Hi All, I have found this forum an absolute gift. However I'm struggling hugely at the moment and need some help!

My ride, which I've had for nearly two years, has never cuased me any trouble and enjoy it to the full, however, Friday week back I drove about 120 miles home through some really bad rain mostly on the M25 which is unusual to be driving rather than being stationary and start stopping! Anyways, not a blink not a flash of lights warning that is and no choking or spluttering absolutely great ride. Got home stopped car unloaded some bags and then started her up again to take my daughter to work. Came back parked up over night. Went to the car to start next morning central locks all came off ignition noise releasing steering lock as usual turned key all instrument lights came up as usual turned to engage starter and ............Silence, not a noise, then on the LED panel up came, ABS Fault, DSC unavailable, Drivers door open, Gearbox Fault, ParkBrake Fault. Thought this could be battery, Jumped the battery with wifes car still nothing. Checked the fuses all fuses in all three box's fine, when ignition on ECM seems to kick in so thought starter motor, Jumped relay in engine compartment and starte turns engine over.Did't want to fire up.

Called RAC, they OBD and got P1637, P1638, P1000, & P1699 the technician had no solution and honestly said this was teh 2nd S-type he'd ever been out to. Apart from a tow to the local Jaguar dealer I was left scratching my head having looked up the codes.

So.........here I went. Water ingression on the ECM got to that under the air intake filter and removed, absolutely no water no damp even from the Air con area. Factory condition, as was the Front Electronic Module (FEM) behind passenger kick panel, and the Rear Electronic Module (REM) on chassis harness in the o/s boot area just near filler cap. Boot floor and complete compartment absolutely dry, adjusted earths points those I could find in boot. Downloaded wiring diagram and started to meter relays, jacked up and removed and cleaned ABS & speed sensors. Front ones Ohms 720/30 at split connectors behind wheel splash guards. On the diagnostic Plug (OBD plugin) understeering wheel at Pin 6 and 14 ohms at 128, Checked and removed plug harness at ABS cluster where the DSC box attached no ingression in fact all plug/connectors all electrolytic silliconed up so no corrossion either.

Had an auto electrician look at it and he doesnt seem to know coming up with the network works on Can link High and Can link Low and if the data doesnt match when the ECM reads it won't connect the other services. But he has no resolve to the issue.

So I'm really in need of some advice if anyone has any to give me. I just can't understand why this happend when the car was parked up. Oh another point even with the ignition on and foot on brake it will not slide out of Park but if you try to move the stick to the left the b,b,b,b,b,b,b, alarm goes off confirming microswitch in the gearbox assembly is operative.



Thanks in advance
HotelFoxtrott
S-type, 4.2 SE 2002

 

CAN should be 60 ohms so looks like a module with terminator is absent for whatever reason. Elec Guide shows the 2 with them (120 ohms each) as PCM & ICM.

P1637, P1638 & P1699 are all CAN faults.

But... worry why you have P1000. That means the OBD monitors have not run OK since the last OBD code clear. Why? What has happened? Has someone cleared codes before you got the codes?

Now, if you've a weird fault the place to look I suggest is the loom behind front bumper & it's also high up in wheel arches. Painful to hunt, though. Worth cross-checking the faults with the Elec Guide as you can see splices and to some extent routing if you look at it diligently.

If it IS the loom, it's been going bad for years and some extra time or water has finally hit.

The usual cause, though, would have been a failing battery. Starts the car, causes bizarre faults. The wrong ohms - can't see it causing that.

 

I noticed that when the RAC technician took the first OBD he reset them or cleared but strange it came up in the first instance. Unless it was part of the cycle to end the 1637/38 before it checked out 1699!

