Tried looking for threads related to questions on the zf but couldn't find any through the search link on this forum, so sorry if this thread is repetitive. With almost about a year left on my select edition warranty I want to make sure I have any issue that I may have resolved.Biggest concern that I have right now is the transmission. I think in another thread I mentioned that I had a clunking sound from the tranny (on the STR) followed by a jerking feeling like you would feel on a manual down shifting to a lower gear to use the engine to brake, when comming to a stop I'd say from either gears 3-2 or 2-1. Could I have a problem? looked at some TSB and found one on the clunking sound but doesn't mention anything on a jerking feeling:

transmission_clonk.ZIP

I do need new rotors in the back, Don't now if this could be a cause just throwing it out there to hear what you guys have to say. Pretty much I seem to be experiencing the some concerns that bmw owners have, which seems about right since they use the sam ZF 6 speed auto: shifting is kinda slow and jerky at times especially while crusing at low speeds, when shifting up some times I feel sort of a slight dubble thump/jerk going from on gear to the next. Just wanted to know if these are normal with the trannys in these cars.

Another thing that I found while looking through the TSB was a buzzing noise when the ignition is turned to on:

Buzzing Knocking Ignition Switched on.ZIP 26 KB

only thing is that My car doesn't have adaptive cruise.

 

The ZF thing sounds like "the lurch"- (which is an umbrella term for lurches, yes plural. A car may have none, one or several, occurring in different situations. There's a website (google finds it) as well as threads on here - you're probably aware of them but maybe didn't realise the lurch comes in varieties.

A slight complication is that if the engine isn't quite running as it should (which you may not know unless you use OBD) it can cause autobox issues (this is true on pretty much any modern car) so at least a check of OBD (for the engine) ought to be done. (The point is that to get smooth autobox changes the engine & autobox have to know correctly what's happening to a very fine accuracy.)

I don't see how the rear rotors could be involved with this so I wouldn't worry in that regard.

Sounds like warranty could be your friend here

 

I did alot of output flange repairs when the 2003 S-Type was released. I still have a Loctite kit but Jaguar issued a new output flange to address this fault. You can still use the Loctite to tighten up the output flange. It does not cost much to try it.

bob gauff

 

Here is an updated version of this TSB.
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The reason for me to beleive that I might have a fault is because the car stalled on me one day, after hard breaking to a stop to avoid hitting the car in front of me As I was sitting there waiting for the light to turn green I noticed that the CEL was on and the car was shut off cranked it back up and imediatly the CEL disapered tried to pull up the stored fault codes as soon as possible but my elm scan tool hadn't came in the mail yet, But when I finaly got it and scaned it there werent any stored faults. I tried to recreate the scenario to see if it would stall again but didn't work.

 

A code (in the PCM) once flagged is kept for 40 (or 80) engine warm-ups (*), though the light goes off quickly. Codes in the other modules generally don't ever clear by themselves.

(*) unless cleared by an OBD tool or battery disconnect

 

By the way can any one post a link where I can get detailed info on Jaguar's select edition warranty? I've been trying the dealer for two days now but every time The receptionist redirects my call They are always busy. No luck searching the web either.

 

Try this in google (and hope it helps) - and you do need the quotes

site:Jaguar International - Market selector page "select edition"

 

Thanks for the link, unfortunantly it didn't help. It's not specific at all. Apparently now i'm leaking transmission fluid But It doesn't seem like it's coming from the pan, haven't haven't been able to jack the car up and have a look since they are both broken but I know for sure that It's leaking down the transmission mount. Called the jaguar dealer and they said that the transmission pan is covered by select edition but oil cooler lines isn't. WTF? I asked him why it wasn't he gave me some excuse that select edition waranty doesnt cover normal wear and tear repairs, Wear and tear would be things like rotors and brake that are designed and expected to wear down. So is this guy bull shittin' with me? Where els could my leak be coming from if not the pan or oil cooler lines? bad seal where the drive shaft connects to the transmission? It's not fluid being blown back the mount cuz I wiped every thing down and let it sit for about three weeks till I notice another oil stain sure enough the mount is wet.

 

Your dealer guy is straight shootin you, Had the same problem and thought it was covered..Nope. They have a clause that says anything with rubber is not covered, even a tiny bit of rubber. My cooler lines leaked right where the swagged connection goes from rubber to steel on the bend of the line, only a couple of inches. $1000.00 repair, very akward job to do.
I decided to have mine towed the forty miles to the dealer bacause driving it with continued leakage with the already low oil could result in denial of transmission coverage later, due to owner neglect.They WILL find ways to deny repairs anyway they can
I am not complaining though, have had many things fixed under the warranty, 1 denial out of about 10 things is ok by me.
Just an FYI to consider.

 

The most common ZF fluid leak on the six-speed transmissions occurs at the electrical connector plug sleeve O-ring. There are quite a few threads here on the forum that discuss this issue....

However, it sounds as if your leak is forward of that location, so perhaps it is indeed your oil cooler lines....

Let us know when you nail it down....

