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S/C Intercooler Pump replacement Bosch 10'

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  #1  
Old 02-28-2016, 01:52 AM
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Default S/C Intercooler Pump replacement Bosch 10'

So today I performed the bosch 10' series auxiliary pump upgrade on an 04' STR. Total labor time 6 hours, I was working alone and there were many people at the auto skills center on base, I also kept forgetting tools and getting stuck in line waiting for tools so labor time should be significantly shorter.

Tools needed-
  • Torx27 screwdriver or torx bit- for the 9 torx screws underneath the front bumper cover and the 2 torx screws on either fender well located on the side closest to front bumper cover. Total of 13 screws
  • 8mm Wrench- for the S/C Intercooler pump retainer bolt, a socket wouldn't fit in such a crammed area 1 bolt of this size
  • 10mm Socket- preferably the short socket so you can get the bolt that's hidden on either side of the bumper cover on the inside, located on the rear of the bumper cover behind the front of the fender well. A long extension is needed as well to reach the other hidden bolt located behind the headlight assembly towards the outside of the vehicle. There's a total of 10 bolts that are of this size
  • 19mm socket, 3/4 socket, or lug wrench with breaker- It's not a must but makes life easier if you remove the tires to gain more access and room for the 2 torx screws on fender well
  • Pliers- To remove the clamps off the 2 hoses on the intercooler pump
  • 19mm Hex Key- To remove S/C coolant fill plug, this is optional as you can use a bolt head that fits the hexagonal hole, tighten 2 nuts to the bolt and wrench the bottom nut to loosen the fill plug
  • Jack Stands- If you remove the tires I would recommend using these as a safety measurement

































When removing hoses from the S/C intercooler pump there will be a rush of coolant coming out and your coolant expansion tank will end up empty.

It may take some work but the rubber flap/sleeve and the bracket from the stock Hella pump will fit around the Bosch 10' pump. There maybe other ways to secure the pump but it felt secured enough with the bracket and rubber sleeve.

Upon installing the bosch pump make sure to test it by turning the ignition switch to the 2nd position you should hear it pumping coolant. Be advised don't turn the pump on without topping off on coolant via the S/C coolant fill plug or the expansion tank.

Once you top off on coolant perform coolant system bleed according to the procedures found in the pdf.

After driving around a bit I noticed my 'Temp In' (Coolant temperature), stay consistently at 920 (92°C,198°F) even after a few good launches. Can't say this pump works miracles but I am definitely more confident taking long trips and applying a heavy foot every now and then without feeling heat soak prematurely.
 
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4.2L SC Cooling Fill-Bleed.pdf (296.2 KB, 268 views)
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Datsports (02-28-2016), jackra_1 (03-24-2016), JagSTR2004 (02-28-2016), joycesjag (02-28-2016), Panthro (03-05-2016)
  #2  
Old 02-28-2016, 06:52 AM
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Great write up, I'm planning to do this shortly too as my STR is currently in for more power modifications so will need to counteract the added heat especially in the coming months. What were your coolant temps prior to doing this mod when driving hard?

I think a larger radiator/additional coolant tank could also help us as there would be more coolant in the system to provide a larger buffer against heatsoak plus extra airflow. At the moment there's no one offering a larger radiator for the STR so a custom one would need to be made which shouldn't be too hard as there are companies which do just this. I've also noticed that running without a t-stat keeps the indicated coolant temp lower, however causes havoc with the ECU. Water/meth kits could also help a lot of course.
 
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:09 AM
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I replaced the Intercooler auxiliary pump, the heater auxiliary pump and the Dual Climate Control Valve without removing the front bumper. However, I was able to use my brothers Collision Repair Shop lift for the task. DIY is very challenging without a lift.
 

Last edited by Ragn0r; 02-28-2016 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:12 AM
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Good pics - including the loom behind the front bumper! (I hope you checked it whilst it was exposed.)
 
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:59 AM
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@JagSTR2004 My coolant temps after 1 heavy foot application would normally rise up to 95°C and stay there for a minute, after the pump installation i've only seen it as high as 93°C on a 74°F day, granted I am at 2000 ft of elevation an in the desert! So perhaps at sea level or somewhere naturally cooler temps should be cooler.

@Ragn0r Nice car I too had the option of putting the car on the lift but opted for the short lift instead, can't really tell from the pictures but the car is off the ground.

@JagV8 what loom?
 

Last edited by Reezy322; 02-28-2016 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 02-28-2016, 11:52 AM
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The fat one that goes right across the car front
 
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Old 02-28-2016, 12:31 PM
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Oh ok, to be honest didn't have enough time too. The place closed at 5 pm, had just enough time to put the car back together and bleed the system. Will add that on things to do next time I'm in there thanks
 
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  #8  
Old 02-28-2016, 01:03 PM
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It's probably (hopefully) fine but when they're damaged at all (pierced is fairly common) and corrode they become a time-bomb
 
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Old 02-28-2016, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Reezy322
@JagSTR2004 My coolant temps after 1 heavy foot application would normally rise up to 95°C and stay there for a minute, after the pump installation i've only seen it as high as 93°C on a 74°F day, granted I am at 2000 ft of elevation an in the desert! So perhaps at sea level or somewhere naturally cooler temps should be cooler.
Nice, would've expected a lit more but every little helps.
 
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:26 AM
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Good pictures too.

But we have never had anyone get better performance after changing the inter-cooler pump?

Have you made any 1/4 mile runs with the change?
Any dyno numbers?
.
.
.
 
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:34 AM
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Next you'll be wanting a true comparison using before & after!

(Of course.)
 
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