Still if a CAN error which its looking likely then its worth checking all possibilities. The interesting point you raise about loom break is valid in an assumption. A short while back prior last MOT my Horns decided to stop working. The Jaguar dealer I got the car from couldnt find it unless they were to drop the engine tray and meter it. I did'nt pursue their theory and checked it out my self by powering horns seperately they worked, Checked the steering wheel push switch on meter it worked so Fuse box and underneath wire completley corroded and broken in halh. Spliced and hey presto noisey horns again. So there is a good chance this could be a lead to the loom issue. Where abouts are you suggesting on the front bumper area is it within reasonable eye shot or needs alot out of the way to get at?

The other bit I was going to check out was the ABS/DSC plug seeing as this is the first error that illuminates on the faults. I've read resistance on pin 11 yellow to pin 14 green with the ignition OFF and do the same for pin 12 yellow to pin 15 green should split the CAN network at might give an indication of which part to give the attention on checking. My trouble is I cant find any reference on how to recognise the pins is there a layout chart I could link to ?

 

Grab JTIS and I reckon it has CAN troubleshooting (and vast amounts more). There were bumper-off pics on UK forum, but I think now absent as on some other file host, but as I recall the loom's rather obvious once bumper is off. Take some and post on here if you do this! (There may be some - have a hunt.)

I'd not power anything up without a Mongoose JLR (clone) to reset modules if you split the CAN or anything along those lines. Almost all errors are non-volatile...

 

thanks will take a hunt through and see if JTIS loads did try but had issues with this as well..........Aaaaah
What is the reference to Mongoose JLR (Clone)?

 

That's a LOT of work!

I did not see how old the battery is? Sometimes jumping will not work either. Since it started out of the blue I would try a new battery just as a test.

Not really sure otherwise as your codes are rare and we do not see them?
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Hi Tbird6
Yeap a LOT of work but gets you to know your vehicle thats for sure. There's a reason for all this "Karma" effect me thinks. I drove through some really really bad weather and it got me home. Only on my driveway it decided to stop working. Now thats Luck or Karma!

I did buy a new battery and try but no changing effect. :¬(

I'll post my efforts as I go through them. My next task is to try and work out which section of the loom or connector has either broken, corroded or whatever. I'll find where to start but my thinking is that if the ABS is the first fault lodged then its going to be at the ABS/DSC cluster Plug in the engine compartment and I'll have to trace it through by individual tests.

Not having much luck on the JTIS download anyone advise where I can get an easy download for say vista or Win7?

Hotelfoxtrott
S-type 4.2 SE 2002
"If at first you don't succeed try try again"
" The impossible can be done right away but the miraculous takes just a bit longer"

 

download it from the link in my signature

 

MY 2004 xj8 70k is having the same exact issue. i recently took it to jaguar and when i was jiggling the fuse box the car would start. it worked like that for a day or two then just suddenly stopped. i ordered the front fuse box and i installed it and the car never started. the relay was working in the fuse box because with the bad box i could not get my code reader to work but after i switched the x350 fuse box i could get the scanner codes. the dealer wanted 1300.00 th change the fuse box! i found it on ebay and did it myself in 15 minutes. but now the car will still not start and is getting codes p1000, p1637,p1638,p1699. i am starting to lose faith in my technical skills gointto have to tow it back to jag for another 130$ diagnostic. lol. would love to find someone who knew how to solve this issue now.

 

Your car is so different that it makes no sense to post here. Please use the right forum.

 

If you are going to try to look at the wire harnesses there are two area's that have been reported.

The front bumper and the two front wheel well liners. I would pull the front bumper. It's harder than it sounds! Inspect the harness.

Then remove each front wheel well liner and inspect those wire bundles.
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Look for a thread started by me in the Xj8 section "my no start saga" for some easier fix.

 

Guys

Well Jag V8 is on the money, Sat Saturday after figuring out how to install the JTIS and studied it like I was back at Uni - that was a longtime ago LOL!

Having, spliced the Can Link (Twisted pair Yellow and Green) from the ECM and terminated it at the Diagnostic plug 6 & 14 the car started, tried the similar idea with stainless steel pins in the ABS/DSCM plug 10 yellow 14 green pins (these ohm'd at 120) it didnt start zilch nada!.

