Problems with S type auto gear box
#1
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Problems with S type auto gear box
Hi there
I am new to this forum and new to the S type (although have had two jags before)
I hope someone can help me. I have just bought a late 2000 S type with auto gear box and had it a week. The problem I have is that when changing from neutral or reverse to Drive the gear doesnt engage but if I shift to 3rd or second and then back to drive it will then engage
Anyone any ideas on what the problem might be
thanks in advance
I am new to this forum and new to the S type (although have had two jags before)
I hope someone can help me. I have just bought a late 2000 S type with auto gear box and had it a week. The problem I have is that when changing from neutral or reverse to Drive the gear doesnt engage but if I shift to 3rd or second and then back to drive it will then engage
Anyone any ideas on what the problem might be
thanks in advance
#5
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RE: Problems with S type auto gear box
One other thing I noticed wen driving jst now is that when I select drive from nuetral, it indicates Neutral, however when I move the selector to 4th and then back to drive it selects drive and indicates drive. Dont know if this helps at all in your diagnosis
Thanks in advance
Vince
Thanks in advance
Vince
#7
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#8
RE: Problems with S type auto gear box
It is the shift cable. It just needs adjusted. You need a 15/16 wrench and vice grips. Fung fu grip the center console off the car. Put it in neutral. Then put the vice grips just behind the nut, on the metal. Back off one of the nuts a little, then tighten the other side. It will move the cable inside. Then put it from neutral to reverse and back to neutral and back to drive. The distance between R-N and N-D should be the same. The letters should light up at same distance I mean. If it isnt, go the other direction. If you are not comfortable doing that, have someone else do it. But it is just an adjustment.
Side note......Jags can be high maintenance. You should be prepared for unexpected costs to arise. Part of the joy of ownership....just not knowing if you are going to make it there or not.....lol
Side note......Jags can be high maintenance. You should be prepared for unexpected costs to arise. Part of the joy of ownership....just not knowing if you are going to make it there or not.....lol
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#9
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RE: Problems with S type auto gear box
Hi there FactoryJagtech
many thanks for the advice - will try this tomorrow morning. Am aware about Jags and have owned two previously although I wouldnt say high maintenance just expensive- However one week after buying a new car is not the time I wanted to discover I need to spend a lot on a new gear box.
Anyway thanks for the advice and will let you know (I will et my local Ford gaage to do it for me)
many thanks for the advice - will try this tomorrow morning. Am aware about Jags and have owned two previously although I wouldnt say high maintenance just expensive- However one week after buying a new car is not the time I wanted to discover I need to spend a lot on a new gear box.
Anyway thanks for the advice and will let you know (I will et my local Ford gaage to do it for me)
#10
#12
RE: Problems with S type auto gear box
factoryjaguartech does the car need to be running when doing that adjustment i am goign to try and figure out if i can do it myself can you please explain again (Fung fu grip the center console off the car. Put it in neutral. Then put the vice grips just behind the nut, on the metal. Back off one of the nuts a little, then tighten the other side) does that mean hold the centerconsole tightly and put the car in nuetral i dont understand why you have to hold the center console ? does the center console have to come out then you have acces to these nuts?
#14
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RE: Problems with S type auto gear box
Thanks to "FactoryJagTech" and "Jag_Genius" -- I did this shifter adjustment
fix on my 2000 S-Type 3L and it worked perfect. For everyone's benefit, here
is a more detailed description of the process:
Since it is rear wheel drive this past winter I got stuck in some ice, so
I tried to rockback and forth by shifting back and forth...yeah, dumb,
I know now.
For whatever reason -- presumably shifter cable stretch --I soon
found that when I shifted to D/Drive it was still neutral. By nudging
the shifter towards 4th gear it would get into Drive. I drove that
way for several months, not wanting to work on the Jag during the
cold weather.
Following the great advice in thiswww.jaguarforums.com turned out
to bea *very* easy fix -- 25 minutes.
1. Pull the emergency brake handle up as far as you can
2. Turn key ON but do not start engine
3. Step on brake in order to shift to Neutral
4. Grab front of center console -- one hand on either side of the
cigar lighter area -- and pull up
5. Ease the whole front of console up a few inches and disconnect
the cigar lighter wire
6. Pull the console up even higher, being careful not to scratch the
shifter knob, and reach in and disconnect the connectors on those
"traction" switches. There are little holes in the side of the
connector you have to depress -- like with a small screwdriver -- to
get theconnector to release.
7. Now you can ease the whole console up and over the shifter knob
and pivot it towards the passenger seat.
8. You will see a shifter cable assembly and two large brass looking
nuts -- I think each nut is 15/16" They pinch on a brass
bracket. IMPORTANT: There is a washer under one ofthe nuts,
and it has acouple little bent tangs that have to go into a slot
on thenon-movingbrassplate.Rotate the washeraroundwhen
the nuts are loose until the washer seatsinto the slot correctly.
9. Essentially, depending on whether the adjustment error is towards
the front or back, you have to figure out which way to adjust
the 2 nuts.
10. Not being too smart, and and being a risk taker, I first
adjusted my 2 nuts a couple turns to push the cable towards the front.
11. I started the car engine (leaving emergy brake pulled up) and
tried the shift mechanism. Nope --apparently I went in the
wrong direction because it was worse. No need to wrench them
together tight, just finger tight for the time being.
12. So I adjusted these nuts back and then towards the back
2 full turns (now -2 turns from the starting point). With the
engine still running (and stepping on brake to "hear/feel" when
I actually shifted, I found it was better but not perfect.
