORE QUESTIONS:
In your picture above you reference the purge canister known for cracking at seal; is this worth replacing? Can a crack that affects performance be detected by visual inspection?
Is it worth replacing the Crank Vent Valve?
The PCV Valve?
Is it worth it to have one of the hoses with the "infamous" nipple on it around?
(such as the second one down on this page: 02 2002 Jaguar S Type Radiator Hose - Cooling System - APA/URO Parts, Dayco, Genuine, Lower, Upper - PartsGeek)


THANKS RICK et all for this and all your other incredibly helpful posts on this forum. Folks like you make Jag ownership much more affordable for the rest of us!

egg

 

Eggman, Its refreshing to see someone asking intelligent questions.
Here is my way of saying thanks (these are the two wire type):

 

I like the planning!

Some people have had grief with the brass (I think they are that) inserts for the manifold bolts coming loose. I hope I have this described right as I don't have a 3.0 and am trying to dig out somewhat vague memories!

I'm not sure how you'd plan for it in case you suffer it...

 

Great find, I would call to make sure that they are the 2 wire COP's to be sure.



What Jagv8 is referring to, are the upper intake (plenum) and lower intake bolts are threaded into brass sleeves (inserts). You may or may not have a problem with the upper/lower intake bolts not threading out, which means the brass sleeves are spinning in their respective holes. Inwhich case you would have to gently pry the intake out AFTER the rest of the bolts were removed. Then simply epoxy the brass sleeve back into the hole. Upper intake (plenum) brass sleeves pictured below in red circles. (This is a 2003 MY pictured below).



The lower intake brass sleeves (4) are self explanatory. Sorry I don't have a clear picture of the lowers.

 

If they were the 4 wire type, I would be buying them!

 

THANKS GENTS!

I did end up ordering those coils through Amazon - they are the 2 wire coils and got good reviews on other internet sites (in addition to amazon.com). Thanks very much for that tip Heima!

That actually saved me a bunch of money... enough money that I bought a Go Point BT1 Bluetooth OBDII dongle so I can do OBD on my iPhone =) And Harry's Lap Timer with engine telemetry

Although the engine seemed to pass "water tests" on the vacuum hoses, I ordered as many of the vacuum hoses I could locate online for my 2002 MY 3.0 V6. I also ordered the rad hose bit that commonly breaks.. just in case.

The rear IMT valve is leaking a decent amount of oil. The car has a pretty bad misfire; possibly a combo of leaking o-rings and 100k miles on the coils. The misfire is bad enough that the Catalytic converters may be damaged, but I will do this repair first and then see how it drives.

Probably a couple of weeks before all the parts ship and I get the job done; it's my daily driver so I am anxious to get the repairs done asap.

Thanks again, this community is an awesome resource for Jag owners!

 

Rick figured out the brass things correctly Sorry I was a bit vague!

If that OBD tool will do live data, have a look at LTFTs (see below) at idle & 2500rpm. Shoud be close to 0 and not change much, on both banks.

 

You are very much welcome! Glad I could help in some way.

Oh, somethings I remembered from when I did this same service on my S Type.

Before you remove the black plastic cover from the driver's side bank of the engine, remove the oil filler cap and stuff a rag in there. When the black plastic cover is removed, the grommet/gasket for the oil filler wipes the side of the oil filler and deposits the gunk scraped off into the oil filler.

And another thing. The instructions will have you unbolt the intake manifold from the plenum, after which you will be disconnecting hoses and cables. You will be moving the intake manifold around as you do this.

As a precautionary measure, toss a couple of rags between the plenum and intake manifold. In the center of the plenum is the fuel rail, which has some brackets. These brackets will gouge the bottom machined surface of the intake manifold if you are not careful.

And yet something else. The emissions hoses that attach to the underside of the throttle body and at the rear of the intake manifold are compression fittings. You must first press a tiny ring where the hose enters the throttle body and intake manifold in the opposite direction you are pulling to release the hose. Otherwise, you will be pulling on the hose like a madman, and it is not going to budge.

And yet still something else. If after removing the coils you see oil in the spark plug well, do not remove the spark plug. Remove the oil, all of it, first. Use rags, paper towels, etc, to get every last bit. If you just remove the spark plug, the oil will flow into the cylinder. It will be difficult to remove now. The last thing you want to do is crank the engine with the new spark plug installed, as the oil will cause hydraulic lock.

Will I ever stop? If you bought the Fel-Pro valve cover gasket kit, it includes a bunch of rubber "doughnuts" that replace the existing ones on the the valve cover bolts. The replacement doughnuts have a tube extension which is not like the older doughnuts. Remove the old doughnut by twisting it off, favoring one side. Like unscrewing at an angle. Install the new doughnut in the same fashion, with the tube extension away from the flange of the bolt. Then insert the tube extension of the doughnut into the valve cover. You might have to twist here as well. Remember, the two bolts in the center of the valve cover are different from the rest. Install the gasket into the valve cover. Note, the gaskets look identical, but are not. When you do finally install the valve cover, put a pea sized ball of gasket sealant on the 4 pads of the gasket.

I'll shut up now.

 

Great advice, but what about torque specs and pictures...

 

Eggman51, well written with ALL pertinent information!!! CUDOS!!!!

 

Hi there, its the first time that I join such a community and hope you may help me as Im a big Jaguar fan and im totally felt in love with our cat we bought last year. After driving for some nice weeks, feelling in love mor and more, we had a successfull "meeting" with a deer Now we tryd to find a new motor for our Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 for over 6 months and we are getting crazy about these different types of motors which came in year 2002. Now after sitting at the web hours and hours i found following informations: there is a S Type 2002 before facelift and a S Type 2002 after Facelift. Now- does the S Type BEFORE facelift having another engine or look of the engine and does the S Type AFTER Facelift is named 2002.5 and has this type of engine which we may see here on the photos?? Or is the 2002.5 another Type- maybe the SPORT TYPE? Is probably the 2002.5 automatically the Sport? Cause our engine is the one we see here on the photos - but we just find these other 2002 type of engines with another look.. HOPE you may help and answer these questions quickly and maybe you also have an idea where to get.... would loooove to drive around very soon again- just love this Car! THANKS!

 

..i mean this photo..this motor we have..which kind is it?? quite confused...

 

2002.5MY is up to VIN M45254

The engine is mainly the same but it would make life much easier to fit the identical kind as things like IMT were added and some things removed.

You should be able to get a used engine cheaply of any year! You can buy an entire (working) car for under 1000 euro (£800) here.

 

Hey thanks for your answer!! but the lin you gave is for selling the car not for buying a new engine- and still the question- is this on the picture a 2002.5 engine ? cause its not so easy to find this type of engine and rest of car is really nice so we wont buy a new one....just we need the engine and the type of engine-
thats why im asking- cause there are these normal 2002 engines on the market and then this one on the photo- which is it??? 2002 sport, 2002.5 ? or is it in all cars after facelift- the one who posted this photo should have the same and know the answer...thanks a lot!! Hoping for answers..

 

I did not give any line about selling a car! You may have seen an advertisement but nothing to do with me - use an ad-blocker like adblockplus to get rid of such things.

 

oh yeah sorry, this sentence and the following ad were kidding me..not such a computer pro

well- so you say the motor block is same or are there also differences?? thanks for your help!!!