Checked all modules again around the vehicle to ensure i had plugged all connectors back in and yeap all good. So dissapointed which is why my saturday afternoon started me at the JTIS manual.

Sunday decided to trace from the ABS/DSCM the twisted pair so removed the headlamp cluster front bumper and skirt released splash panel in wheel arches, (there's a hidden 10mm bolt that holds the fold around edgeo f bumber under the splash panel and quiet a bit up the inside so be aware if all visible bolts and clips come off this is whats not letting it budge)

There is an absolute cluster of wires which converge just at the edge of the chassis front box section and wrapped up in plastic covered trunking which was full and I do mean full of water. Traced the pair along the front chassis box section and split the cables open to inspect every inch. Just before the N/S Headlamp cluster and where the Grill edge sits down past the box section when in place the yellow cable had been exposed and rubbing, wearing the sheath off. There was no copper cable just green oxidated powder. Cut the section out and spliced together checked all was back in original place on the loom and turned the key. HEY PRESTO!!!!! started.

Made good all the splices with cutting soldering and sheathing with glue shrink wrap covers and had the codes cleared.

Good as new and have to say a big thanks to you guys Jag V8 for the insight on the JTIS without which I'd not have had dreams of removing the front bumper housing as it had to be the most logical following the events and coupled with tbird6 suggestion of front loom in wheel wells and behind bumper it all paid off.

Now I'm more intimate with the wiring and recovering very much with love and care I'm going to enjoy some more comfortable miles shortly.

Am going to write to Jaguar about this little event as I really am hoping that their now new wiring looms are more professionaly put togther rather than it being in someones shed on an outsourced basis. It really is frightful the way and where it has been put on this model and the sharp edges it has to navigate around.

Asset loss in episode:

8 X sheared bolts
9 X Torx screws and Spring clips
Snapped Bumper fitting hole edges = Arildite pug and re-drill required
Cracked Splash panel O/S = replace or fibre glass matt over
ECM outer plug cover, Very brittle = glued and mastic covered
ABS/DSCM plug cover, very brittle = heat does this over time will re fashion
New Battery £119 = managed to get money back
tools broken one = can't find inspection mirror and Torx 1/4 T30?

Not bad me thinks.

 

Well done!

I'm sad to say that we've now seen quite a few problems with the harness, especially in the UK - granted we get weather that really doesn't help.

Jaguar built them here and inevitably do know our weather so there really really really is NO excuse. They cannot duck this one.

 

I am in agreement on this for sure! The bit that gets me though is where you'd expect most damage at the front the near entire wiring loom nerve ends are exposed. If I hadt he patience and I were rebuilding one of these from sctratch, I'd move all that in to the engine bay which would do two positive and one negative things. first P would be dry, second P heat from compartment would keep any type corrosion down. Negative less room in the engine area and more work on getting it through the fire wall Bulkhead.

 

I'll take a look, always good to compare notes.

 

The best thing is you came back and told us what the problem was!!

All of this list is useless unless we get feedback. We are all just guessing from many miles away!!

I sure would like a picture of the damage if possible?? Good description.
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Well thanks for the response. I have pics how do I get them up on here as the image insert calls for them to be on a URL?

 

If you Go Advanced there's a Manage Attachments link that open a new window and in there you can browse to a file on your computer.

 

Just click "New Reply" to open up the entire thing.

Look at "Manage Attachments" below where you write you E-mail message. Then like JagV8 said browse your computer and find the file you want to upload. Once you have uploaded the file I like to insert the picture in the body of the message. Here is where you uploaded file will show up.





So right click the link of the file you uploaded and choose copy shortcut from the drop down menu.

Then when you insert the picture. (Remember you click on the picture symbol).



Then paste your copied short cut into where it asks for the URL.





I did this 3 times to make this message.
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