I've been through this ordeal on a number of vehicles, most recently the rear pads on the SAAB.

My solution - crack bleeder, and PUSH as hard as you freaking can until either your ulna is going to snap in half or the piston goes in, and keep turning at the same time. For whatever reason, sometimes if you can get past this initial push, then the rest is relatively easy/normal. Try not to hurt yourself....I say this but I always break that rule.

Last time on the SAAB I positioned the caliper against the coil springs so it was semi-wedged and provided a strong rear support to push against. Then put all of my weight into the socket wrench/cube and there she went.

I hate having to ham-fist things like that but sometimes it is the best alternative (at least in my case).

Not sure if this will work for ya, but as I said earlier it has worked for me on a number of vehicles, mostly SAABs. My X Type was kind of like this, but you did spin the pistons in the opposite direction from side to side.

 

From the sound of it, Cliff is using the bleeder screw method and he's on his fourth caliper. If the fluid level is somewhat depleted from wear as you surmise, AND if he doesn't want to bother with bleeding the system when done, it would still be prudent to check the level rather than assume all is well and introduce air into the system.

Good point about the vent...means compression of air wouldn't cause the problem he is experiencing, however, if he's diligent and tops up his fluids as the pads wear as some (many?) do, hydraulic lock could still be a problem if using the non-bleeder method. Not likely here, as he appears to be porting it overboard via the bleeders, but if others are using the other method, maybe don't discount the cap so quickly?

Mikey, you should replace your cap if it doesn't have a diaphram between the vent and the fluid....you'be runnin' moisture-contaminated fluid otherwise.

 

If would change it- if that were true.

 

There is also the possibility of an old flex line that has deteriorated and gone one way. ie. passes fluid in one direction only.

Or, since the caliper was out and being held by hand, maybe the hose was kinked.

 

Keep us posted on your progress, Cliff....

When I change our rear pads in a couple of months or less, I plan to use the local Autozone's loaner kit that is very similar to what Zane has shown in his posts. I stopped into Autozone to have a look at it a few weeks ago. I figure the more familiarity I can get beforehand, the better the actual job may go for me when new pad time rolls around. I've never done a brake pad change that required anything more than a big ol' C-clamp before, so I'm concerned with disabling the car in my driveway by tearing up a piston. The brake pros I've spoken with all say to stay away from those all-in-one "cubes" and rent or borrow an actual kit instead. After having read some of the horror stories and actually putting my eyes and hands on a kit, I have to agree....

Best of luck in rectifying your situation. Let us know how you sort it out....

 

I agree Jon that the "universal cubes" suck, but in a pinch they will work!

 

The experience I have made: more spent on tooling results in greater integrity of my knuckles and an elevation of my vocabulary beyond your basic four-letter ejaculations
;-)

 

The cubes do work, but often need "customized" to the job (shaving the protrusions with a dremel/file to fit the caliper piston face perfectly). I have several of them now due to that reason.

Be wary of the loaner kits from the franchise auto parts stores. At least the ones in my area loan out rather crappy tools. I completely destroyed a ball joint kit from Advance (working on the Jeep) - cheap garbage of a tool, and I was pretty gentle on it. Should have just bought a good one myself.

What say you guys about the bleeder issue - I have heard that forcing fluid back through ABS components may not be a great move, so cracking the bleeder is advised to avoid this. I've also heard "don't worry about it"...I will admit I've done both - forced back through the system and opened the caliper bleeder.

 

Chris,

There was another brake-thread fairly recently and it covered this in exceedingly great detail...perhaps beyond the point of

But new information is always rising to the surface (or flowing downhill, as the case may be)

Personally....I use the bleeders when changing pads, then go back 'round with a complete and over-thorough bleed starting at Rt.Rr 'til I'm persuaded all my fluid is fresh. Not really sure this evacuates everything in the ABS circuit...too lazy to trace all the lines....but I assume so...besides....I've bought that big 2L bottle of Valvoline DOT 4 that'll cover 3 or 4 reservoirs' worth...and normally only doing one car at a time.....allegedly no good after you open it....so why not?

 

Did the same on my 2000 but not sure all will apply on your 2003 http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...RearBrakes.pdf I hope it helps!

 

Ah - thank you I must have missed that one. I will search and read over there, so everyone please ignore my prior post. LOL....I don't want to resuscitate said horse, only to have it pummeled into submission and ultimately suffer a horrible demise yet again.

I've been proceeding in the same manner you state the last several years, going through cans of ATE Super Blue with enough frequency to ensure they remain a profitable enterprise (all 4 cars get fresh fluid every 2 years at the minimum).

 

I crack the bleeders before pushing the pistons back in. As cheap as brake fluid is I don't want the stuff thats been in the caliper through all those heat/cool cycles being pushed back into the lines. Also like Chris X I alternate super blue on everything for two years and then super gold for flushing and top ups.
Chad