Ok guys and gals, I have searched until my yes are following out. I know there is a wealth of info here but I just can't seem to type in the right key word. So if anyone can direct me to the right threads I would greatly appreciate it. Also I have a 2001 S-Type and love the way it looks.


Here are the first of many question I am sure:


1 How I can I tell if my S is supercharged or not?


2 headlights: can I up grade to the Xenon style or stay at the HID's. I have to put new headlights in to pass inspection in the star of MD, and was just wondering if this was an option?


3 How can I tell if the headlights are of the leveling type? DO I need to replace with the leveling type or can I go with the non leveling?


4 Where can I get some key fobs for my care? I bought it at auction and only got 1 key.


5 how can I really determine what engine is in the car? I know it is the V8 but not really sure if it is 4.0 or 4.2.




That's it for now. Really can't wait to get it inspected and start driving it on the road.

 

Here are your answers:

1 It's not supercharged


2 You can upgrade (with aftermarket HID's- at your own risk) - I'm not sure if Xenon Headlights were even an option for the 2001 MY.... you would have to snap a picture of your headlights and upload for us to confirm.


3 (I'm going to assume you have halogen headlamps) they would be "non-leveling" meaning - you have to manually adjust them. If they are pointed at the ground odds are the adjusters (which are plastic) are broken. You can try the "screw fix" or purchase upgraded adjusters. (I have a set for sale in classifieds)


4 Key Fobs can be purchased on eBay - you will need the dealer or someone with dealer level scanning equipment to program your FOB to the car.


5 You have the 4.0 V8 engine. The 4.2 wasn't introduced until 2003. How many miles and have the plastic tensioners been updated? Read up.....

Good Luck!

 

Thanks for the info abonano. I am trying to read up on all I can. I as I said I bought my S at auction so I want to verify everything I can about my car. I don't know much but am learning.


1 That is why I wanted to know how to tell the difference. Want to be smart about the car I am driving. Just wanted to know how to tell if it was or wasn't?


2 & 3 thanks for the info on this. They are halogen lights and they are broken on all the adjusting points. Tried the screw tip but 1 is ok the other is not and I know it won't pass state inspection. I saw a couple of kits that fix this but weren't sure if it was worth the money to try it or not. Whether it works or not. I was thinking of switching the the Xenon lights because I was going to purchase whole new headlights, so thought about going to Xenon. Going to classifieds to check it out.


4 Thanks for the info. I will get them done. I did see a thread on this but no real info on where they purchased the fobs.


5 I have 128,350 miles and I have no idea if they have or haven't. Is there an easy way to check? Is it is to do? I don't mind grease or dirt and am willing to do it my self.

 

Search for tensioners or timing chains and you will get a whole list of threads. Including how to check if you have the old ones or not.

You should check for that pretty quick as it will destroy the engine if they let go.

Do you plan to keep the car?
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STR was 2003 in USA, 2002 here and 4.2 so yours is definitely not SC engine.

Really worry about the tensioners!

 

You'll have to spring for a second key as well as it takes two to program them.... or find a dealer tech who knows and practices the foil trick.


Headlight assemblies were>$600 ea. Last time I looked. The kit was about $50 and does both sides.
Maybe 4 hours labor including bumper R&R. Only you can decide if it's worth it:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t-have-109123/

 

abonano I looked for your classified and couldn't find it, can you send me the link? I would rather spend a few bucks to fix what I have then replace the whole thing if the fix kits really work. I do need to replace the lens because someone tried one of those kits to fix the lens and they didn't do a good job.


I have been reading the tensioners threads and found all the pics are gone. Is there anyway to get the pics back? Also is there any quick way to check them? Haven't found a thread yet to just check them. If I have to go through the gambit of taking things out just to check them might as well just replace them.

 

Yes the pictures all disappear!! It's a shame too but the problem is you need to upload everything to this site only! All the picture web sites will die or the guy will cancel his account. Then it's game over! No way to get the pictures back.

Since you have not had much luck searching maybe take a look at a couple things I found?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...itting-107452/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-lucky-106888/

This one has two very good documents that I have posted several times. Be sure and follow my link to the Lincoln LS boards too. More LS's around and they are cheap so a lot of kids have them and beat them to death.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ed-help-32118/

It's easy to check if they have been changed and I have pictures in the threads above showing the differences.
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Here you go...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/p...usters-123670/

These adjusters are fairly easy to replace.

Remove headlamp assembly from car
Remove lights and harness from each headlight assembly. (do one at a time)
Heat your oven to 200 degrees (no hotter!) put entire headlight assembly into oven for 7 minutes - pull lens apart from headlight assembly (pay close attention to clear tabs on lens and DO NOT scrape any of the adhesive away from either the lens or headlight assembly!

Remove OEM crappy plastic adjusters - install these adjusters. Use some grease on adjusters, screws and adjuster screws on top of headlamp assembly.

Put headlight assembly and lens back in oven for 5 minutes - take out and squeeze together - again paying close attention to ensuring tabs connect to headlamp assembly and guide tabs goes into place.

As far as the lens - you can salvage them - try the 3M Kit and follow all directions, don't skip any steps. If there are any holes in the lens (from the "screw fix") seal them with clear RTV marine grade silicone sealant while you have the lens apart from the headlight assembly.

