Totally, I was pissed when the car only trapped at 83 in the 1/8. The new benz c63(450 hp) was running at about 93! I figured I'd be running around 90-92 with my mods. I've had the elbow off before, but the vertex thing was way in there to the point where you wouldn't even see it unless you were really looking at the part in detail.

I could re-dyno, but I'd almost rather contribute to someone else dyno'ing their stock type r. I think the results would be a better representation of what this thing will do.

 

Now that I got this done, I want to head to the local track, but they went bankrupt in January. I'm probably going to have to go down to San Diego to race now.

 

I'm with ya steveM. My hp #'s are guesses based on others with same mods who dynoed and ran the 1/4. Though it's still anecdotal, I'll tell you this wether you believe it or not, my 03 STR as it sits has taken stock SS Camaro 's, etc. off the line and through the 1/4. styper1380 has the same mods and runs a 12.8 1/4 and an approx. 4.7 0-60 mph. Where I hail dynoes and tracks are not easibly accessable. Though it's hearsay, today she ran up a long steep grade at 130 mph with plenty more steam on tap. I was truelly amazed at this feat whilst she wanted to do more but the run eventually ran into a sharp corner. Later in the day whilst cruising at 80 mph, I punched it and ran her to 150 mph in lickety split. She didn't wheeze to 150, she banged it out promptly without a bit of trouble or trepidation. This activity wasn't evident when in stock trim. One of my patients has an identical STR in stock trim...she walks his STR like a gross mismatch. I'm working on another mod (port blower) and then will try her out on a track.

 

Am certain you will not have this power, but that's not the point. It’s about learning your car (power levels in different rpms and a/f ratio), and about being able to verify if future situations/mods are working as they should. Then a base dyno now will prove invaluable.


Remember qwiketz blower spins faster than yours and it is already ported...


Back to the intake:
@qwiketz
Imo it's indeed better to dyno another car with your new intake tube, as with your supercharger setup (so higher suction from the supercharger) there could be another bottle neck (as mentioned) that could deminish the results. Then again if all bottlenecks are deatl with, the total gain might be much better again.

 

Here you go.


Qwiketz Jaguar S type R intake elbow dyno run - YouTube

 

qwiketz, she sounds cool and powerful. The whine is very similar to mine with the 3 lb pulley, Mafioso intake, and Magnaflow cats, etc. Avos, In comparison to qwiketz blower, mine is not ported but runs the 3 lb pulley. The SnakeBite is geared to that of a 3 lb pulley, making mine and qwiketz blowers having similar "Spin". Qwiketz is realizing the obvious increase in power and torque an uncorked and wound up 4.2 s/c produces, validifying my hp/trq estimates. The low and midrange are especially impressive, pulls like a big block. My doctors office is neighbors with both Chevrolet and Dodge dealerships. The staff periodically takes the V8's for spins down the blvd. It's here where we have chance encounters. The STR almost always takes them off the line and thereafter. We talk and almost always comes up the line summarized as: "She's a torquey bitch". IMO, these mods necessitate a "Chiller Killer", and/or alky injection, and an ECU tune to "Draw out" the final product.

 

Am not trying to pull your leg, but you don't have to listen either, so I’ll leave it.

 

Thanks for inserting the video. I'm not the best with the computer. My brother is an IT guy so I always had that crutch to help me out!

 

is this a one time production run? or will this be available throughout the year? I would like to be a second mover on procuring this and see its durability after a few months of you guys using it. The mafioso intake turned me off after hearing that certain areas were ripping and causing issues. This is my sole DD and would like a headache and worry free drive to work/life everyday .

 

It's probably going to be a one time deal since I'm going to be pretty busy over the next year (kitchen remodel, getting married, buying a house...).

I'm using 4 ply reinforced silicone connectors. I've never had a problem with one of these tearing. These things are really strong. I heard that the prior run was using the cheapo unreinforced rubber ones. Maybe some one can chime in on this.

Also, this part is out of stainless which off the bat is more durable than aluminum. Finally, I'm trying to use the oem jag fitting if I can get my hands on them so all in all, this part should be superior other than the ceramic paint which is debatable if it even results in anything quantifiable.

 

That fan in the dyno video is useless how they have it. It's supposed to blow at the front where the radiators are. I'm surprised a dyno shop would be so ignorant.

