Qwiketz intake elbow thread including pics and dyno charts
#61
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay... So this is going to be an anticlimactic response.
So today I did get the car on the dyno. The two baseline runs came in at 295 and 297 rwhp. I was very surprised and pissed to say the least. This did however confirm my low 1/8 mile trap speed of 83 when I went to the drags the last two times. I seriously thought that if this car had 400 hp, they were tiny ponies.
I then swapped in the aftermarket prototype intake and it went to 342 and then 338 hp. I couldnt believe it and the dyno guy couldn't believe it.
Well, when I got home, I found one of the restrictions in my intake tract. The prior owner of my car put one of those intake vertex type deals in there that swirl the air. It was cutting down the area of the intake; as many people know, positive displacement blowers hate intake restrictions.
Those runs were without alcohol injection. The air to fuel ratio was surprisingly lean. The baseline was about 12:1 and the modified run had a moment where it was almost disastrously lean at 13:1.
After those runs, I plugged the fuse back into the alcohol injection system to add a little fuel. It did not add any hp or reduce hp, but it should make the car more consistent. I'm using a blend of half boost juice and half water. After seeing the results, I may go with straight boost juice.
So, the intake elbow definitely added hp, but I'm not sure how much due to my car's crappy starting condition.
One thing for certain, this car absolutely wails and screams now. The eaton sounds 100 hp more mean than it is now. Turn up the sound on the video!!!!!
So today I did get the car on the dyno. The two baseline runs came in at 295 and 297 rwhp. I was very surprised and pissed to say the least. This did however confirm my low 1/8 mile trap speed of 83 when I went to the drags the last two times. I seriously thought that if this car had 400 hp, they were tiny ponies.
I then swapped in the aftermarket prototype intake and it went to 342 and then 338 hp. I couldnt believe it and the dyno guy couldn't believe it.
Well, when I got home, I found one of the restrictions in my intake tract. The prior owner of my car put one of those intake vertex type deals in there that swirl the air. It was cutting down the area of the intake; as many people know, positive displacement blowers hate intake restrictions.
Those runs were without alcohol injection. The air to fuel ratio was surprisingly lean. The baseline was about 12:1 and the modified run had a moment where it was almost disastrously lean at 13:1.
After those runs, I plugged the fuse back into the alcohol injection system to add a little fuel. It did not add any hp or reduce hp, but it should make the car more consistent. I'm using a blend of half boost juice and half water. After seeing the results, I may go with straight boost juice.
So, the intake elbow definitely added hp, but I'm not sure how much due to my car's crappy starting condition.
One thing for certain, this car absolutely wails and screams now. The eaton sounds 100 hp more mean than it is now. Turn up the sound on the video!!!!!
#62
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay... So this is going to be an anticlimactic response.
So today I did get the car on the dyno. The two baseline runs came in at 295 and 297 rwhp. I was very surprised and pissed to say the least. This did however confirm my low 1/8 mile trap speed of 83 when I went to the drags the last two times. I seriously thought that if this car had 400 hp, they were tiny ponies.
I then swapped in the aftermarket prototype intake and it went to 342 and then 338 hp. I couldnt believe it and the dyno guy couldn't believe it.
Well, when I got home, I found one of the restrictions in my intake tract. The prior owner of my car put one of those intake vertex type deals in there that swirl the air. It was cutting down the area of the intake; as many people know, positive displacement blowers hate intake restrictions.
Those runs were without alcohol injection. The air to fuel ratio was surprisingly lean. The baseline was about 12:1 and the modified run had a moment where it was almost disastrously lean at 13:1.
After those runs, I plugged the fuse back into the alcohol injection system to add a little fuel. It did not add any hp or reduce hp, but it should make the car more consistent. I'm using a blend of half boost juice and half water. After seeing the results, I may go with straight boost juice.
So, the intake elbow definitely added hp, but I'm not sure how much due to my car's crappy starting condition.
One thing for certain, this car absolutely wails and screams now. The eaton sounds 100 hp more mean than it is now. Turn up the sound on the video!!!!!
So today I did get the car on the dyno. The two baseline runs came in at 295 and 297 rwhp. I was very surprised and pissed to say the least. This did however confirm my low 1/8 mile trap speed of 83 when I went to the drags the last two times. I seriously thought that if this car had 400 hp, they were tiny ponies.
I then swapped in the aftermarket prototype intake and it went to 342 and then 338 hp. I couldnt believe it and the dyno guy couldn't believe it.
Well, when I got home, I found one of the restrictions in my intake tract. The prior owner of my car put one of those intake vertex type deals in there that swirl the air. It was cutting down the area of the intake; as many people know, positive displacement blowers hate intake restrictions.
