This may help: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-39466/

 

Thanks Rick, it does help and with the info and pics I found of the hub I realized that the sensor is attached and doesn't come off. I am going to pick up some PB this afternoon and spray it on before i go to a meeting tonight and then come back and see if I can get it out, then i will go after the ball joint. Wish me luck.

 

Just an update, got all the inspection items taken care of. While i was working on the Ball joint i realized that the rest of the suspension needed to be replaced. All the rubber boots were starting to or already was deteriorated. So I ordered all the parts for the front except for the lower control arm. I will get them all replaced shortly. Also replaced the front passenger window regulator with a part for the Lincoln LS and it went in no problems. i now have the part for the rear window and will get that done. Hopefully all will be done in the next 2 weeks or so.

Just 1 more question is Where can i get keys made for my car cheaply? The Key fob I have been told by the dealer is the regular key chain type and not the flip. They gave me XR8-1166 as a part number but that covers a lot of fobs. So how can I make sure i get the right one for my car? I only got the valet key from the auction house.

 

Sorry for not being around but have been busy with the holidays and family stuff. For those who have read the story of how I got my Jag here is and up date. As you remember I was at a car auction to buy my son a car, and well then the Jag came into view and I ended up with it, we actually ended up buying my son a 01 Hyundai Tiburon. Just a basic 5 speed no frills car. he loved and jumped right in and started working on it and really did love and appreciate . Key word there is "Did". Last Monday morning as I prepared to leave on a worked related trip I get that call that every parent doesn't want to hear. My son on the other end screaming and in total hysteric panic. It was the Monday that was very icy out. He had totaled his car by sliding into a tree on a ice patch. Lucky for me no one else was in the car and he was physically ok. Mentally though is another issue. But the car had done what it was designed to do and crumpled the front end. So we went out this past weekend to the auction and now my son is driving a 2000 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t. And any emotional distress of the lost of the Tiburon is no gone and replaced with an energetic love for the A4.

As for me and my S type, I finally got the front suspension done and it rides so much better. I have the rear shocks and will replace them soon, but first I have to replace the water pump. That is next and hopefully done with in the next few weeks.

 

Glad to hear that the steel and sheet metal did their job so your son is okay. Hope he enjoys the Audi. But tell him to stay home when the roads are icy. Driving your car during icy conditions is not worth risking your life....

 

Tensioners, Tensioners, Tensioners!!

Did they get changed yet? I would most certainly replace the chains too. Most kits come with the chains anyway. They do stretch and several people have had timing problems after replacing the tensioners and reusing the old chains.
.
.
.

 

Any idea what a tensioner and chain kit costs...and with installation? I actually miss the days were a small block Chevy 350 could be easily upgraded with a $100 gear drive. Timing chains and timing problems solved! There's something not right about plastic and engines together.

 

Now that the warmer weather is finally getting here I am going to get the work done on my Jag. And Yes Tbird that means getting the tensioners checked. According to the carfax my was taken care of in the shop. So my hope is that since it has 128,500 miles on it that the tensioners have been updated, but I am going to have them checked anyway while the water pump is being replaced.

Warspite I have heard it can run anywhere from $1,500 to $3,500 to get them replaced. The tool kit to do it yourself is about $300 and the parts kit is about $300 if you look around on the internet.


I will update as soon as I know more. I hope to have it up and running by the end of March. Wish me luck.

 

GM used plastic timing gears in their SBC for many years. History repeats itself as it didn't work well for them either.

 

There is/used to be a member here that would send you the tools needed for the job. He required a deposit but then he refunded 100% deposit after he was returned the tools.

I am not sure if he is still around. Check in the classified section, may be use the "tool rental or tool loan" for keywords.

 

Ok just another up date. All is well and she is purring like a big cat. Tensioners are good, new water pump and heater valve installed. Just replaced cabin filter hopefully to make it smell fresher, may have to have the air cleaned out. I did notice I have a small oil leak on the front part of the valve cover right around a sensor. Does anyone know what this sensor is? I thought maybe an oil pressure sensor but can't find it listed. Going to replace rear shocks this weekend. Also is there and spot on the forum to tell which rims I have? I need to get a spare and not sure what I have I will post a pic later today.

 

I believe you are referring to the VVT solenoid valve, which has a wiring connector and is located near the front of the cam cover. The part number for the seal is AJ82856.

 

NBcat do you know if they can be just pulled out and replaced or do I have to pull the cam cover to replace it? I will search on the site for info.

 

I replaced the VVT solenoid O-ring seal on my wife's XK8 (with the 4.2 engine) a couple of weeks ago. I simply pulled off the old seal, wiped up every speck of leaked oil, and firmly seated the new seal using the tip of a quarter-inch wooden dowel to press it all the way in (a metal tool will cut it or deform it). Two weeks and more than 1,500 miles later, the new seal has not leaked a single drop....