Reverse Parking Aid Volume?
#1
Reverse Parking Aid Volume?
Boys and Girls,
On my '02, the volume is very low on the reverse parking aid. The beeping action seems to work fine. The only problem is the volume is low. Anybody run into this before? I remember it used to be a lot louder, but I don't recall when it changed.
Looking at the wiring diagram, the parking aid system has a dedicated speaker. I was wondering if the output used the stereo speakers, but that doesn't appear to be the case.
On my '02, the volume is very low on the reverse parking aid. The beeping action seems to work fine. The only problem is the volume is low. Anybody run into this before? I remember it used to be a lot louder, but I don't recall when it changed.
Looking at the wiring diagram, the parking aid system has a dedicated speaker. I was wondering if the output used the stereo speakers, but that doesn't appear to be the case.
#2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 117,531
Received 6,330 Likes
on
5,516 Posts
The following users liked this post:
kr98664 (11-15-2022)
#3
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...s-type-207036/
#4
#5
#6
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 117,531
Received 6,330 Likes
on
5,516 Posts
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 117,531
Received 6,330 Likes
on
5,516 Posts
#9
#10
#11
#12
#13
Two months and several crises later, I finally had a little free time to replace the speaker. It works great, but oy vey, what a pain! Access wasn't so bad, but the foolish thing was secured with pop rivets. I had to drill them out from underneath.
For access, fold down the two rear seatbacks. The reverse speaker is located on top of the metal structure under the rear window, below the fuzzy trim panel (aka parcel shelf). It's located just forward of the center brake light, a little bit offset towards the US driver's side. You don't have to remove the trim panel completely, and need only lift up the front. Remove the three car seat anchors across the top and the three large trim clips, normally hidden by the seatbacks:
Gently lift up the trim panel and position a spacer to hold it up a few inches. I used a roll of tape, but anything similar will work:
Here's a close-up of the speaker. Access is tight like this, but not too bad:
With the trim panel lifted up, you can plug in your new speaker for testing. No point in removing the old speaker if the problem is elsewhere.
Here's a view of the speaker after removal, showing the location of the two fasteners and electrical connector. Look closely and you'll see the remains of one of the blasted pop rivets. Maybe you'll get lucky and something other than rivets were used:
If were to do it all over again, and had to deal with the pop rivets, I would simply secure the new speaker with double-sided tape, close to the old speaker. Swap over the connector and there would be no need to remove the old one. There's plenty of room. Hindsight is always 20/20, isn't it? But of course I did it the hard way.
There is little room to drill out the rivets from above. You might get in there with a compact 90 drill, but don't hold your breath. Access from underneath is blocked by a big plastic housing for the audio system speakers. Not sure about all models, but my car has the premium factory sound system and a large enclosure for the speakers. This image, shamelessly stolen from eBay, shows the 5 fasteners (circled in red) and the electrical connector that must be removed to drop this enclosure. This unit is fairly heavy and awkward to handle, so a helper is suggested. This view is from underneath, looking up if installed:
With the speaker enclosure out of the way, this view shows the location of the two offending rivets, already drilled out in this image. This view is from the floor of the trunk, looking up and forward:
No way was I going to rivet the new speaker in place. I used double-side tape, but you could use any sort of fastener your little heart desires. Once again, in hindsight, there's no need to remove the old speaker if riveted. If you decide to drill out the rivets, they might spin. Secure them with a drop of super glue to make the process easier. I would also suggest laying down a sheet of plastic or similar to catch any metal shavings, to make clean-up easier.
With the job completed and everything put back together, I'm cleaning the trunk with my cordless vacuum. How well does it work? This vacuum really sucks.
For a replacement, here's the number (98AB-15K864-AA) on the back of the speaker. You can use that or the official Jaguar part number (XR88580) when searching:
I've noticed similar speakers available for Ford vehicles of this era. Most likely one would work just fine but I am not positive.
For access, fold down the two rear seatbacks. The reverse speaker is located on top of the metal structure under the rear window, below the fuzzy trim panel (aka parcel shelf). It's located just forward of the center brake light, a little bit offset towards the US driver's side. You don't have to remove the trim panel completely, and need only lift up the front. Remove the three car seat anchors across the top and the three large trim clips, normally hidden by the seatbacks:
Gently lift up the trim panel and position a spacer to hold it up a few inches. I used a roll of tape, but anything similar will work:
Here's a close-up of the speaker. Access is tight like this, but not too bad:
With the trim panel lifted up, you can plug in your new speaker for testing. No point in removing the old speaker if the problem is elsewhere.
Here's a view of the speaker after removal, showing the location of the two fasteners and electrical connector. Look closely and you'll see the remains of one of the blasted pop rivets. Maybe you'll get lucky and something other than rivets were used:
If were to do it all over again, and had to deal with the pop rivets, I would simply secure the new speaker with double-sided tape, close to the old speaker. Swap over the connector and there would be no need to remove the old one. There's plenty of room. Hindsight is always 20/20, isn't it? But of course I did it the hard way.
There is little room to drill out the rivets from above. You might get in there with a compact 90 drill, but don't hold your breath. Access from underneath is blocked by a big plastic housing for the audio system speakers. Not sure about all models, but my car has the premium factory sound system and a large enclosure for the speakers. This image, shamelessly stolen from eBay, shows the 5 fasteners (circled in red) and the electrical connector that must be removed to drop this enclosure. This unit is fairly heavy and awkward to handle, so a helper is suggested. This view is from underneath, looking up if installed:
With the speaker enclosure out of the way, this view shows the location of the two offending rivets, already drilled out in this image. This view is from the floor of the trunk, looking up and forward:
No way was I going to rivet the new speaker in place. I used double-side tape, but you could use any sort of fastener your little heart desires. Once again, in hindsight, there's no need to remove the old speaker if riveted. If you decide to drill out the rivets, they might spin. Secure them with a drop of super glue to make the process easier. I would also suggest laying down a sheet of plastic or similar to catch any metal shavings, to make clean-up easier.
With the job completed and everything put back together, I'm cleaning the trunk with my cordless vacuum. How well does it work? This vacuum really sucks.
For a replacement, here's the number (98AB-15K864-AA) on the back of the speaker. You can use that or the official Jaguar part number (XR88580) when searching:
I've noticed similar speakers available for Ford vehicles of this era. Most likely one would work just fine but I am not positive.
Last edited by kr98664; 01-31-2023 at 10:21 PM.
The following users liked this post:
joycesjag (02-07-2023)
#14
Damn, I didn’t see this earlier, my bad. I have 3 of these I’ve pulled from the yard, I would have sent you one! (I got to cheat because people before me had pulled the rear glass off)
That is also where the GPS antenna is mounted if you have the navigation package.
Great write up. Yes, you are correct. FoMoCo used those speakers across all their models with backup sensors of the time. Part numbers are different (of course).
If you (or anyone) needs parts like this, please feel free to ping me. There are at least 10 LKQ locations near me and they have a steady flow of S-Types coming in weekly. I typically go on weekends to practice techniques to avoid breaking my own stuff….or just tear through cars for fun.
That is also where the GPS antenna is mounted if you have the navigation package.
Great write up. Yes, you are correct. FoMoCo used those speakers across all their models with backup sensors of the time. Part numbers are different (of course).
If you (or anyone) needs parts like this, please feel free to ping me. There are at least 10 LKQ locations near me and they have a steady flow of S-Types coming in weekly. I typically go on weekends to practice techniques to avoid breaking my own stuff….or just tear through cars for fun.
Last edited by LLLA; 02-07-2023 at 03:27 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mjbedingfield
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
2
08-04-2008 06:09 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)