S type automatic gearbox slipping
#1
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Hi everybody,
Greetings from Cornwall.
My 2000 S type 3.0 automatic, 74000 miles, with the 5R55N gearbox, has an issue.
It started to shudder in "Drive" under constant throttle when you drive up a hill or incline.
I flushed the gearbox, drained and refilled the gearbox and torque converter, new filter, added an anti shudder additive and went for a drive.
No more "shudder" BUT "gearbox fault" message came up after 5 minutes and the gearbox started to slip, just like a manual gearbox with a slipping clutch. This happens every time I go out in the car.
If you are gentle with the throttle, the gearbox eventually delivers some drive.
Have I missed something, done something wrong, or is this a whole new problem??
The car does have a OBD2 connector.
Any advice or suggestions gratefully received.
mcteg
Greetings from Cornwall.
My 2000 S type 3.0 automatic, 74000 miles, with the 5R55N gearbox, has an issue.
It started to shudder in "Drive" under constant throttle when you drive up a hill or incline.
I flushed the gearbox, drained and refilled the gearbox and torque converter, new filter, added an anti shudder additive and went for a drive.
No more "shudder" BUT "gearbox fault" message came up after 5 minutes and the gearbox started to slip, just like a manual gearbox with a slipping clutch. This happens every time I go out in the car.
If you are gentle with the throttle, the gearbox eventually delivers some drive.
Have I missed something, done something wrong, or is this a whole new problem??
The car does have a OBD2 connector.
Any advice or suggestions gratefully received.
mcteg
#2
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I flushed the gearbox, drained and refilled the gearbox and torque converter, new filter, added an anti shudder additive and went for a drive.
No more "shudder" BUT "gearbox fault" message came up after 5 minutes and the gearbox started to slip, just like a manual gearbox with a slipping clutch.
No more "shudder" BUT "gearbox fault" message came up after 5 minutes and the gearbox started to slip, just like a manual gearbox with a slipping clutch.
Hmm. The "gearbox fault" is a new symptom, only starting after the other work was accomplished?
If "gearbox fault" was displayed, the PCM should have a fault code saved. This should give you an idea of what is happening. Some of the codes can be retrieved by a regular OBD II scanner or code reader. I'd suggest that first. If you don't have a scanner or code reader, make sure whoever reads it will give you the alphanumeric code such as P0745, not just the generic definition the machine may give you. Some of the codes are here:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...tos/P20000.PDF
My experience with "gearbox fault" and P0745 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-p0745-205599/
I also wonder if adding the anti-shudder additive was too much with the new fluid. IIRC, such an additive is intended more for existing fluid, not new stuff. Since new fluid is probably going to already have some anti-shudder properties, you may have ended up with too much. It may be worthwhile to drain and discard the existing new fluid/additive mix and refill with just fresh fluid.
Also, your symptoms don't seem to match typical "shudder" conditions. From my limited experience, I'd define shudder as a light fluctuation that only occurs when the transmission is lightly loaded, such as at cruise on the highway. Slipping under heavy acceleration is another critter altogether. An additive designed to help reduce a fault when lightly loaded may worsen a slipping condition.
If you need to have a shop investigate this, don't let anybody tell you this is some exotic transmission that only the dealer can handle. It's a Ford 5R55N, a VERY common transmission. There are approximately several bazillion of these in service around the world. Any competent transmission shop can handle any repairs that may be required.
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Cream (09-02-2019)
#3
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Thank you for your reply.
I have got the following fault codes up ;- P0731 gear 1 incorrect ratio, P0733 gear 3 incorrect ratio and P0734 gear 4 incorrect ratio.
I agree with you that new fluid, filter and anti shudder additive might be too much, and I am planning to flush out this mixture and replace it with just the correct ATF.
I have also found the procedure to enable the transmission to re-learn its operating parameters. I will try this also
Regards
mcteg
I have got the following fault codes up ;- P0731 gear 1 incorrect ratio, P0733 gear 3 incorrect ratio and P0734 gear 4 incorrect ratio.
I agree with you that new fluid, filter and anti shudder additive might be too much, and I am planning to flush out this mixture and replace it with just the correct ATF.