Those runs were without alcohol injection. The air to fuel ratio was surprisingly lean. The baseline was about 12:1 and the modified run had a moment where it was almost disastrously lean at 13:1.
After those runs, I plugged the fuse back into the alcohol injection system to add a little fuel. It did not add any hp or reduce hp, but it should make the car more consistent. I'm using a blend of half boost juice and half water. After seeing the results, I may go with straight boost juice.
So, the intake elbow definitely added hp, but I'm not sure how much due to my car's crappy starting condition.
One thing for certain, this car absolutely wails and screams now. The eaton sounds 100 hp more mean than it is now. Turn up the sound on the video!!!!!
#63
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You're description mirrors my response after placing in the Mafioso intake; high pitch whine and in conjunction with hi flow cats...noticeable increase in throttle response. I'd bet traction control inhiibited your dyno results and your nearer to 400 rwhp than you think.
#64
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I"m really not sure if the traction control caused issues. We were hitting some type of limiter at close to redline. It was a bit short of redline, so I'm not sure if the tach was off or what.
I did not upload the video. I'm not sure how to do so. Maybe you guys can help. It is under youtube "russriggs" or jaguar s type r intake tube. You guys can also see my corvette stuff on there as well.
Here's some photos and the dyno sheet....
I did not upload the video. I'm not sure how to do so. Maybe you guys can help. It is under youtube "russriggs" or jaguar s type r intake tube. You guys can also see my corvette stuff on there as well.
Here's some photos and the dyno sheet....
#65
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm going to be doing a run of these in the next week or so. I'm going to do about 6 or 8 of them, so if you're interested, just let me know via post or pm. Final pricing will depend on options. I've ordered the stock jaguar fittings but they're backordered across the country. They're about $20 each and I don't know the cost to polish the tube. So, depending on if I can get the fittings and if you want it polished, the cost will probably be between $200 and $250, shipped. This will include the stainless tube, reinforced silicone connectors and t bolt clamps. If I can use the jag fitting to the cam cover, it will make for a less than 2 minute install. This part should make 10 hp at the rear wheels conservatively based on what we've seen. In addition, this thing makes the eaton sound louder when in boost. But, as I mentioned, my numbers are inflated on my car due to the crappy starting point.
Also, the first two people that buy one off me and dyno their car will receive a $50 check in the mail. My dyno wasn't representative of what this will do so I have to pay someone else. I also couldn't find a local s type r, so this is the best I can do to validate my claims.
I will also give a $25 discount to the first person that buys one to test fit this thing with the stock airbox. It definitely should work fine but I just want to verify. The silicone sleeves give some wiggle room but I need to verify because I don't want to have unhappy forum members! I will ship this one first, and once confirmed ship to the other members. If adjustments need to be made, I will make those prior to shipping to all of the other members.
With all of this being said, who wants one?
Also, the first two people that buy one off me and dyno their car will receive a $50 check in the mail. My dyno wasn't representative of what this will do so I have to pay someone else. I also couldn't find a local s type r, so this is the best I can do to validate my claims.
I will also give a $25 discount to the first person that buys one to test fit this thing with the stock airbox. It definitely should work fine but I just want to verify. The silicone sleeves give some wiggle room but I need to verify because I don't want to have unhappy forum members! I will ship this one first, and once confirmed ship to the other members. If adjustments need to be made, I will make those prior to shipping to all of the other members.
With all of this being said, who wants one?
#66
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You're description mirrors my response after placing in the Mafioso intake; high pitch whine and in conjunction with hi flow cats...noticeable increase in throttle response. I'd bet traction control inhiibited your dyno results and your nearer to 400 rwhp than you think.
man, words cannot explain how loud this thing screams. I have the cam cover/decorative cover removed, snakebite, and now the intake tube. You can't even hear my magnaflow exahaust with how loud this thing is. It's awesome!!!!
#67
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well I guess this will put an end to the claims from Steigemeyer that this ported/re-geared Eaton will add 75 HP, as a good stock car would already dyno around 330...
But if you can let me show more from the dyno run, I can maybe give some comments that might help in understanding. I’ll take it the output is SAE corrected? Did you put the gear into 4th? What was the boost pressure?
I also think the filter you use is too small, the Eaton is working much harder, and you do get more air into the engine, although most of that extra power is lost due to the inefficiencies of the supercharger itself, so that is why you see less gain at the wheels.
If you want to test the intake design, the easiest way to do it yourself is to measure the intake vacuum at the TB, so the lower the better, this way you can also check what filter woul dbe best. Do you have any measurements?
