Hey! Well I was driving today and the rad started steaming so it's knackered, I tried getting it out but seems impossible, Does anyone have a guide maybe with pictures on how to get it out?

Thanks!

 

Grab JTIS from here. Consider getting Jag World Magazine issue a while ago about rad. Definitely fill iin your car details in UserCP please

 

Tiger it would be noce to know what year model and engine! PLEASE see my signature.

This is not everything required but about the only thing we have here.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...nt-leak-81519/

 

Sorry it's the 2.5 auto (2002), Cant believe that oil is the precious atf :-( spilt loads :-(, I just cant seem to get the wiring off the fan there isnt a plug at the back of the motor, I hate Jags....

 

Any ideas about getting the wiring off the fan motor?

 

Post #2

 

Whats JTIS and where do I find it?

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...archive-66031/

 

Well worth trying the Search feature any time you have a query

 

well incase anyone cares I managed to split the rad from the ac rad eventually and without the jtis thing which just crashes when I click on anything, Just got to order a new one, Bolt it on and hope for the best, Oh and hope I havent spilt too much overpriced atf fluid, To add to the that the car is only worth about £800, The wheels are worth more, sometimes you just gotta wonder why bother!

 

The ZF Lifeguard fluid has come down a lot in price. In the US we can get it for about $17/liter which is not too bad.

The JTIS and the JEPC are really mandatory if you want to DIY. Makes ordering parts a lot easier.
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Yeah it's still about £24 a litre here (Equates to about 500 us dollars lol,) anyway it's not the cost of the fluid it's the fact I can imagine it being a pain getting it back in with limited lifting tools and not liking crawling around the floor under the thing!, Still cant get JTIS working it loads fine then when I click on something I just get 'this program has stopped working' and I have to click 'close the program', Any ideas? Just to add to that I am computer literate (Im only 24 so grew up with them) but dont know why it would crash on my, Any help welcomed :-)

Also in a better mood now im inside and dry and not plastered in atf and old coolant!

 

Anyone?

 

Tiger,
Sorry I didn't see this one yesterday. No help to you on JTIS as I have the disc and can't manage to get it to work since all my computers migrated to Windows 7. I did, however manage a radiator remove and reinstall on a 2003 3.0L US spec car.

Here is a link to a public photobucket folder with all of my S-Type pics. I think the first 5 or 6 pages are from the Rad change. May be of some help.

S_Type Mechanicals pictures by holbrz1 - Photobucket


I had grand plans to try to do a how-to but best-laid plans and all that....(and FWIW, don't know about the success of my venture - I renewed the radiator which was leaking, and the DCCV for good measure, had replaced the overflow tank last year and the upper rad hose asy 4 yrs ago - so should be good - but my daughter drove it 6 hrs back to LA and after about a week of short trips it has had 3 "low-coolant light" pops with a few ounces top-up each time)

Hitting the high-points from memory:
(I had the front end up on ramps)

Pull top cover
pull air-box/hoses
Pull undertray, bottom air deflector and radiator air deflector
Drain radiator at petcock
A/C Condenser and pwr strng cooler are mounted to radiator - do not have to remove them but you must remove their fixings. I used a combo of bailing wire and zip-ties to hold them in situ.
Pull Expansion coolant tank and set it aside.
I did not have need of disconnecting fan wiring. Remove fan-shroud fixing bolts and lift it up high enough to clear lower clips, then lay it back against engine. (more wire or zip ties useful here)
Remove hose connections on both sides of Rad.
Remove xmsn cooling lines (I capped the lines with vinyl caps and drained the radiator into a container after removal and estimate I lost about 2 mouthwash cycles worth - didn't bother with any replacement fluid)
Remove top radiator mounting plates

This is the skill part - "fix tongue and lower lip just so" expel any excess and/or uncomfortable gas from alimentary canal and lift rad while simultaneously pushing aft and working/rocking it. I believe I lifted the right side higher to get it out...kind of diagonally. The real problem is the a/c line interfering with lower hose nipple on back of the rad vs. the a/c condenser tube mounting block and mounting features molded into the side tank on the front of the rad. Same issue when putting the new one back in. It is a tight fit.

I won't recommend it...but will tell you I took a couple of large channel lock pliers and "Tweaked" the a/c line a bit after several attempts to remove the rad. failed....should've probably bent it back after installing the new one because it was tough to get the lower hose clamp re-installed - you'll see it in the pics...but managed it, so left it alone.

 

Thanks aholbro but you are just a day too late although I appreciate reading it back and finding out that what I did so must be right (Ish) I think my way was a touch more crude than yours and quite a lot more violent than yours, It onvolved me damaging the old rads plastic clips and such to the point of no return, Anyway it needs replacing so no bother! I also didnt remove the lower scud tray but its not neccesary to get the thing out anyway only if you want to catch the coolant (Which by the time I got that far I couldnt care less about coolant on the drive!)

Not the easiest of jobs I must admit without guidance on the lower bolts at the front but done nonetheless and just waiting on a new rad now so I can have all that fun again in reverse!

Thanks again though aholbro im sure your info will be handy to people that come across this thread :-)

 

I think you can get it much cheaper - try LR or others.

If JTIS files are there you can read them by hand. Pretty painful but they're text files (SGML) and open any images in any viewer.