 

Upon qwiketz suggestion, I contacted airintakehoses.com (Washington State) for the reinforced silicon air intake tube connectors. They're both affordable ($33) and definitely up to the task.

 

those are the ones that are included. They're very strong and once again, I've never seen one burst, even under boosted conditions.

 

You're definitely on the right track there. A longer (and cleaner) conical filter is in order for this application.

 

Here's the update. The stock fittings are out of stock at jag. Jaguar is trying to find a new supplier so there's none available at the current time and not any eta on when they will be available. So I will ship the tubes with the 1/2" hose and hose clamps to fit to the stock fitting once the hose is cut. If you need to return it back to stock that is still possible.

Pricing is now set. For the tube polished $240 and for the stainless unpolished $215. This price includes shipping in the usa. I will ship outside of the us but I'll have to check the pricing.

The eta on shipping of the tubes will be right around 4/21. If there are any delays either with the welding work or polishing, they'll ship toward the begginning or middle of the week after.

I'm going to do a run of 10 of these so let me know if you want one. I'm also going to sell a few through my local independent jag guy so they should go fast.

 

I'm not sure of the number of plys in the Mafioso version, however I can say that they are pretty stout connectors and feel like a silicone type substance more than rubber. I haven't had any issues with tearing on the connectors or the valve cover connection.

Great job on putting this together by the way - wishing you the best of luck!

 

Cash in hand for a non-polished one sir. we can take this to private messages for more details.

i am probably over analyzing, but which stock hose is cut? do you have pics or any more info on this process?

 

Chris, you mave recieved different Mafioso connectors than I. Mine were rubber and appeared to have no reinforced ribbing. The airintakehose.com set is an entirely different material.

 

qwiketz, I'm a semi-literate newbie from Vancouver BC Canada. I want my 2005 STR to sound just like the one on the dyno! Here's my plan for air intake:

Use stock air-box.
Remove air intake baffle.
Install air filter from Paramount in the UK.
Use non-polished quiketz tube.
Heat-wrap for insulation.
Hope for 5-10 HP increase.

Two quick questions and I'll be ready to roll:

1.. Can I pay you with Paypal? I'd be glad to absorb any Paypal charges to ensure you're not out-of-pocket.

2.. I'm nervous about cutting a tube which is now out of stock at Jaguar. What problems would there be in returning to the original OEM setup?

 

Here's some common questions:

Hey Russ, still interested on getting in on this production run, just wanted to clarify a couple of things before fully going ahead with it.

First question I have is have you test fit it to a stock box to ensure proper fitment? I don't intend to run a cone filter, rather the stock box with the K&N filter I have in there currently.

Second question is, are additional parts going to be required, or are all the fittings included to make this a plug and play modifcation?

Also, do you happen to have any pictures of polished vs. non? I think non is the way to go because polished may get fingerprints/dirtier easier. Although I imagine polished would look a lot better under the hood![/quote]

No problem on the questions. Here we go:

Yes, it is intended to work with the stock airbox. I made the tube about 1/2" shorter than the stock piece so that there is not only a little frexibility when the motor torques over but also so that the additional distance is covered by the reinforced silicone couplers. I'm going to test fit it prior to shipping out any of the international orders. I'm working on getting a member here in the southwest to confirm fitiment with prior to completing the production run.

There is only one fitting that is needed and it's already on your car. On the top of the driver's side cam cover (normally thought of as a valve cover) the breather hose is all that you'll need to use. If you look at it, off the fitting, there is about a half inch and then a ridge. I cut mine off at the ridge with a pair of scissors. When installing the tube, you just slide the 1/2" hose (included) over the fitting and tighten down the included hose clamp. Then you're done. I installed mine on the dyno from 100% stock in less than 5 minutes. I wanted to supply the fitting, but not a single jag dealer in the us has one in stock and there is no eta on when they will become available as jag is looking for a new supplier.

The stainless looks okay as it comes but it looks much better polished. I was talking to a metal finishing guy and he said that once you have the original polish on stainless, it's not too hard to keep it shiny. I'm personally going that route because it looks great and once this thing is in, I'm not going to be touching it for a long while.

I do not have any photos of it polished yet, but I'll let you know once I get some.

Anyhow, just let me know if you have any more questions!

thanks,

Russ