For Gods sake, where does this information come from! For the Brembo 4 piston calipers just compress the pistons with any suitable brake caliper piston compressing tool of which there are at least 100 different ones that will work for these calipers without damaging anything. If you can't seem to find a tool that works please take the car to the dealer before you break something. Knock out the pad retaining pins with a suitable punch and hammer without hurting yourself or damaging something else. Be sure you dont break the pins expanding collar or they will have to be replaced or the pins could back out and contact the wheel or fall completely out and compromise the braking. Not pretty.

Now here's the most important part. I don't care what kind of tool you use to twist the parking brake caliper piston back in. Use your Vise Grips, Channel Locks or plain old slip joint pliers. My personal suggestion that will do the job easily, inexpensively and safely would be to go and buy a $3 pair of cheap 90 degree large pin snap ring pliers and use those to twist the pistons back in. Hell, you're already going to have the park brake caliper split in 2 to put the rotor on you could probably get away with an even cheaper pair of straight snap ring pliers and not wreck anything in the process. After you have installed your new pads and rotors whatever you do DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE THE ELECTRIC PARK BRAKE TO PUSH THEM BACK OUT. Where in the hell did anyone read anywhere that the correct procedure to adjust the park brake calipers is to use the park brake motor to do it?????? 1 of 3 things are going to happen if you do this. #1 you could get lucky and everything will be fine, maybe, hopefully. #2 you could set a park brake fault code due to over travel of the cable before the amperage in the motor reached the correct level to signal park brake application. This is how the park brake module knows that the park brake is truly applied. As the pads squeeze the rotor the motor amperage goes up due to the fact that the pads are pushing against solid iron. When the pistons are pushed back in the motor will continue to apply until either the amperage goes up or the motor runs out of cable and sets the " failed to apply due to over travel" code. Now that the code is set the park brake will be disabled and you will get that irritating beeping sound every time you drive the car letting you know that you personally screwed something up. You can now try disconnecting the battery to reset the park brake system and hopefully when the motor attempts to apply the park brake again the pads will actually be close enough to force the motor to the correct amperage. If this works you are truly lucky and should make a donation to your local church or temple. #3 when you use the park brake motor to push the pads back out and it reaches an overtravel condition the motor just says "screw you douche bag i'm through with this ****". Now all the battery disconnecting in the world wont bring it back to life.

Here is the normal, I'm not a moron, really, way to push the pistons back out. Simply grab the actuating lever that the park brake cable is attached to and operate it manually with your hand until the pistons extend to the rotor. Simple, no? If the spring seems a little to stiff for your untrained hands just put a proper sized wrench, Vise Grips, Channel Locks or slip joint pliers ti it and manually operate it like that. I do recommend the wrench though.

Here's the best part of all. When all else fails and you bring it to me that motor will cost you $600 plus another $300 to put it in(the R model motor is all *** backwards and much more difficult to install). I'll take my share of that and take my grandkids out for pizza and a movie and a couple beers for myself and we will sing praises for the morons of the world that made it all possible. Don't worry though you wont be the first and you certainly wont be the last.

Jesus Christ, take a class or something. At least join your local Jaguar club.

 

The original reason I was posting in the first place.
Why are you posting to a thread that was started 2 and a half years ago?
Normally I would have never read the posts here due to the date but hopefully I can stop the madness.

 

We actually promote 'resurrecting' old threads that are of the same subject matter, as to keep good (hey now!) information all together and prevents multiple posts about the same topic. It does help when it can be summed up with only the very best, most accurate info. Thanks for that.

You're post will be very useful for future R brake jobs, I am certain. It will not be in vain.

 

Real_Tech, thanks for the information. I'm sorry if I upset you. I don't like to attempt any job without feeling I have the right tools and can do the job right. I would hate to damage my car, not least as it's the only one I have access to!

I'm relieved to hear the increased current is monitored, as till now I only guessed that was how it worked.

 

Thanks for the proper method real-tech. But the JTIS makes no mention of manually winding the rear emergency calipers back into position? They want you to use the special Electric Parking Brake Release Tool 206-82 to release the EPB. But I see no need when I can just turn off the EPB with the car in gear and then turn the car off. Everything was nice and loose when I changed the rear pads?
But I sure don't want to screw up anything more than normal!!
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When the JTIS is saying to use the special tool to release the park brake it is assuming that the key has been removed and park brake is applied. In that instance the special tool can be used to release the applied park brake for proper brake service. If the brake is already released as when you have shut the car off and not removed the key the tool is not necessary.

 

hmmmmm great info here, thanks real_tech.