PSA: If you get the trans fault light, try spraying the connections first!
#1
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My vehicle: 2003 STR w/ 65K miles
I've gotten the transmission fault light a handful of times since I've owned my STR. The car would automatically go into limp mode and refuse to accelerate/shift gears. For those of you who have had this problem, TRY THIS FIRST.
The first time I've gotten the trans fault, I had the car towed back home. I fixed the stretched cable, did a whole transmission service with ZF fluid and etc.. No matter what, a day or two would pass and the fault would come back again.
I disconnected all the sensors from the transmission and simply sprayed it with connection cleaner. THATS IT.
After spraying the sensors, I hadn't had a problem due to this since. Now, I know this is a long shot and may not be applicable in all circumstances. However, this is the easiest, fastest, and cheapest method to do. I would first clean the sensors before tackling the other things on the list.
I've gotten the transmission fault light a handful of times since I've owned my STR. The car would automatically go into limp mode and refuse to accelerate/shift gears. For those of you who have had this problem, TRY THIS FIRST.
The first time I've gotten the trans fault, I had the car towed back home. I fixed the stretched cable, did a whole transmission service with ZF fluid and etc.. No matter what, a day or two would pass and the fault would come back again.
I disconnected all the sensors from the transmission and simply sprayed it with connection cleaner. THATS IT.
After spraying the sensors, I hadn't had a problem due to this since. Now, I know this is a long shot and may not be applicable in all circumstances. However, this is the easiest, fastest, and cheapest method to do. I would first clean the sensors before tackling the other things on the list.
The following 3 users liked this post by heroooo:
#2
#3
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In one of the "stickies" - I recommended that this is always the FIRST thing to do when troubleshooting. The best out there is DeOxit D5 contact cleaner. S-Types average 10 years old - and if you've ever checked even a fuse, you can see the oxidation on the contacts. Imagine the same oxidation on a pin, where oxidation changes the resistance level (and trigger false alerts). As an example, just check the bulb carrier assembly for tail lights. Not shiny metal anymore.
I've recommended that across the board, the first step in electrical troubleshooting is checking the physical connection, including any fuses. Quite a few issues are solved at the physical level. And that holds true in areas other than automobiles.
I've recommended that across the board, the first step in electrical troubleshooting is checking the physical connection, including any fuses. Quite a few issues are solved at the physical level. And that holds true in areas other than automobiles.
The following 3 users liked this post by Warspite:
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In one of the "stickies" - I recommended that this is always the FIRST thing to do when troubleshooting. The best out there is DeOxit D5 contact cleaner. S-Types average 10 years old - and if you've ever checked even a fuse, you can see the oxidation on the contacts. Imagine the same oxidation on a pin, where oxidation changes the resistance level (and trigger false alerts). As an example, just check the bulb carrier assembly for tail lights. Not shiny metal anymore.
I've recommended that across the board, the first step in electrical troubleshooting is checking the physical connection, including any fuses. Quite a few issues are solved at the physical level. And that holds true in areas other than automobiles.
I've recommended that across the board, the first step in electrical troubleshooting is checking the physical connection, including any fuses. Quite a few issues are solved at the physical level. And that holds true in areas other than automobiles.
#5
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I restore '70's Marantz audio gear - and have been playing with they type of equipment for over 30 years (and I still own an oscilloscope). Nothing cleans contacts better than that DeOxit product! Knocks out "scratchy" volume and balance controls in one shot.
Many automotive connectors have a way for moisture to seep in through the plastic carrier. Once the contacts are cleaned, one extra step is to seal these with a bead of silicone sealant, so you can eliminate that being a source of grief.
Many automotive connectors have a way for moisture to seep in through the plastic carrier. Once the contacts are cleaned, one extra step is to seal these with a bead of silicone sealant, so you can eliminate that being a source of grief.
Last edited by Warspite; 12-03-2015 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Spell Check....
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I restore '70's Marantz audio gear - and have been playing with they type of equipment for over 30 years (and I still own an oscilloscope). Nothing cleans contacts better than that DeOxit product! Knocks out "scratchy" volume and balance controls in one shot.
Many automotive connectors have a way for moisture to seep in through the plastic carrier. Once the contacts are cleaned, one extra step is to seal these with a bead of silicone sealant, so you can eliminate that being a source of grief.
Many automotive connectors have a way for moisture to seep in through the plastic carrier. Once the contacts are cleaned, one extra step is to seal these with a bead of silicone sealant, so you can eliminate that being a source of grief.
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