 

The dealer just communicated the restrictions of the warranty poorly. Basically Exterior rubber is not covered. That includes exposed lines, weather strip, molding, etc. Internal rubber gaskets are. For example, I too had a slight (very, very slight) seep of transmission fluid from the cooling lines. They said technically it wasn't covered due to the rubber thing (but did say they would claim it at the metal fitting if it got bad and fix it) and that they didn't want to risk causing more trouble in getting it out. On the other hand, when my IMT o-rings started leaking, they fixed it no problem. So, remember, internal gaskets are covered. That said, I hope the fluid leak is the connector sleeve. It would be up above the pan and may actually cause the drip down on the mount. It also would be covered as well. Remember, the sleeve is above the pan but the pan must be removed to change out the sleeve.

 

Ugh... Man I bought this car thinking I was safe since It had warranty on it. The jag tech that I spoke with over the phone about the warranty before I decided to buy the car told me It would cover pretty much every thing, I did contact another dealer (same dealer different location) and the service advisor said that all gasket leaks on the transmission WHERE covered under select edition warranty so I'm confused now, cause I got one service advisor telling me one thing and the other telling me another. I really don't want to drive 30 miles when I'm leaking transmission fluid to the dealer and hear that it doesnt cause I don't have that kind of money to put down for that repair right now, Plus traffic can be a B**ch to Atlanta. The leak doesn't seem to be very bad right I drove it around my neighborhood and doesn't seem like it's constantly comming down When I let it sit for a few weeks like three or four weeks I notice the oil stain on the garage floor at the end of that third or fourth week. Looking at my JTIS the oil cooler lines are planted on the side of the transmission closer to the engine correct? My leak is at the rear closest to the drain plug I Notice while looking with a flash light and mirror that some of the screws on the pan are wet with fluid but only the rear screws but no fluid where the pan meets the transmission so im assuming that some of it is comming from the screw holes on the gasket.

 

Damn $1000 to fix the oil cooler lines? just how hard is it to fix that? What do they do That would amount to so much? Or is it "just because it's a jag and they want to charge so much" Bull ****? I changed an oil pan gasket on an 06 S-type V6 wich wasn't hard for me and i'm no mechanic. All I needed where the right tools and I got the job done No problem. Dealer wanted over $600 for the repair. All I spent doing it my self was 60 bucks for the oil and the gasket.

 

David, really don't freak out! From what you are describing, its the electrical connection O-ring (seal) that has failed.

Think about it, you drive your vehicle forward at say 60 mph in a forward direction. The seal drips oil near the back of the passenger side transmission pan, forward momentum pushes the oil towards the rear of the transmission. You park the vehicle and the oil lets gravity work, it drips down the side of the transmision onto the couple of rear pan bolts and onto your garage floor.

As many a member here have stated, its not a constant leak, starts off a drip (spot) here and goes away for a week or so then rears its ugly head again over time. If it were the transmission lines it would be a constant leak.

Trust me, I saved a fellow member about a year ago $586.00 that a Raliegh dealer quoted him on replacing the transmission output seal. It turned out to be the electrical seal.

 

If you do a search on here you will find some threads. In an nutshell, a ton of stuff needs to be removed (front crossmember+) since many parts of the lines are metal vs rubber. So, no not BS. That said, your leak sounds like the typical signs of the sleeve. The pan itself almost never starts leaking. Get the car in the air and find the leak or just confirm it isn't the cooler lines. Follow the lines looking for leaks. If all good then make an appointment for the leak repair telling them you confirmed it isn't the cooling lines. It should be covered.

 

LOL.. Great minds think alike....

 

I agree with the other guys, your description sounds different than my cooler lines.

On our car the fluid was on the drivers side just behind the belly pan. The fluid would drip onto the pan then move along and drip out from there. I watched it for a while and it went from light dripping to heavy within a week. That is why I had it towed in, I figured at that point the fluid was probably down to a dangerous level for damage to the tranny.
I dropped the belly pan and ran the car, at that point a constant stream was leaking out.
You sound like the sleeve is leaking on yours, make sure they install a new pan which includes filter at time of repair...this is a nicw way to get the needed tranny service at your mileage. I just had this done about a month ago and the warranty covered it.

I think leaking tranny lines is JUST common enough that it should be added to the what to watch for when buying an S type list,,

BTW, if mine ever leak again( when out of warranty) I will cut the line with a tube cutter and add a longer piece of rubber hose to eliminate the leak. Didn't do this earlier because it would void an warranty on the tranny repairs going forward,

 

Yeah I'm almost sure it's electrical sleeve. at first I didn't know where the cooler lines where but now that I know there at the side and not near the top of the transmission, I just feel better knowing it's not those lines cuz the service adviser said it was gonna run me about $700+ for repair, thats not even including the fluid. Thanks for the support guys. While i'm having that leak delt with I'll have them fix that 3rd to2nd gear clunking issue that is if they don't have some excuse as to why it's not covered.

 

David if warranty won't cover the electrical sleeve, you can easily DIY since you had no problem with the other S Types oil pan gasket.