When I did some testing, I could see that there is also something to gain in the bend from the aluminum intake piece that goes onto the TB. I put a large 90 degree silicon pipe there and connected it with pipes as you use to the stock airfliter box. It’s crowded back there, and I forgot what ID the bend had, but I could clearly see the vacuum drop. Never made anything though I had the car to short, and manufacturing a good piece there may take some work.
PS Good work though!
But if you can let me show more from the dyno run, I can maybe give some comments that might help in understanding. I’ll take it the output is SAE corrected? Did you put the gear into 4th? What was the boost pressure?
I also think the filter you use is too small, the Eaton is working much harder, and you do get more air into the engine, although most of that extra power is lost due to the inefficiencies of the supercharger itself, so that is why you see less gain at the wheels.
If you want to test the intake design, the easiest way to do it yourself is to measure the intake vacuum at the TB, so the lower the better, this way you can also check what filter woul dbe best. Do you have any measurements?
When I did some testing, I could see that there is also something to gain in the bend from the aluminum intake piece that goes onto the TB. I put a large 90 degree silicon pipe there and connected it with pipes as you use to the stock airfliter box. It’s crowded back there, and I forgot what ID the bend had, but I could clearly see the vacuum drop. Never made anything though I had the car to short, and manufacturing a good piece there may take some work.
PS Good work though!
#68
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well I guess this will put an end to the claims from Steigemeyer that this ported/re-geared Eaton will add 75 HP, as a good stock car would already dyno around 330...
But if you can let me show more from the dyno run, I can maybe give some comments that might help in understanding. I’ll take it the output is SAE corrected? Did you put the gear into 4th? What was the boost pressure?
I also think the filter you use is too small, the Eaton is working much harder, and you do get more air into the engine, although most of that extra power is lost due to the inefficiencies of the supercharger itself, so that is why you see less gain at the wheels.
If you want to test the intake design, the easiest way to do it yourself is to measure the intake vacuum at the TB, so the lower the better, this way you can also check what filter woul dbe best. Do you have any measurements?
When I did some testing, I could see that there is also something to gain in the bend from the aluminum intake piece that goes onto the TB. I put a large 90 degree silicon pipe there and connected it with pipes as you use to the stock airfliter box. It’s crowded back there, and I forgot what ID the bend had, but I could clearly see the vacuum drop. Never made anything though I had the car to short, and manufacturing a good piece there may take some work.
PS Good work though!
But if you can let me show more from the dyno run, I can maybe give some comments that might help in understanding. I’ll take it the output is SAE corrected? Did you put the gear into 4th? What was the boost pressure?
I also think the filter you use is too small, the Eaton is working much harder, and you do get more air into the engine, although most of that extra power is lost due to the inefficiencies of the supercharger itself, so that is why you see less gain at the wheels.
If you want to test the intake design, the easiest way to do it yourself is to measure the intake vacuum at the TB, so the lower the better, this way you can also check what filter woul dbe best. Do you have any measurements?
When I did some testing, I could see that there is also something to gain in the bend from the aluminum intake piece that goes onto the TB. I put a large 90 degree silicon pipe there and connected it with pipes as you use to the stock airfliter box. It’s crowded back there, and I forgot what ID the bend had, but I could clearly see the vacuum drop. Never made anything though I had the car to short, and manufacturing a good piece there may take some work.
PS Good work though!
I do think that the airfilter may be a restriction point. My car is otherwise running fine, so this was one of the last variables. In addition, the air filter looked really dirty. I just ran out of dyno time. I was going to run it withou an air filter to see what the difference was.
I also agree, that the vaccum gauge would be the best way to see what this intake really did. However, versus stock, it's got to be night and day. Hopefully, once I sell another one they'll go and get it dyno'd to see what it'll do. Also, they tried to log boost, but the vaccum source they tried wasn't seeing boost; just vacuum.
#69
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good work qwiketz. I'm/we're not certain what comprises the Snake Bite, but the 3 lb pulley, Mafioso air intake tube, and Magnaflow cats and x-pipe definitely opened up the horsepower can on this motor. We've discussed the ECU tune and up in the air wether a tune is necessary, but I believe we must find out. I'll be porting the blower and then an ECU tune, or in reverse (ECU tune then port).
#70
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
@Bfgross,
What is you current power level? It would benift also others to know what the mods you have now could bring, and I would think for yourself also, and a run is done quickly/cheap enough.
@qwiketz
Haven't hinted that the stock box would be better, just that the filter you use now might not flow enough, causing more vacuum, and thus power loss.
