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Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

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  #2  
Old 11-07-2008 | 09:12 AM
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Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

When I get home this afternoon I'll consult with the almighty JTIS manual.
 
  #3  
Old 11-07-2008 | 10:04 AM
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Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

pull on em harder, theyre on post and rubber grommets and lube em when you put them back, and remember to put alittle antiseize on the plugs when you put them in
 
  #4  
Old 11-07-2008 | 03:19 PM
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Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

clean your engine too jeez its a jaguar not a honda...
 
  #5  
Old 11-07-2008 | 03:30 PM
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From: Damon /Houston, Texas
Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

ORIGINAL: whiteSTR

clean your engine too jeez its a jaguar not a honda...
you should compliment him on wanting to do that job himself, much less a Jaguar owner knowing what it looks like under the hoodof course this doesnt apply to forum jockeys
 
  #6  
Old 11-07-2008 | 09:36 PM
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Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

The rear spark plugs were the hardest for me.It took metwo and a half hours to change lol,but it was my first spark plug change.Someone should make a diy spark plug change
 
  #7  
Old 11-07-2008 | 10:03 PM
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Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

ORIGINAL: v8stype

The rear spark plugs were the hardest for me.It took metwo and a half hours to change lol,but it was my first spark plug change.Someone should make a diy spark plug change
lol, at that rate, youd be a skinny tech, you just use an extension that comes out the valve cover and a unversal with a much longer extension on that....
 
  #8  
Old 11-07-2008 | 10:22 PM
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Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

I actually just finished throwing a new set in my car like 15 minutes ago... what a start to my friday night lol when doing them on the R the best thing to do is unplug the pcv breather on the left side, and unplug the black round cylinder (pinch the two sides of the vacuum line going to the bottom and slide the rubber prong out of its slot on the side) and move that out of the way and also remove you oil dipstick to give yourself move room... on the v8's and R's you may also need to unplug the electrical plug going into the brake booster to be able to slide the coils out..

Heres a quick DIY for the R:
1. Unplug the PCV breather hose
2. Remove oil dipstick
2. Unplug and move the black round cylinder on RH side of the engine (boost referenced FPR if Im not mistaken)
3. Gently pull the black "JAGUAR" coil pack covers off (each held on by two brass barbs)
4. Remove all eight of the 8mm bolts holding the coils in place
5. Carefully remove the electrical plugs from the coils and then remove the coils from the engine
6. With a 6" extension, a swivel, and adjustable angled ratchet remove all 8 plugs (yeah theres really eight...)
7. Inspect old plugs to see how your engine is running (if you can't read plugs.. google it, don't you dare email me)
8. DO NOT USE ANTISEIZE ON THE PLUGS (lol sorry brutal but it's way to easy for some newb to overtorque the plugs and break something with it on..)
9. Check the new plugs with a feeler gauge (gap on R is .40) to make sure the moron working in the stockroom at Discount Auto didn't drop the box and f*ck up your plugs
10. Tighten plugs till you feel the plug washers crush (NOT BREAK) then double check before to make sure they are all tight before installing the coils
11. With your pinkie apply a generous amount of dielectric grease to the inside of the boot on the coil to keep moisture out
12. Reinstall coils, but dont tighten the 8mm bolts till they are all in and the electrical connectors are snapped on
13. Check your work, double check all of the wires, then triple check
14. Reinstall the "JAGUAR" covers (use some grease on the brass prongs to make the job easier)
15. Reinstall anything you move to gain access to the plugs
16. Turn the key and if it starts give yourself a pat on the back and have a beer or two or seven! (and if it doesnt start or makes a popping sound.... start crying)
 
  #9  
Old 11-07-2008 | 10:32 PM
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From: Damon /Houston, Texas
Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

lol alittle too much done, but very thorough, and use anti seize, or it might be the last set of plugs you ever get out, since steel and aluminum can weld themselves together, but hey to each his own.
 
  #10  
Old 11-07-2008 | 10:34 PM
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Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

Oh yeah and I use NGK Iridium IV's (.40 gap) and I think they're great..
 
  #13  
Old 11-09-2008 | 06:46 AM
whiteSTR's Avatar
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Default RE: Question about changing Spark Plugs – How do you remove the cowling?

Definitely do not use those... I used them in my audi once and blew four coil packs.. some people would try to say that one had nothing to do with the other, but I would have to disagree (I think they have a different resistance than regular plugs). Stick with NGK they make the best plugs out there.. Those plugs are just a creative marketing gimmick, and some guys I've talked to said their idle actually got rougher when they installed them. The spark will only take the path of least resistance, just because you have four ground straps, does not mean you have four sparks. The only idea behind these plugs is that over time, if one ground fouls then you have three others, but usually when one ground fouls they all do (they all see the same heat, oil, detonation, fuel, etc.)... 4.2 S-Types and R's use NGK Laser Iridium from the factory, the only other plugs I would consider using are the Iridium IV's..

Lol but if you do try the Bosch 4s in the jag, please let us know how it goes..
 
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