Got my intake elbow today and scheduled dyno pulls for next Friday. Stock at 1130 am and post intake at 300pm.

 

I used reflective "cool tape." I would love to show pics but I haven't figured out my iPad yet and my laptop is elsewhere for the weekend. I can send an iPhone pic to someone here if they would be willing to post the pic, please message my your cell phone number and I will text the pic. Thanks!!!

 

Got mine yesterday, thanks! I will probably be installing a K&N filter in the stock airbox. Anyone knoe a source and/or part number?

 

Parts # for the K&N panel filter is 33-2273

 

Here is my intake right after install with DEI cool tape. Its to reflect heat, I know the arguments about which heat it allegedly does and does not reflect. This is opposite of heat wrap, the wrap people usually wrap headers in to keep heat in.

 

FYI, i am going to copy you and agree with your reflective heat tape logic. unfortunately i live in AZ, and its already 105* here so there is not much incentive to install the intake. I am going to order a replacement that hose that needs to be cut before install as this is my daily driver and cant afford mistakes.

 

If anyone finds a place to order the hose that needs to be cut please fill me in. Mine is also the DD and would like to be able to return it to stock if the need ever arose.

Also, just received mine on Friday and ordering a K&N soon. Can't wait to get these new pieces on!

 

wow, I'm a little opinionated, but I think heatsoak is a joke. All the energy spent thinking of ways to wrap or reduce this should in my opinon be put into isolating the intercooling circuit. Since the car already comes with much of the gear needed, all we'd really need to add is a tank and extend some of the lines.

Here's why i think heatsoak isn't a big concern. As the car sits, after the stock intake tube, the air goes through a thick, cast piece that gets super hot. The air then goes into our "heaton" where it is heated up above 400 degrees (if I recall correctly based on the info from Avos). It then goes through the intercoolers where it is "cooled" by radiator fluid that is probably just barely cooler than the radiator fluid.

I'd definately spend the time worrying about things that would have a big impact on the quality of the intercooling before worrying about the intake elbow. I''m not just saying that because I'm selling these things either.

One thing I found recently was that my trigger wire from the snow alcohol injection unit to the pump was loose in the butt connector which was preventing the system from coming on. One of these days I'll have to rent the dyno again and see if that does make a difference. I find i hard to believe that it wouldn't do anything with how quickly the computer supposedly pulls timing due to inlet temps.

 

You're not going to find these parts for a few months. Jag is getting a new supplier for them and they're not stocked by any dealers. I already checked nationwide.

 

qwiketz, speak to us more about isolating the intercooler circuit. Where would you suggest to start, in other words, what I/C hose needs to......

 

JTIS and the tech guides show the cooling system in essence to be two: engine and SC, joined at the header/expansion tank. The SC circuit goes via the ICs (intercoolers), SC pump and SC radiator. You could keep the existing single header tank or add another. What I believe matters (especially when creating more boost) is taking more heat out before the IAT2 sensor, whether by better ICs, cooler water into the ICs, better SC pump or indeed any other way. I strongly suggest monitoring IAT2 before and after any mod to see how effective the mod is.

 

Isolating the intercooler circuit would be a good topic for another thread. I'll start it up....

 

I'm here to cash in! I brought my STR to P-Tuning in Manassas today for some stock pulls (well, with drop-in K&N air filter) and post-install of the Qwiketz tube. I was a little disappointed with the stock pull, as it came in at ~320 HP and ~317 ft/lbs.



This is the same place that dyno'd 1320racer's STR (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ication-61307/)

Anyway, it took about 45 minutes to install Russ's intake tube. I did it in the parking lot under the hot, hot sun. Damn, it was hot. Anyway, it's a tight fit. Personally I think it's maybe 1/2" too long on both ends. Here's a pic of the area where the tube meets the stock air box:



I didn't take a pic of the other end, but it was pretty much touching the other side as well. Another thing to point out is to be very careful how you position the t-bolts/clamps, especially the 3" diameter one on the supercharger end. There are a lot of hoses there and the way I initially had it installed, the round part of the t-bolt was digging into one of the hoses. In the picture here I tried to jam some electrical tape between the clamp and the hose underneath, but decided to remove it and flip the clamp so the threads point down.



So, did the install yield any gains? Well, here it is:

330HP/323 TQ



I'll probably remove it and cut off 1/4" to 1/2" on each end, but overall it's a great product that adds power across the entire band. Russ, you know my address.

 

Not bad numbers there. That's about 410 crank horsepower - pretty good!

 

goblue, the Dyno Dynamics dyno calculates hp and trq. differently and is more scrutinous than say a Mustang Dyno. So your 319 hp would likely read 335 hp on a Mustang Dyno. Mafioso posted a 13 hp gain with his intake tube with no other mods. So it's likely safe to say the air intake tube modification allows an additional 13 hp on the STR= 400 (stock) chp + 13 hp = 413. Pop on the pulley and you'l likely see 435 chp.

 

Bfsgross & Under Pressure,

Thanks, your posts made me feel better. The guys running the dyno also mentioned that the dyno dynamics is more conservative than the mustang dyno. Next IS a pulley and exhaust mod (replacing center resonator with a Borla with internal x-pipe). Expect another dyno post...

 

Thanks for posting. The check will go out Tuesday. Your stock numbers are a little bit low but you seem to be inline with what I've seen so far. I've been advertising 12 to 15 hp, so you're right there. Thanks for posting your installation advice as well.

 

To gain a perspective what a 15 horsepower gain is: Compare the power of a 5 hp push mower to that of a 20 hp riding mower. The air intake tube does wonders.

 

Working on my install today. I am going to remove 3/4" from the airbox side to facilitate installation.

ps. the airbox lid is a biotch!

 

Update: Considering how dirty the Fram filter I removed was, etc. Butt Dyno says good for 15hp. Low end grunt improved as well.

Happy camper!