Thanks guys. It appears that the front maybe a bit easier than the rear. It also seems that replacing the entire assembly may be a better bet than attempting a repair, then? Is there a Ford/Lincoln part that works?

 

Thanks Rick, another fine work. Now it's my turn, I guess. My youngest daughter reported this condition on the wife's 05 last Wednesday, though the wife somehow couldn't be bothered to mention it.


I will say she DID squeal the very next morning when the car wouldn't start....at first, but grudgingly turned over and lit on a retry. I took off early and retrieved it from the school parking lot, also a very sluggish crank. I refit the original battery I replaced pre-emptively 43 months ago and all was fine...for Friday. Saturday it sat in the garage all day and Sunday morning the battery was dead again.


I can't really see how they could be related....but I'll ask, "Anyone else have a battery drain issue in conjunction with the rear door lock failure?" Just a bit curious to me that they come so close together.

 

Zane, I will tell you Joyce's lock actuator was kaput for quite awhile prior to me replacing it. The vehicle suffered no loss of battery.


I am thinking you might have a drain elsewhere, coincidence maybe.

 

Thanks Rick,


Inasmuch as I hate the thought of chasing trons around the car; I think I may leave it parked up in the shop on the battery-minder til the latch comes in and I fix that and hope for the best.....then attack the battery drain issue if necessary....I'm having trouble mustering the gumption to search and read the battery-drain threads just now! Let alone engage in actual diagnosis of taping all the switches and sensors closed with the doors and panels open and waiting patiently for it to go to sleep and such...SHeesh! She'll be fine in the Excursion for a week or two.

 

Zane,

Best of luck chasing the electrical gremlins and keep us posted on your eventual findings. I'm pulling for the new lock components to fix it for you....

 

After-action report:
Rear door window glass interior trim panel was an absolute (bitter ex-wife) to remove! only two "hateful clips" on it when I got it free but I assure you all 5 were resisting when I was trying to pull it off! I ran a magnet along the upper door frame and finally managed to get one more hateful clip to poke its nose out of one of the upper slits in the door. Tugged on it with a pair of needle-nose pliers and "padang!" it disappeared once more into the abyss. Fished it out again and grabbed it with TWO pair needle-nose this time and managed to retrieve it. I didn't think the trim would hold with 2....but now I had 3 and was good to go!






Rear door window glass exterior trim came off easily with precious little force involved. Even so, I broke 4 of the 5 fixing clips. Used a dab of 3M double-sided foam moulding tape on the remains of each clip.


Managed to get the rear door trim panel out and back in without breaking any fasteners...once. Picking the interior door handle bezel and retaining screw cover from the small bowl I had stashed them in revealed the "rear door window glass run retaining bracket" (well now...that'd s'plain the leftover screw and two nuts!) Broke one door trim panel fastener on the redo. Front corner, I moved a nearby one to the corner, assessing that location to be of greater importance...chiefly because it was the one that broke ...and ...Murphy.


I believe my concerns about battery drain were just projection-fears induced by the coincidental failure of the 43 mo. old Motorcraft pre-emptive replacement battery and one day later by it's predecessor the original OEM battery. I obtained a warranty replacement from the local Ford dealer last Thursday,($56.20 36 mo free/37=100 mo pro-rated and they tell me the warranty starts over with the new one!) installed in the evening. Wife drove it to school on Friday, unable to lock doors but otherwise full mission capable. Saturday it was in the shop most of the day on a battery minder as I had the door open and later the bootlid to re-fit the solar charger. Sunday morning I took it off the charger and returned it to service with the wife. So far, so good.

 

Well done, Zane. I agree that battling with the various clips and connectors in these cars can be pure misery. Let's hope this issue is now permanently behind you....

 

Yep well done Zane. Funny enough ole joyces jag has a piece of 3M double sided tape used inplace of one of the "padang" clips!

 

YOu have to get the door open in the first place to do this ... what do you do if the door won't open .. ?

 

Go back a few posts, one of my posts shows how to get the door open by breaking the lock.

 

i saw that ... i'd rather not distroy my lock.
must be another way ...

 

There isn't, it's the only way you can get a deadlocked door open.

 

sorry but there is always another way ...

 

Good luck!

 

Please take lots of photos or even better yet video it for us Philip.

 

my drivers side rear door has never opened since i have owned the car. the PO told me he could get it open by pulling the outside handle and the inside latch at the same time .... this hasn't worked for me yet.
every other door lock and boot lock works. when i unlock the drivers door, all except the rear drivers side door will unlock .. ( the boot has to be unlocked manually as should be the case ) ....when i lock the car all the doors lock including the boot ..... i can hear the solenoid working on the rear pasenger side door and see the inside latch move to the un-lock position, but then it will not stay there, it moves back to the lock position ( toward the rear of the car )... when i move the inside latch to the unlock position manually .. it seems like a spring pushing and holding it in that position .. i can move the latch but it just springs back. ... I think , in my case, there is a rod that has come off ... or something simple like that .. i would like to get the panel off so i can check that out ... i dont think its the LOCK itself ... that's why i say .. "I would rather NOT distroy my lock" .. .. i need to remove the panel on a closed locked door.

 

You can remove the inner door panel with the door closed. That's what I did on mine. Once you've got the inner panel off you can access the door cavity and access the lock.

Yours being a North American car, it should not have deadlocking / double-locking like the UK/EU/ROW cars. In my case the solenoid had failed electrically when the car was deadlocked, which meant the only way to get the door open was to break the lock apart, as you can see in that post.

It should not happen that way with a North American car. Once you get the inner door panel off it should be fairly easy. Should be...

 

Thanks ... i'm just waiting to delve into this project. when i do i will take pics.

 

Hello Rick
My jaguar S type 2003 won't lock with the remote key or manually. Once you try locking it, it automatically opens again leaving the car unlocked and vulnerable for thieves. I need help fixing this technical issue. Again, when you try to lock the car with the remote key or manually, it locks and opens again almost immediately leaving the car unlocked all day and night. How do I go about fixing this? note: this happens for all the locks not just one , does that mean all the locks are bad or may be they are all controlled by the passenger door only which is bad.

 

Please don't duplicate post!!

See https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...locked-142696/