S-Type 4.0 overheating
#62
07-01-2014, 10:33 PM
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Please see my first post in this thread for what I have already done in attempt to fix the problem.
Before suggesting something obvious please try to explain how the defect you think causing the problem would comply with the fact that after the temperature hike car is capable of running perfectly in heavy traffic at 95 degree F for hours keeping engine temperature at nominal level? For detailed description of symptoms please read the first post of this thread or my first post.
Blown gasket, stuck thermostat, bed temperature sensor, clogged radiator, defective water pump, cracked expansion tank, and so on... are all permanent conditions that will not go away in 2 minutes. In two years I have this problem I tried almost everything. Now I can drain, fill and bleed cooling system with my eyes closed J
#63
07-01-2014, 11:01 PM
Please see my first post in this thread for what I have already done in attempt to fix the problem. Before suggesting something obvious please try to explain how the defect you think causing the problem would comply with the fact that after the temperature hike car is capable of running perfectly in heavy traffic at 95 degree F for hours keeping engine temperature at nominal level? For detailed description of symptoms please read the first post of this thread or my first post. Blown gasket, stuck thermostat, bed temperature sensor, clogged radiator, defective water pump, cracked expansion tank, and so on... are all permanent conditions that will not go away in 2 minutes. In two years I have this problem I tried almost everything. Now I can drain, fill and bleed cooling system with my eyes closed J
#64
07-02-2014, 01:52 AM
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07-02-2014, 09:57 AM
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In the two other cases being discussed , the symptoms were similar if not identical if I am reading things correctly. The fix for both was replacing leaking head gaskets. What's not been discussed is why neither case seemed to experience loss of coolant either through boil over or consumption through the combustion chamber.
#66
07-02-2014, 09:22 PM
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Many of us here have similar backgrounds and experience. Big deal.
In the two other cases being discussed , the symptoms were similar if not identical if I am reading things correctly. The fix for both was replacing leaking head gaskets. What's not been discussed is why neither case seemed to experience loss of coolant either through boil over or consumption through the combustion chamber.
In the two other cases being discussed , the symptoms were similar if not identical if I am reading things correctly. The fix for both was replacing leaking head gaskets. What's not been discussed is why neither case seemed to experience loss of coolant either through boil over or consumption through the combustion chamber.
I apologize if I offended anyone by disclosing my experience. I did not mean to brag it, just wanted to point out that advise to check coolant level does not make much sense at this level of technical discussion.
Back to our business –
I concur with you on the blown head gasket as possible cause to be questionable. Let’s assume exhaust gases found their way into cooling system through a microscopic hole in the head gasket. In the first 5 minutes of driving time it created an air plug that caused temperature hike. Then this air plug was pushed into expansion tank by circulating coolant though heater core and then purged out through cap/relief valve. So far so good. But from this moment logical chain of events fails to comply with the facts. How come this air bubble does not happen in the next 5 minutes, next hour, next 5 hours of driving? Climate control system is off, driving conditions are the same as at the beginning of the trip… I cannot explain that. Actually, it crossed my mind that it might happen only under condition when engine is cold. But then there are some days when temperature hike does not happen, and ones in a blue moon a day when I have a repeated occurrence of temperature hike when engine is still hot…? In addition, head gasket failure is not a defect that can remain for two years with no progress. It usually developers pretty fast and it take just a couple of days for the engine to go down.
#67
07-03-2014, 06:47 AM
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vf_jaguar,
I was advising ElizabethE to check her coolant level and coolant components, not you. I'll go edit my post now to make certain that is clear....
Keep in mind that the majority of these threads do not revolve around just one participant in them. The stream-of-conciousness tendencies often are directed to a number of folks in the thread. Nothing wrong with that....
I was advising ElizabethE to check her coolant level and coolant components, not you. I'll go edit my post now to make certain that is clear....
Keep in mind that the majority of these threads do not revolve around just one participant in them. The stream-of-conciousness tendencies often are directed to a number of folks in the thread. Nothing wrong with that....
Last edited by Jon89; 07-03-2014 at 06:53 AM.
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#68
07-03-2014, 10:41 AM
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I think this is excellent advice for anyone who is having apparent overheating issues with a car.
#69
07-03-2014, 09:32 PM
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Replace the thermostat with a different thermostat. Not all are made equal even within a brand.
The factory thermostat by WaxStat has a larger opening and stroke as compared to the aftermarket units. One of the Gates/Napa numbers is actually a reboxed Waxstat as I have posted several times. They also sell a more generic version which is not as nice.