Easiest way to check the tensioners (secondaries anyway) - remove the cam covers - if you see deep orange plastic tensioners... start worrying... if either of them are cracked at the base.... really start worrying...and I don;t say either lightly... you will be on borrowed time for sure..

Odds are if the secondary tensioners are original - the primary tensioners/guide rails will more than likely be original as well.

 

Thanks to all. I am planning on keeping my S to enjoy for a long time. I am going to tackle the tensioners and also the headlight fix to save a lot of money. Will also replace the water pump, it sounds like it may have and issue, plus the hoses. Just one question Should I replace the chains or just leave them alone. My S has 128k miles on it.

 

Ray, regarding the chains - it's up to you. Typically if your going into change the tensioners and guides - you would also do the chains while your in there for peace of mind.

Find a shop that specializes in Jaguar to get this work done. This is not for the faint of heart requiring multiple specialized tools.

 

Ok just an update. Had the inspection yesterday and here is what they found:

1 Right Lower ball joint is bad
2 Both front rotors and break pads need to be replaced
3 Head lights (Which I already knew about)

Things I want to replace:
1 water pump and hoses
2 Chain tensioners if needed. Need to check first.
3 Passenger side windows. They done work so if anyone knows quick fix or easy tip, please let me know. I have checked and the windows are held in place by a piece of wood. All plastic parts are broken. Motor still works both front and rear.

Not bad for a car from the auction. I will be doing the work my self so hope the next 3 day weekend which is next week I will be able to get it done.

 

Ray, I would focus on repairing the following in this order (if I was you)

Brake pads (get rotors resurfaced) much cheaper than buying replacements.

Headlights The two items above should get you past inspection.

Ball joint - but don't be surprised if there are other suspension gremlins lurking... (You'll also need an alignment)

The other items (like water pump) should be changed only if your having issues and the tensioners - big bucks...

Window regulator/motors - easy to fix..

 

Abonano,

Unfortunately I have to replace the rotors, inspector said they were to thin, so I will replace them. But what to use? Is after market ok? what brand? Been to couple web sites like Advanced auto and Rock Auto, just not sure what to get?

On the ball joint yeah I know that is a possibility and will be looking for them. Once 1 gets fixed the other will come out but the inspector didnt see anything else.

Water pump is making noise so I am going to replace it and the hoses. going to check the tensioners while i am at it. Question i have is should i go ahead and replace the thermostat housing? it is plastic and that scares me. was going to replace the thermostat too.

The windows are another matter. was reading on the threads about this but didn't find the answer i was looking for. Both motors work it is just the plastic pieces that broke, the ones that attach to the window. Can these parts be replaced or do i have to buy the whole new regulator assembly?

Ray

 

Ok, on rotors - aftermarket is fine - don't get snookered into slotted rotors. Just plain jane rotors will do just fine.

As far as I see brakes and headlights would prevent you from passing inspection. All other issues can be tackled post inspection as follows:

Ball joint - Rock Auto should be fine. Mechanic can tackle pressing old one out and new one in.

I would upgrade to the aluminum thermostat housing - about $60 on eBay.

They do sell the plastic channels that hold the window in place but would advise in changing the regulator assemblies - you don;t know what damage those blocks of wood caused.

Again, I would focus on getting all else squared away first before getting to tensioners - big job and should be done by competent mechanic that has done this job before.

 

Aren't the slots suppose to help move the dust out? What kind of pads do you recommend? Besides measuring the diameter is there any other what to tell what size they are? I have seen both 300mm and 320mm fr this model.


The Ball joint has to be replaced for inspection also, MD is a picky state when it comes to the inspection. I figured i would do the water pump while I was fixing things. Some of the hoses need to be replaced anyway. I am one of those guys if I don't do it now when I know there is an issue and i have or will have the money shortly I will put it off until it really becomes an issue then I get into a bind, Figure while I am at it I would check the tensioners. Was just going to pull the cover off to make sure they are good. So I got the time and the money might as well get it done and I am not afraid of doing the work my self.

The blocks of wood are near the channels or effecting the regulator. They are right in the middle of both of the channels of the regulator holding the window up so I thought I would save a few bucks and replace the plastic parts. Do you know what they are called or where I can get them?

 

You can but at this late date I just change the entire regulator and motor together. You have the early car so the Lincoln LS regulators will work on the front doors and are easy to get.

Just to scare you a bit the tensioners are the real deal. Note the color of the plastic. It was bright white when new.
Look at this mess!

 

Going to order parts tonight, is there anyother part that I might need for the window regulator replacemnt?

 

Are you getting the motor and regulator or just the motor?

Either way that should be all you need. I am a bit picky and like to have a couple of door panel push pins on hand in case I break any of the old ones.

The door panel is on pretty tight and once in a while one or more plastic door pins will break when you pop the panel off.
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Ok I have started trying to fix what I need for the inspection but I am stuck at the Ball Joint. I have been looking and searching and can't find a definitive answer about the Wheel sensor and hub. How can I remove the hub? Should I remove the sensor first, if so how do I do that? This needs to be removed before i can get the ball joint out. Oh yeah the new head lights came in yesterday and I am going to get them installed tonight, man they look crystal clear can't wait to see them on my S.