I have also found the procedure to enable the transmission to re-learn its operating parameters. I will try this also
Regards
mcteg
#4
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If you shift through the gears manually, does it still slip? 6 months ago, I had the same symptoms, but taking the shifter out of drive and worked through the gears manually, there was no slipping. All I did was capture the codes, and clear them. Next start-up, (and ever since) the transmission was back to normal!
Ghost in the machine!
Ghost in the machine!
Last edited by Warspite; 08-15-2019 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Spell check
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kr98664 (08-15-2019)
#5
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What about the fluid level? Any chance it's not correct? Too high or low can cause problems. Not sure it would cause your exact symptoms. Or maybe the neck of the new filter didn't seal well to where it plugs in, and is sucking air. Just thinking out loud of any possible faults that could have been accidentally induced during the recent work.
I should point out that I'm not a transmission expert. I'm just trying to piece together clues of what might have happened when the problem worsened.
I should point out that I'm not a transmission expert. I'm just trying to piece together clues of what might have happened when the problem worsened.
#6
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Thanks for your replies.
Ok,
I have selected manual 4th gear to get out of a slipping event but it is hard to tell what's going on in the transmission.
I am going to do the whole job again flushing out the A T fluid and additives. I'll drop the pan and drain it also.
Before I drain I will check the fluid level. I am usually obsessed with details like that !. But we all make mistakes .
I have access to a good scan tool which will enable me to read and erase the codes identified in my last message and make the transmission re-learn its parameters.
Regards
mcteg
Ok,
I have selected manual 4th gear to get out of a slipping event but it is hard to tell what's going on in the transmission.
I am going to do the whole job again flushing out the A T fluid and additives. I'll drop the pan and drain it also.
Before I drain I will check the fluid level. I am usually obsessed with details like that !. But we all make mistakes .
I have access to a good scan tool which will enable me to read and erase the codes identified in my last message and make the transmission re-learn its parameters.
Regards
mcteg
#7
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#9
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Thanks for the responses.. I am in Eire not the UK so any work by a specialist in the UK will involve shipping or delivery of the unit. I have had a response from one company in the UK so far, Borg Warner Specialist, in Leeds;
The Borg Warner Model DG transmissions are one of the earliest automatic transmissions, and they are much more complex than the BW35. Parts are more expensive and labour hours are significantly more involved pushing up costs. Our standard cost for a BW Model DG recondition is approx £2,600 if there is no major hard parts failure. If there is further problems and hard parts need replacing this could add approx £500. In most cases, it’s just friction material that fails, which can be picked up in the standard recondition cost of £2,600. The Jaguar S Type did fit the BW35 in later models, therefore it is possible to fit this gearbox in your vehicle. The cost to recondition a BW35 is £495, significantly less than the model DG. Now changing from your DG to a 35 will not be straight forward. You will need to make modifications for; gearbox mount, selector mechanism, throttle linkage / kickdown cable mechanism and propshaft. We do have the parts available to make this swap. This includes, BW35 S Type Gearbox, Converter, Bell-housing and kickdown cable. You will have to make the other modifications yourself. We will require your DG gearbox and converter in exchange to avoid a surcharge.
Regards
Chris
The Borg Warner Model DG transmissions are one of the earliest automatic transmissions, and they are much more complex than the BW35. Parts are more expensive and labour hours are significantly more involved pushing up costs. Our standard cost for a BW Model DG recondition is approx £2,600 if there is no major hard parts failure. If there is further problems and hard parts need replacing this could add approx £500. In most cases, it’s just friction material that fails, which can be picked up in the standard recondition cost of £2,600. The Jaguar S Type did fit the BW35 in later models, therefore it is possible to fit this gearbox in your vehicle. The cost to recondition a BW35 is £495, significantly less than the model DG. Now changing from your DG to a 35 will not be straight forward. You will need to make modifications for; gearbox mount, selector mechanism, throttle linkage / kickdown cable mechanism and propshaft. We do have the parts available to make this swap. This includes, BW35 S Type Gearbox, Converter, Bell-housing and kickdown cable. You will have to make the other modifications yourself. We will require your DG gearbox and converter in exchange to avoid a surcharge.
Regards
Chris
#10
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