Another German thermostat has an even larger opening and stroke than the WaxStat.
#70
07-03-2014, 10:39 PM
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Oops, sorry, my mistake. I thought Jaguar forum thread “S-Type 4.0 overheating” has something to do with Jaguar S-Type 4.0 overheating
#71
07-03-2014, 11:01 PM
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Binary result.
Replace the thermostat with a different thermostat. Not all are made equal even within a brand.
The factory thermostat by WaxStat has a larger opening and stroke as compared to the aftermarket units. One of the Gates/Napa numbers is actually a reboxed Waxstat as I have posted several times. They also sell a more generic version which is not as nice.
Another German thermostat has an even larger opening and stroke than the WaxStat.
Replace the thermostat with a different thermostat. Not all are made equal even within a brand.
The factory thermostat by WaxStat has a larger opening and stroke as compared to the aftermarket units. One of the Gates/Napa numbers is actually a reboxed Waxstat as I have posted several times. They also sell a more generic version which is not as nice.
Another German thermostat has an even larger opening and stroke than the WaxStat.
Thank you, useful information about thermostats.
I went through three thermostats from different sources including OEM from dealership. Boiled two of them to verify opening temperature and clearance. Came to conclusion: presence of a thermostat makes symptoms worth comparing to driving without a thermostat, but thermostat cannot be the root cause of the problem. One more observation that proves thermostat is fine: when the temperature gage needle comes to vertical position as engine temperature rises, it stops there for a few minutes before it start moving rapidly to the right. I read that stop as a opening of the thermostat as it should be. What happens after that is still a puzzle.
#72
07-03-2014, 11:30 PM
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I don't think I saw your intro in the new members section yet?
Here's a useful link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
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abonano (07-04-2014)
#73
07-04-2014, 01:23 AM
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but thermostat cannot be the root cause of the problem. One more observation that proves thermostat is fine: when the temperature gage needle comes to vertical position as engine temperature rises, it stops there for a few minutes before it start moving rapidly to the right. I read that stop as a opening of the thermostat as it should be. What happens after that is still a puzzle.
(This has been pointed out on the site many many times.)
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abonano (07-04-2014)
#74
07-04-2014, 09:38 AM
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (01-06-2016)
#75
07-04-2014, 10:15 AM
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Speaking of that, I guess many of our US members are going to be celebrating the 4th of July with BBQs today. As a measure of the close ties between Canada and our neighbours to the south, we have July 4th on all of our calenders too.
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#76
07-04-2014, 11:04 AM
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07-04-2014, 02:53 PM
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#78
07-04-2014, 03:35 PM
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Thank you, useful information about thermostats.
I went through three thermostats from different sources including OEM from dealership. Boiled two of them to verify opening temperature and clearance. Came to conclusion: presence of a thermostat makes symptoms worth comparing to driving without a thermostat, but thermostat cannot be the root cause of the problem. One more observation that proves thermostat is fine: when the temperature gage needle comes to vertical position as engine temperature rises, it stops there for a few minutes before it start moving rapidly to the right. I read that stop as a opening of the thermostat as it should be. What happens after that is still a puzzle.
The two possibilities would then be a flaw in the thermostat actually in use. Or, the thermostat is fine, but flow is marginal and the thermostat is enough restriction to show the flaw.
As this is intermittent, have you checked that the lower radiator hose is not tempoarily collapsing from suction at the time this happens?
#79
07-05-2014, 07:33 AM
Let's try a restatement then. With the thermostat out, there is sufficient coolant flow at all times to keep the engine cool. With the thermostat in, there is not.
The two possibilities would then be a flaw in the thermostat actually in use. Or, the thermostat is fine, but flow is marginal and the thermostat is enough restriction to show the flaw.
As this is intermittent, have you checked that the lower radiator hose is not tempoarily collapsing from suction at the time this happens?
The two possibilities would then be a flaw in the thermostat actually in use. Or, the thermostat is fine, but flow is marginal and the thermostat is enough restriction to show the flaw.
As this is intermittent, have you checked that the lower radiator hose is not tempoarily collapsing from suction at the time this happens?
In this case the third possibility is with the thermostat installed the air builds up that is squeaking out of a faulty head gasket and causes the thermostat to close and remain closed (or until the climate control is turned on and the aux pump pushes the air out to the resivour tank) and when the thermostat is taken out, it stops the air from building up around the engine block and may have a chance to escape to the resivour tank.
The hoses will be at max pressure as dictated buy the release pressure of the resivour cap, the cap will release this air pressure build up over and over again.
#80
07-05-2014, 08:07 AM
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