13. So, I tried 2 more full nut turns towards the back again, and
that turned out to be right. I verified all the shifting felt
right, and verified that the illumination of the P/R/N/D LEDs worked.
14. I put on lock-tite glue onto the nuts and tightened them up good.
15. With car still running, I again verifed proper shifting.
16. Shut car off, eased the console back over the shifter knob.
17. Reattach the "traction" switches, and the cigar lighter
connection
18. Ease the console completely down and snapped it back into place.
It now works like a charm, and probably saved me $300USD or more
if an ignorant mechanic told me it needs a new transmission or something.
All you really must know is the concept of double nuts pinching a
plate in the middle moves the end of the cable as you work the nuts
forward/backward.
ALSO -- my original probably is apparently different that some other
shifter / transmission problems I read about. i.e. sometimes a
plastic housing on the end of the shifter cable can shatter/crack and
sometimes you shift into a gear and for like 3 to 7 seconds it does not
engage. Those are diiferent issues than mine was.
That's the view from here -- questions welcome.
Thanks!!
EdHoldgate@yahoo.com
Live Free or Die New Hampshire
fix on my 2000 S-Type 3L and it worked perfect. For everyone's benefit, here
is a more detailed description of the process:
Since it is rear wheel drive this past winter I got stuck in some ice, so
I tried to rockback and forth by shifting back and forth...yeah, dumb,
I know now.
For whatever reason -- presumably shifter cable stretch --I soon
found that when I shifted to D/Drive it was still neutral. By nudging
the shifter towards 4th gear it would get into Drive. I drove that
way for several months, not wanting to work on the Jag during the
cold weather.
Following the great advice in thiswww.jaguarforums.com turned out
to bea *very* easy fix -- 25 minutes.
1. Pull the emergency brake handle up as far as you can
2. Turn key ON but do not start engine
3. Step on brake in order to shift to Neutral
4. Grab front of center console -- one hand on either side of the
cigar lighter area -- and pull up
5. Ease the whole front of console up a few inches and disconnect
the cigar lighter wire
6. Pull the console up even higher, being careful not to scratch the
shifter knob, and reach in and disconnect the connectors on those
"traction" switches. There are little holes in the side of the
connector you have to depress -- like with a small screwdriver -- to
get theconnector to release.
7. Now you can ease the whole console up and over the shifter knob
and pivot it towards the passenger seat.
8. You will see a shifter cable assembly and two large brass looking
nuts -- I think each nut is 15/16" They pinch on a brass
bracket. IMPORTANT: There is a washer under one ofthe nuts,
and it has acouple little bent tangs that have to go into a slot
on thenon-movingbrassplate.Rotate the washeraroundwhen
the nuts are loose until the washer seatsinto the slot correctly.
9. Essentially, depending on whether the adjustment error is towards
the front or back, you have to figure out which way to adjust
the 2 nuts.
10. Not being too smart, and and being a risk taker, I first
adjusted my 2 nuts a couple turns to push the cable towards the front.
11. I started the car engine (leaving emergy brake pulled up) and
tried the shift mechanism. Nope --apparently I went in the
wrong direction because it was worse. No need to wrench them
together tight, just finger tight for the time being.
12. So I adjusted these nuts back and then towards the back
2 full turns (now -2 turns from the starting point). With the
engine still running (and stepping on brake to "hear/feel" when
I actually shifted, I found it was better but not perfect.
13. So, I tried 2 more full nut turns towards the back again, and
that turned out to be right. I verified all the shifting felt
right, and verified that the illumination of the P/R/N/D LEDs worked.
14. I put on lock-tite glue onto the nuts and tightened them up good.
15. With car still running, I again verifed proper shifting.
16. Shut car off, eased the console back over the shifter knob.
17. Reattach the "traction" switches, and the cigar lighter
connection
18. Ease the console completely down and snapped it back into place.
It now works like a charm, and probably saved me $300USD or more
if an ignorant mechanic told me it needs a new transmission or something.
All you really must know is the concept of double nuts pinching a
plate in the middle moves the end of the cable as you work the nuts
forward/backward.
ALSO -- my original probably is apparently different that some other
shifter / transmission problems I read about. i.e. sometimes a
plastic housing on the end of the shifter cable can shatter/crack and
sometimes you shift into a gear and for like 3 to 7 seconds it does not
engage. Those are diiferent issues than mine was.
That's the view from here -- questions welcome.
Thanks!!
EdHoldgate@yahoo.com
Live Free or Die New Hampshire
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Jack Kass (05-06-2017)
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#17
#18
S Type Shifting problems
I have a 2000 jaguar s type, 3.0 litre, with 98,000 miles. About a year ago I already repaired the transmission and it works fine, recently I replaced the plastic part on the shift and adjust the shifting cable and now after I start the engine and put the gear shift lever (automatic) to "drive", nothing more happens, it does not go into gear. I then move the shift lever over to the gear "2" and it does go into gear. After that, I move it over to "drive" and the car runs fine. Please; żAny advice?
#20
on my 2001 s type4.0 it does engage after a delay when i push the stick all the way to D..i've been driving it this way for 25000 miles..would that hurt the tranny? for the past few months i've noticed it is hard to move the stick from park to R or D and i can feel a strong movement anytime i shift between P R N D.. i havn't serviced the tranny at all coz my owner's manual states that it is sealed for life..is it possible for the tranny to live long without any service,esp. i have 100k on it, or it might be dying on me soon...i appreciate any info since my comprehensive extended warranty($3500) is expiring in 2 months and i don't knw what the best to do