Rear End Noise
#1
Rear End Noise
The car in question is a 2003 S-Type v6. I am not to smart with the newer Jags so bear with me.
The car has ~120k on it and there is this rumbling sound comming from the back directly under the rear seats. The noise is in sync with the speed of the car. Thought it was tire noise but change of tire brand and type did nothing. The noise seems to be worse when cornering.
I checked the differential fluid the other day and it was full and clean. There were some fairly large shavings on the magnet though, not larger then about a 1/16 of an inch or so but seemed large enough to be odd to me. Everything else in the rear end appears sound.
I read some technical bulletins about adding shims to the subframe bushings but their noise description did not seem to jive with the sound I am hearing.
I can only guess that it is dif. noise. I was going to put it on some jackstands and run it to get a more pinpoint spot but not sure where else the noise could come from.
If it is a failing differential how dangerous is it to drive? If the dif locks up can it potentially damage other parts of the drivetrain?
Thanks for the info.
The car has ~120k on it and there is this rumbling sound comming from the back directly under the rear seats. The noise is in sync with the speed of the car. Thought it was tire noise but change of tire brand and type did nothing. The noise seems to be worse when cornering.
I checked the differential fluid the other day and it was full and clean. There were some fairly large shavings on the magnet though, not larger then about a 1/16 of an inch or so but seemed large enough to be odd to me. Everything else in the rear end appears sound.
I read some technical bulletins about adding shims to the subframe bushings but their noise description did not seem to jive with the sound I am hearing.
I can only guess that it is dif. noise. I was going to put it on some jackstands and run it to get a more pinpoint spot but not sure where else the noise could come from.
If it is a failing differential how dangerous is it to drive? If the dif locks up can it potentially damage other parts of the drivetrain?
Thanks for the info.
#2
#5
#7
I would check the wheel bearings first. When you jack the rear, (both wheels) *remove the caliper and rotor since they can mask a lot of the noise. Then put the trans. in gear and have a listen. I recently changed one of my rears. Not a very difficult job, and total cost including machine shop pressing out the old and in the new was a grand total of 140 bucks.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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#8
Ok, I am confident I can do the job. I just did my front end on my '90 Xj6. However I am afraid I am going to have a hard time finding someone to press the bearings. Is this something any auto machine shop should do for a fair price?
When I did my Xj6 controll arm bushings I got them off and with a similar plan. Took 'em to a mechanic in town to have them pressed. Got a song and dance on how these things were a bear to do and it was going to be about 150 bucks or more to replace the bushings in 2 controll arms. I left and pressed em out with a vise, socket, and a large steel nipple in 15 minutes.
I don't plan to try and press my luck with wheel bearings the same way and want to have it done in the right environment. However it seems around here it is hard to find a place thats not going to bend me over the hood and screw me with an impact wrench.
When I did my Xj6 controll arm bushings I got them off and with a similar plan. Took 'em to a mechanic in town to have them pressed. Got a song and dance on how these things were a bear to do and it was going to be about 150 bucks or more to replace the bushings in 2 controll arms. I left and pressed em out with a vise, socket, and a large steel nipple in 15 minutes.
I don't plan to try and press my luck with wheel bearings the same way and want to have it done in the right environment. However it seems around here it is hard to find a place thats not going to bend me over the hood and screw me with an impact wrench.
#9
Did mine yesterday. Pretty straightforward, Wow, what a difference! I took them to a local Carquest that has a machine shop & they charged me $35 per side. Now I can hear one of the fronts is bad also, so back to get a front hub assembly. Call a few places first & see who will press them for you, shouldn't be that expensive, the guy did mine in like 30 mins per side.
#10
Yeah, I had a hard time finding a place. Not going to Bend-U-Over Customs again...
I called my local mechanic and he said he could do em but I did not get a price. He was probably faily reasonable. Then I called my alignment dude and he said worst case to just press it was about 100 bucks or 188 for complete install and allignment. I also called an auto machine shop and he flat out would not do them.
Needless to say I am just going to take the car in for the 188 job. Apparently my whole town is full of the Bend-U-Over franchise.
I called my local mechanic and he said he could do em but I did not get a price. He was probably faily reasonable. Then I called my alignment dude and he said worst case to just press it was about 100 bucks or 188 for complete install and allignment. I also called an auto machine shop and he flat out would not do them.
Needless to say I am just going to take the car in for the 188 job. Apparently my whole town is full of the Bend-U-Over franchise.
#11
I actually have to replace a bearing on the rear. Just called the dealership, it's $475 for parts and labor, or $270 for just labor if I already have the bearing. Considering the part only costs $45 from a local shop and Jag wants $200, I'll guess they're ripping me off in labor costs too.
Can this issue cause rotors to warp?
Can this issue cause rotors to warp?
#16
#18
I've had to replace all of the front and rear wheelbearings on my 03 Type S V8. Not that big a deal.
It seems to me that it's the rubber seals that deteriorate and cause the bearings to contaminate and fail on these cars, and not necessarily the fault of the bearings themselves.
Lots of winter driving allows salt and road crap to enter the bearing housing. And not just bearings either, I've had other parts pack it in because of rubber seal failures.
It seems to me that it's the rubber seals that deteriorate and cause the bearings to contaminate and fail on these cars, and not necessarily the fault of the bearings themselves.
Lots of winter driving allows salt and road crap to enter the bearing housing. And not just bearings either, I've had other parts pack it in because of rubber seal failures.
#20
Thanks, guys. Is this someing I can do at home? If bearings need to be pressed in & out, are you taking the entire rearend out & taking to machine shop? Does anyone who has done this have any pics?
Jag dealer wants about $950.00 (est) and local differential shop quoated me ~$500 both sides parts & labor. That's a big chunck of change for a bearing that seems to cost about $35 (plus seals)
Thanks, AJ
Jag dealer wants about $950.00 (est) and local differential shop quoated me ~$500 both sides parts & labor. That's a big chunck of change for a bearing that seems to cost about $35 (plus seals)
Thanks, AJ