Finally got everything aligned and put back together and im ready to do a leakage test. When doing the test do I need rotate the crank to TDC or make sure the cams are flat? I had read that jags arent set to TDC like most other cars

 

The JTIS Workshop Manual shows the correct procedure to follow. If memory serves me correctly, there is a difference of about five degrees when setting up the cams. Unless you have moved the VVT units on the inlet cams, you should be correctly set up once the cam locking tool is installed on the flat surface of the cams.

 

I completed leak down on the passenger side and it was reading 25 to 30%. Im not sure how accurate those numbers are because I had trouble dialing in the tester to 0. I tested the leak percent not connected to the engine and highest value it was showing was 65% so im not sure what I did wrong

 

How much air pressure did you use and did you hear air escaping through the exhaust or elsewhere?

 

I set the compressor to 60 psi and I believe it was coming thru the intake

 

Did you get the same results from all cylinders, or just one?

Since you have evidence of leakage, did you connect air pressure directly to the cylinders in question with the pistons at TDC on the compression stroke without the leak tester and then listen for air escaping? If air is escaping from the inlet manifold, it is most likely a damaged valve or valve seat.

 

I got that reading from 3 of the cylinders i tested on the compression stroke. Thats the next thing im going to do is try the air directly. I tried the tester not connected to the spark plug hole just to see what it would say and it gave me a reading of 60psi which doesn't seem right. Im not sure what im doing wrong

 

Are the three cylinders showing leakage on the same bank?

If you have the equipment, also perform a compression test on the three cylinders you get low readings on.

 

Yes it's on the same bank....I dont have a compression tester but im going to get one

 

So I finally got a chance to finish the leak down test and the compression test and the results were:

Leak Down results(cold):

Passenger Side
Cylinder 4 - 40%
Cylinder 3 - 40%
Cylinder 2 - 45%
Cylinder 1 - 25%

Driver Side
Cylinder 4 - 60%
Cylinder 3 - 50%
Cylinder 2 - 40%
Cylinder 1 - 35%


Compression Test results(cold):
Passenger Side
Cylinder 4 - 95psi
Cylinder 3 - 95psi
Cylinder 2 - 100psi
Cylinder 1 - 100psi

Driver Side
Cylinder 4 - 95psi
Cylinder 3 - 95psi
Cylinder 2 - 100psi
Cylinder 1 - 95psi

I heated up the engine to see if the compression got better and it did slightly

Passenger Side
Cylinder 4 - 130
Cylinder 3 - 130
Cylinder 2 - 135
Cylinder 1 - 130

Driver Side
Cylinder 4 - 130
Cylinder 3 - 130
Cylinder 2 - 135
Cylinder 1 - 130

After putting everything back together I got a CEL for P0193. Also I recorded a video of what it sounds like running...

 

I was not able to get the video to play, but interestingly all the ads on that page seem to work. How do you describe the noise?

Based on the information listed above, it appears the engine has good compression and should run correctly assuming the valve timing is correct.

Check the electrical connection to the fuel rail transducer, reset the MIL by clearing the code and drive the vehicle to see if P0193 returns.

 

I just realize the code problably came from me disconnecting the fuel pump fuse to test the compression so I rest that....I thought the compression reading was too low? It still is running a bit rough but now where as bad as before.. The best way I can describe the sound is that is sounds like the injector pulsing at a amplified sound. Here's another to try since the video wasnt working... Something I did notice when doing the compression test that the plugs were 6 bosch 4+ plugs and 2 were nkg and most of the plugs were dark and oily looking on the tips if that makes a difference

 

Given the age of the engine and the mileage, the compression is acceptable. It is difficult to tell from the video exactly what the noise is, or its location. You may want to isolate the noise by using a stethoscope or a screwdriver with a long blade to isolate the area the noise is coming from.

From the video, it almost sounds as if one of the primary timing chains is creating the noise.

 

It is probably best to replace all the spark plugs if there is evidence of oil fouling.

 

I think I might have locted the noise coming from the driver side near the top of the timing chain cover no im going to double check that the secondary chains on that side. I placed the stethoscope on various places on the timing cover to see if it was the primary but it wasnt coming from there. Im going to definitely change the plugs, I unplugged various COPs while it was idling to see if would change the idling and it made no difference just a slight audio change of the engine

 

I cleared the code and it didnt come back

 

The sound and idle seemed to get worse over the last couple days so I took over the valve covers expecting to see the timing had jumped but I the timing is still perfect. So now im stumped as what to do now. The only known potential idle problem are the fouled plugs, the one COP, the broken gas cap. Any ideas?

 

Did you only check the two tensioners or did you look at the whole thing?

Somebody may have done a poor boy repair and only replaced the top two that are easy to get to. You need to change ALL the tensioners and the chains.

Sounds like it's still out of time and that could easily be your problem.
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No I only checked the secondary tensioners, the primary chains are tight though. I was trying to eliminate smaller issues before shedding out $1k and it something small like COPs or a vacuum leak.... I checked the and got everything lined up on both sides with the timing tools and I changed all the spark plugs and she still sounds like a diesel with no CEL

 

Did some more testing and hooked up a scan to the ecm to see some numbers and mostly everything seemed except the votalge I think was a bit low, the scan tool was displaying the voltage to be at constant 12.5-12.7. I was also hooked up a vacuum tester to check for leaks and it was reading shaky 16.5-16 in.Hg