Thanks for the feedback. Just another example of how a simple repair gets blown up into a big deal because it's on a Jaguar!! Just a common wheel bearing repair and it does not cost that much to fix.

You were pretty close on the wheel hub nut torque. JTIS says 300 NM which is 221 Ft/lb. Maybe give it another lick??

Here is the JTIS instructions. I normally reuse the hub nut but just about all manufacturers will say replace it everytime.


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Thanks Club, I will re-torque that nut this weekend as it should only take few minutes. Im not sure about the statement about "final tightening...with wheels on the ground." Many of the components (nut/bolts) cannot be reached with the wheels on and sitting on the ground? Anyway car is running/handling great but Ill see what can be re-tightened then if need be. Thanks again to all

aj007

 

Generally when you're supposed to torque that way you very definitely should do so. Put it on 4 bricks or something if need be but you need the weight on the wheels.

 

What it means is: with the wheel centre cap removed and the vehicle on a flat, level surface, a socket is inserted through the wheel and used with a torque spanner (wrench) to tighten the nut to the correct value. It is always a good idea to have either the brakes applied or the wheels otherwise prevented from moving so the correct tightness is achieved.

 

At the risk of opening up a can of worms, I am suffering with a newlydetected rear end / rear something or other noise.

The quick background, I have replaced the entire suspension on my 3.0 stype. All bushings, links, rotors, pads, tires, front bearings ect. The onlyparts not new are rear wheel bearings and half shafts. After driving for a fewweeks I was very happy with the ride and performance of the vehicle. Then lastweekend end I took a 200 mile ride and on the way back I begin to hear this wupwup wup sound from the rear, sounded like a flat spot in the tire, the soundstarts to become audible around 30mph and increases in frequency as speedincreases. No change in the sound when I corner left or right, no change in thesound when I brake hard, just very consistent and very annoying.

So I jacked the rear end up thinking I could try to get a better handle onwhere the noise was coming from. Tried to run the car in drive on the stands and had too much noise coming from the slight rub of the rear brakes and ofcourse the traction control acts all weird even when I hit the disable button.

Now a word of caution, I read this thread and without thinking followed theadvice of the previous posters by removing the rear calipers and rear disks andtrying to isolate the noise that way. I disabled the traction control with thebutton on the console and started the vehicle, selected drive and whoops bothrear caliper pistons shot out of the calipers. The traction control is stilltrying to work even though it’s disabled and the light on the dash wasflashing. What a mess, anyways reassembled everything bleed the brake systemand everything is good to go, but I still have the wup wup wup noise.

I have rotated the tires and the noise does not follow the tire, it remainsat the rear of the car.

Does anyone have any recommendations on what could cause be causing thenoise? I am suspecting the wheel bearings but I have never associated a wup wupwup noise with bearings before.

 

Noises and descriptions of noises are hard to diagnose, but yours sure do sound like wheel bearings...

Me on the other hand... I think i have a bad diff judging by all the noise im hearing back there on deceleration...

 

Thanks GT, I have a few years experience with rear end noise enough to know diff noise when I hear one. This one does not sound like a diff noise at all.

At least one taker on wheel bearings, any more?

 

Can you swap your rear tyres to front and see if the noise persists - sounds like tyre noise to me????

 

Thanks biglad, but as I mentioned tires are brand new maybe 300 miles I have rotated them all round the car to determine if the noise follows a specifictire or tires and it does not. The noise remains at the rear independent of thetire position.

 

It was my first thought though as the noise is very much like a flat spot / broken belt / cupping in the tire. But I have ruled this out.

 

Hello, I have a 02' S-Type w/ 145k on the clock now. I just began hearing a whirring/whining noise that gets louder with acceleration. I had my mech check it out and he said when he put it up on the hoist and did a scope on it, and said the noise sounds like it's coming from the differential. Could the bearings be transferring noise to the diff and throwing my very experienced mechanic off?

 

Just traded an '05 X-Type 3.0 auto for an '08 4.2 and have noticed some noise from the rear. When I let off the gas and coast I notice a slight whining noise coming from the rear. At this point I'm just chalking it up to either some noise from the rear axle or possibly something from the tail of the auto trans.

It's not particularly loud and I'm not concerned at this point. Rather it's just interested in comparison to the lack of noise from the X-Type's AWD and front mounted auto trans.

Kind of like sitting in the back of a Crown Vic taxi and listening to sounds from the differential.

It seems almost an old school V8 rear drive noise (duh...).
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

 

Check your speedometer and see if you hear the noise mostly between 50 - 60 mph. If so it's coming from the differential. Apparently some of the bearing preload is not correct and allowing resonance within the preload washers and surrounding components.

 

Tony, I don't know if that response was intended for me. I hear the noise at all speeds, but the faster I go, the louder it gets. Do you think this is a differential bearing issue or wheel bearing issue?

 

Someone,
The differential noise I mentioned is specific to a frequency and loading(55mph and light par throttle). So if you are hearing noise at all speeds then there is something else wrong with it.

 

Ok, thanks for chiming in, I really appreciate it. Can anyone tell me if there is a way to check my bearings aside from just wiggling the tires? I'm on a tighter budget this year than I am normally accustomed to and would prefer to try and diagnose myself as a second opinion to my mechanic.

 

@ Pab and anyone else interested:

I had very slight diff noise when I bought my latest S-type and so I changed the oil in the diff.

What came out was black sludge !! and I refilled with Castrol Syntrax 75-140.

Initially the noised was reduced but with more use it has all but disappeared.

I would strongly recommend that anyone who hasn't done this to their cars should consider doing so at the earliest point.

Not a difficult or expensive job and satisfying to know you've got good oil in there.

 

Hi guys, been a few days since I got all the parts apart on rear and orderedand received the new bearings ect. So I installed all the new parts and wasreal excited to get the car back on the road. First impressions the whap whapwhap noise was gone totally quiet, great I thought.

Then i got her on the freeway and at around 55mph, the whole car had a hugevibration. Vibration remained the fast I went, I chalked it up to maybe wheels,alignment ect. So I switched front wheels with rear, no change. I then drovefor 2 days and the rear wheels started to make a squeak squeak noise with everywheel rotation.

I jack her up and put the car on stands, ran the engine in gear and sureenough both rear bearings are squeaking as they rotate. I noticed the hubs hada visual runout and the wheels were moving side to side with every rotation. Iremoved the wheels and the brake rotor had visible runout as well and thenremoved the brake rotor and noticed the hubs were not rotating very concentric.

Question I have is is it possible that the machine shop pressed the bearingsin not straight? Or are both my rear knuckles bent?

As a side note I had absolutely no vibration from the rear prior toreplacing the wheel bearings, the reason I replaced the bearings was becausethe car was making a whap whap sounds from the rear which turned out to be theright wheel bearing failed.

 

Ouch. If the bearing was pressed in crooked, the wheels would turn true but pointed in a wrong direction. If you are getting vibration, then it seems something got bent during the repair.

 

Tony, the wheels are not turning true there is a definite amount of runout Ican see from the wheels, the same on the rotors and I will measure it on thehubs tonight with a dial indicator.

The real question is with this being a double roller bearing configurationand having a really good depth on the bearing I would think no matter howcrooked you started the bearing it would self-align at some point, same goesfor the hub. I think I am missing something here, maybe the bearings and hubsare not seated all the way in the knuckle.