Rescuing an abandoned SR
#44
Thanks for the tips. I have already sorted the bolts out. Toyota style solid pieces, slightly over US$1 each. Found them at a local tyre shop. Fitted them to my X-type and now also the SR. Slightly longer and 21mm but looks much better, in my view.
Fixed small light in head light, loose fitting/globe. Fixed headlight with a screw.
Drove car on a few small trips, lost one hose on cooling system, no damage but also no warning from temp gauge!
Brings me to a question of: how does the temperature gauge behave?. In my Rover 75, the gauge will sit on NORMAL anywhere from 75 to 115 degrees C. In other words, the Rover car can go from 75 degrees and up by almost 40 degrees without warning.
After I re- fitted the hose and filled the system, I took it for a small drive, and the temperature gauge sat at a small fraction above the middle. At one stage it crept slightly further up, but far from the red section. I switched the heater on MAX and turned back. The temperature came back down. So I most likely need to top up.
But a typical behaviour of the gauge would be nice to know, if anybody knows.
Fixed small light in head light, loose fitting/globe. Fixed headlight with a screw.
Drove car on a few small trips, lost one hose on cooling system, no damage but also no warning from temp gauge!
Brings me to a question of: how does the temperature gauge behave?. In my Rover 75, the gauge will sit on NORMAL anywhere from 75 to 115 degrees C. In other words, the Rover car can go from 75 degrees and up by almost 40 degrees without warning.
After I re- fitted the hose and filled the system, I took it for a small drive, and the temperature gauge sat at a small fraction above the middle. At one stage it crept slightly further up, but far from the red section. I switched the heater on MAX and turned back. The temperature came back down. So I most likely need to top up.
But a typical behaviour of the gauge would be nice to know, if anybody knows.
#45
Very poorly, if you ask me.
Rimshot, please!
This is from the XK forum, but the general principle is the same on the S-Type:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-gauge-62813/
Rimshot, please!
This is from the XK forum, but the general principle is the same on the S-Type:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-gauge-62813/
#46
Thanks! Afraid of that! But now I know.
In my Rover I fitted an aftermarket gauge, can do this here too, I guess.
But then someone found out that you can set the onboard display to show temperature!
17 prods on the knob, followed by another 6, and the instrument shows the coolant temperature beautifully.
Maybe in this car that is possible too?
Long thread you refer to, will read it carefully.
Thank you!
In my Rover I fitted an aftermarket gauge, can do this here too, I guess.
But then someone found out that you can set the onboard display to show temperature!
17 prods on the knob, followed by another 6, and the instrument shows the coolant temperature beautifully.
Maybe in this car that is possible too?
Long thread you refer to, will read it carefully.
Thank you!
#47
#48
Thanks! Afraid of that! But now I know.
In my Rover I fitted an aftermarket gauge, can do this here too, I guess.
But then someone found out that you can set the onboard display to show temperature!
17 prods on the knob, followed by another 6, and the instrument shows the coolant temperature beautifully.
Maybe in this car that is possible too?
Long thread you refer to, will read it carefully.
Thank you!
In my Rover I fitted an aftermarket gauge, can do this here too, I guess.
But then someone found out that you can set the onboard display to show temperature!
17 prods on the knob, followed by another 6, and the instrument shows the coolant temperature beautifully.
Maybe in this car that is possible too?
Long thread you refer to, will read it carefully.
Thank you!
#49
I was talking about my Rover!
In the Jaguar, you also can get into the system by pressing the left stalk and holding it in. Then the test mode shows up.One of the first options is a test of all instruments and lights! You go through them by prodding the stalk. I must see if there is a menu for the codes, and which then is temperature, if it shows directly.
In the Jaguar, you also can get into the system by pressing the left stalk and holding it in. Then the test mode shows up.One of the first options is a test of all instruments and lights! You go through them by prodding the stalk. I must see if there is a menu for the codes, and which then is temperature, if it shows directly.
#50
I think that I have found it!
In the menu press until you reach "Temp in xxxx" The number is the temperature in degrees Centigrade x 10! So 1024 means 102.4 degrees.
I will try and monitor, but i am fairly certain this is it.
If so, then you don't have to rely on the gauge any longer.
In the menu press until you reach "Temp in xxxx" The number is the temperature in degrees Centigrade x 10! So 1024 means 102.4 degrees.
I will try and monitor, but i am fairly certain this is it.
If so, then you don't have to rely on the gauge any longer.
Last edited by SRT; 11-17-2018 at 02:13 PM.
#51
I think that I have found it!
In the menu press until you reach "Temp in xxxx" The number is the temperature in degrees Centigtrade x 10! So 1024 means 102.4 degrees.
I will try and monitor, but i am fairly certain this is it.
If so, the you don't have to rely on the gauge any longer.
In the menu press until you reach "Temp in xxxx" The number is the temperature in degrees Centigtrade x 10! So 1024 means 102.4 degrees.
I will try and monitor, but i am fairly certain this is it.
If so, the you don't have to rely on the gauge any longer.
#52
#54
I have no hooters. Press the horn, and ---- nothing!
I have had most of the front off, and i have never noticed any! Wonder if they have been taken off??.
I anyone has the position, please let me know, so I can check!
A picture would be nice so i can see if the wiring is there as well.
Bought two horns, just in case.! 3US$ high and low, Kolbe!
Found the link!!:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...cation-156971/
I have had most of the front off, and i have never noticed any! Wonder if they have been taken off??.
I anyone has the position, please let me know, so I can check!
A picture would be nice so i can see if the wiring is there as well.
Bought two horns, just in case.! 3US$ high and low, Kolbe!