The power the Eaton consumes comes from the positive presure after the SC, plus the vacuum before forces added together, this equals to a specific force, spinning the unit faster, will then also increase the power used. This is why it is so important to minimize the vacuum as much as possible, as that immidiately frees up power ;-).
Remember also that putting a different filter/MAF in different tube then stock, you alter the air flow, and that influences the MAF readings.
So if you make any changes, best to always run the car for 100 miles or so, so that the ECU can adapt to the different readings as much as possible.
I have also tested without K&N panel filter and that also lowered the vacuum again, but this was on a STR with the twin-screw, so already pulling more air then stock (K&N would be a good improvement for a stock car). But you might not notice a power difference on a dyno if not using a filter, as the airflow will be altered over the MAF sensor and that one will give then very erratic values, and that influences the power.
Is there nowhere room anymore in the fender or so for a larger cone filter? Or in the front bumper area?
It might be worth next time to put also a large 90 degree silicon tube on the TB, not just to measure vacuum, but also power.
What is you current power level? It would benift also others to know what the mods you have now could bring, and I would think for yourself also, and a run is done quickly/cheap enough.
@qwiketz
Haven't hinted that the stock box would be better, just that the filter you use now might not flow enough, causing more vacuum, and thus power loss.
The power the Eaton consumes comes from the positive presure after the SC, plus the vacuum before forces added together, this equals to a specific force, spinning the unit faster, will then also increase the power used. This is why it is so important to minimize the vacuum as much as possible, as that immidiately frees up power ;-).
Remember also that putting a different filter/MAF in different tube then stock, you alter the air flow, and that influences the MAF readings.
So if you make any changes, best to always run the car for 100 miles or so, so that the ECU can adapt to the different readings as much as possible.
I have also tested without K&N panel filter and that also lowered the vacuum again, but this was on a STR with the twin-screw, so already pulling more air then stock (K&N would be a good improvement for a stock car). But you might not notice a power difference on a dyno if not using a filter, as the airflow will be altered over the MAF sensor and that one will give then very erratic values, and that influences the power.
Is there nowhere room anymore in the fender or so for a larger cone filter? Or in the front bumper area?
It might be worth next time to put also a large 90 degree silicon tube on the TB, not just to measure vacuum, but also power.
#71
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'd like to run an elbow and do a larger cone in the fender but it will require some cutting. I'm going to move onto the suspension after this project is finished.
#72
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm going to be doing a run of these in the next week or so. I'm going to do about 6 or 8 of them, so if you're interested, just let me know via post or pm. Final pricing will depend on options. I've ordered the stock jaguar fittings but they're backordered across the country. They're about $20 each and I don't know the cost to polish the tube. So, depending on if I can get the fittings and if you want it polished, the cost will probably be between $200 and $250, shipped. This will include the stainless tube, reinforced silicone connectors and t bolt clamps. If I can use the jag fitting to the cam cover, it will make for a less than 2 minute install. This part should make 10 hp at the rear wheels conservatively based on what we've seen. In addition, this thing makes the eaton sound louder when in boost. But, as I mentioned, my numbers are inflated on my car due to the crappy starting point.
Also, the first two people that buy one off me and dyno their car will receive a $50 check in the mail. My dyno wasn't representative of what this will do so I have to pay someone else. I also couldn't find a local s type r, so this is the best I can do to validate my claims.
I will also give a $25 discount to the first person that buys one to test fit this thing with the stock airbox. It definitely should work fine but I just want to verify. The silicone sleeves give some wiggle room but I need to verify because I don't want to have unhappy forum members! I will ship this one first, and once confirmed ship to the other members. If adjustments need to be made, I will make those prior to shipping to all of the other members.
With all of this being said, who wants one?
Also, the first two people that buy one off me and dyno their car will receive a $50 check in the mail. My dyno wasn't representative of what this will do so I have to pay someone else. I also couldn't find a local s type r, so this is the best I can do to validate my claims.
I will also give a $25 discount to the first person that buys one to test fit this thing with the stock airbox. It definitely should work fine but I just want to verify. The silicone sleeves give some wiggle room but I need to verify because I don't want to have unhappy forum members! I will ship this one first, and once confirmed ship to the other members. If adjustments need to be made, I will make those prior to shipping to all of the other members.
With all of this being said, who wants one?
#73
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Avos, No dyno but she sure knows how to boogie. Butt Dyno suggests around 380 rwhp. A blower port will likely yield more ponies from flow and reduction of air intake temps.
#74
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I forgot to mention this.. Related to my post about the snakebite, you can definitely feel the increased mid range power due to it spinning faster sooner, but the top end doesn't really increase much. I'm guessing that it's due to the high discharge temps of the eaton. This is somewhat supported by my torque figures on the dyno. I think it may have added a little torque more so than hp. I think torque was at 360 ish.
The snakebite is essentially the same as a blower port and 3 lb pulley; the internal gears are modified to increase the blower speed instead of using the pulleys.
The snakebite is essentially the same as a blower port and 3 lb pulley; the internal gears are modified to increase the blower speed instead of using the pulleys.
#76
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm going to be doing a run of these in the next week or so. I'm going to do about 6 or 8 of them, so if you're interested, just let me know via post or pm. Final pricing will depend on options. I've ordered the stock jaguar fittings but they're backordered across the country. They're about $20 each and I don't know the cost to polish the tube. So, depending on if I can get the fittings and if you want it polished, the cost will probably be between $200 and $250, shipped. This will include the stainless tube, reinforced silicone connectors and t bolt clamps. If I can use the jag fitting to the cam cover, it will make for a less than 2 minute install. This part should make 10 hp at the rear wheels conservatively based on what we've seen. In addition, this thing makes the eaton sound louder when in boost. But, as I mentioned, my numbers are inflated on my car due to the crappy starting point.
Also, the first two people that buy one off me and dyno their car will receive a $50 check in the mail. My dyno wasn't representative of what this will do so I have to pay someone else. I also couldn't find a local s type r, so this is the best I can do to validate my claims.
I will also give a $25 discount to the first person that buys one to test fit this thing with the stock airbox. It definitely should work fine but I just want to verify. The silicone sleeves give some wiggle room but I need to verify because I don't want to have unhappy forum members! I will ship this one first, and once confirmed ship to the other members. If adjustments need to be made, I will make those prior to shipping to all of the other members.
With all of this being said, who wants one?
Also, the first two people that buy one off me and dyno their car will receive a $50 check in the mail. My dyno wasn't representative of what this will do so I have to pay someone else. I also couldn't find a local s type r, so this is the best I can do to validate my claims.
I will also give a $25 discount to the first person that buys one to test fit this thing with the stock airbox. It definitely should work fine but I just want to verify. The silicone sleeves give some wiggle room but I need to verify because I don't want to have unhappy forum members! I will ship this one first, and once confirmed ship to the other members. If adjustments need to be made, I will make those prior to shipping to all of the other members.
With all of this being said, who wants one?
Had my stock STR dyno'd @ Paramount performance, a well respected jaguar tuner over here in the UK and it came out @ 385 bhp they said this to be about average for a standard STR.
Then had their downloadable re map done and it came out @ 404 bhp, after a few weeks went for the upper pulley modification this was the 1.5 lb pulley ran this for a while to let the re map settle in and re learn and had it dyno'd again and came out @ 434 bhp.
Would be interested in trying out the intake elbow and getting another dyno run done... although possible shipping and import duties might make this prohibitive ?
Regards Lee.
#77
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, when I got home, I found one of the restrictions in my intake tract. The prior owner of my car put one of those intake vertex type deals in there that swirl the air. It was cutting down the area of the intake; as many people know, positive displacement blowers hate intake restrictions.
#78
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...2130.21j5.27.0.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gjr5...WRcI3bJFOS2_uM=
Last edited by joycesjag; 04-09-2012 at 01:48 AM. Reason: added direct youtube video
#79
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Icon Razz](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
Come on bfgross, get some real numbers to back up your guesstimates.
#80
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay, so far I have a few members that have contacted me to pick one of these up. The pricing isn't final and I'm waiting on my Jag dealer to give me a definitive answer on the breather fittings. That's one of the last things to do/get so I'll be ordering the rest of the materials Monday. So if you're interested, let me know and I'll update the list. Cost should be around $200-250 shipped(in the USA) and I'll have more info on that at the end of this upcoming week. The variables on that are cost to polish them and the breather fittings. ETA on getting these shipped is probably 2 weeks with them shipping out on the 21st. I'm in Vegas for a trade show at the beginning of that week so when I get back, I'm hoping to be able to pick them up from the polishing shop.
So far, members that have expressed interest are:
1. v8 str
2. dvsadam
3. styper2003
I also need to figure out cost to ship to the UK and Canada. I'll update the thread as I get the info.
So far, members that have expressed interest are:
1. v8 str
2. dvsadam
3. styper2003
I also need to figure out cost to ship to the UK and Canada. I'll update the thread as I get the info.
Last edited by qwiketz; 04-07-2012 at 08:04 PM.