Found the link!!:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...cation-156971/
Last edited by SRT; 11-18-2018 at 04:11 AM.
#55
#56
Following this excellent thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...val-faq-61287/
I removed the clock spring cassette. I opened the cassette, and sure enough, the 10 core conductor cable had snapped near the end plug.
There was a mistake made when the cassette was put together, and the cable had been looped back over center, so and angle was created which had fatigued the cable and made it break as cleanly as if cut by a pair of scissors.
After a number of quite elaborate procedures, I managed to solder the cable back together and my hooter now works, the air bag warning light has gone, the cruise warning has gone and I can control my radio from the steering wheel!
Best of all, the air bag did not deploy.!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...val-faq-61287/
I removed the clock spring cassette. I opened the cassette, and sure enough, the 10 core conductor cable had snapped near the end plug.
There was a mistake made when the cassette was put together, and the cable had been looped back over center, so and angle was created which had fatigued the cable and made it break as cleanly as if cut by a pair of scissors.
After a number of quite elaborate procedures, I managed to solder the cable back together and my hooter now works, the air bag warning light has gone, the cruise warning has gone and I can control my radio from the steering wheel!
Best of all, the air bag did not deploy.!
The following users liked this post:
Panthro (11-20-2018)
#58
Still haven't found the horns, but i now know they are there! I can hear them!
Pictures of the clock-works!
Here the cassette is opened. Notice the wrong direction of the cable. Bent back on itself, causing a sharp bend where the cable has fatigued and broken.
Here the end plug is removed from the housing.
The insulation is hard plastic, and I tried to scrape and pull it off, with no success. Best method is a hot soldering iron on the cable against a piece of wood, and then pull the cable away, once hot. Experiment on the long cable end, you can afford to loose a couple of centimeters!
The other part of the break, on the plug. Before skinning.
After some experimenting, using of helping hands, magnifiers and surgical scalpels! I got the strands soldered together!
Insulating tape inserted between strands.
Super glue and silicone to add stiffness. One side-
And the other.
Re-inserted after testing continuity of each strand! The two wires for each of the two Air bags have continuity and should have. All others should be single conductors with no continuity between them.
Notice correct routing of the cable.
Addition of waxed paper to reduce friction.
I fitted a duvet over steering wheel and opened all doors before re-connecting the battery, once the steering assembly had been re-connected.
The repair works, all functions restored, air-bag light, horn, cruise and radio control from steering wheel.
Pictures of the clock-works!
Here the cassette is opened. Notice the wrong direction of the cable. Bent back on itself, causing a sharp bend where the cable has fatigued and broken.
Here the end plug is removed from the housing.
The insulation is hard plastic, and I tried to scrape and pull it off, with no success. Best method is a hot soldering iron on the cable against a piece of wood, and then pull the cable away, once hot. Experiment on the long cable end, you can afford to loose a couple of centimeters!
The other part of the break, on the plug. Before skinning.
After some experimenting, using of helping hands, magnifiers and surgical scalpels! I got the strands soldered together!
Insulating tape inserted between strands.
Super glue and silicone to add stiffness. One side-
And the other.
Re-inserted after testing continuity of each strand! The two wires for each of the two Air bags have continuity and should have. All others should be single conductors with no continuity between them.
Notice correct routing of the cable.
Addition of waxed paper to reduce friction.
I fitted a duvet over steering wheel and opened all doors before re-connecting the battery, once the steering assembly had been re-connected.
The repair works, all functions restored, air-bag light, horn, cruise and radio control from steering wheel.
#59
I have been curious... SRT does not indicate his location, but I was wondering what steps were taken to perfect title to the vehicle?
I am assuming this was done prior to spending considerable time and money on the vehicle to get it back on the road. In my State, here is the US, IIRC the owner of the field upon which the car was abandoned would have have first claim on the car. How does this all work in your locale? Inquiring minds (well, one anyway) want to know...
Thanks!
I am assuming this was done prior to spending considerable time and money on the vehicle to get it back on the road. In my State, here is the US, IIRC the owner of the field upon which the car was abandoned would have have first claim on the car. How does this all work in your locale? Inquiring minds (well, one anyway) want to know...
Thanks!
#60
I have been curious... SRT does not indicate his location, but I was wondering what steps were taken to perfect title to the vehicle?
I am assuming this was done prior to spending considerable time and money on the vehicle to get it back on the road. In my State, here is the US, IIRC the owner of the field upon which the car was abandoned would have have first claim on the car. How does this all work in your locale? Inquiring minds (well, one anyway) want to know...
Thanks!
I am assuming this was done prior to spending considerable time and money on the vehicle to get it back on the road. In my State, here is the US, IIRC the owner of the field upon which the car was abandoned would have have first claim on the car. How does this all work in your locale? Inquiring minds (well, one anyway) want to know...
Thanks!
The gearbox repair is fine but took over a year, - however the subsequent head-gasket repair, resulted in the cracked timing cover and the loose pulley and damaged crankshaft (caused by pure incompetence!), which the garage washed their hands off!
In order to repair this it was brought to the last repair shop, where they fitted new parts among others a new pulley and a new split collar, also without success, - for reasons that subsequently became obvious!
So the car was then left in the field in disgust/despair, as the owner had had enough, the total of the repairs exceeding his threshold by now, not to speak of the value of the car.
I purchased it off the owner as he had given up. It was either this - or parting out as spares.
A Jaguar can ruin you if you can't fix it yourself.
Last edited by SRT; 11-20-2018 at 03:18 PM.
The following users liked this post:
S-Type Owner (11-20-2018)