This is a bit of a girly story but please help if you can. I am fairly technically minded. I have an S type Jaguar 2.5 classic, last week the car tried to turn over (wur wur stop no more) but would not start but the dash lights lit up and the central locking works. The air con was on at the time and kept switching on and off at position 2 on the key.

I had a jump cable start and the car started right away, but the ABS and Park brake have gone in to Fault and stuck on, being an experienced jaguar owner I have my own ODB reader for my laptop and it says P1637. I tried a full reset Positive and Plus cables together 10 mins, but nothing.

So before hooking the battery back up I took out all the fuses and checked them and also swapped the Relays around, 3 blown F fuses including the rear brake lights F35 footwell and trunk EPB 30a fuse. so may explain why stuck in Park with Handrake on, I replaced these fuses.

Wired battery back together and can not even start the car now, no starter motor and very little electrics working. When I turn key to 2 the Security light near the front window goes solid and when turned to 3 it goes off as does the mileage display.

This maybe a case of a little knowledge is always a danger, but I am in France and do not speaky the language :-) If anyone can help I would appreciate it

 

I'd be very worried as to why those fuses blew. Very.
Sounds likely due to the jump start but if so then something very bad happened. No fuse at all should have blown. One would be worrying, 2 very, and 3 scares me.

It sounds like all you had initially was a flattish/failing battery but what you have now??? I hope someone has magic answers.

Otherwise, I'd work through the circuits one by one looking for which work and which are damaged. Actually, I'd start by hooking up a dealer-type OBD tool to see which modules still communicate and what codes they have.

 

The good samaritan who stop to jump lead my car attached the leads and the negative to his car, but touched the red lead on the body of his own car. This caused a spark at his car and probably blew the fuses which were all EPB ones. Also now I know that you should not attached both leads to the Battery in an S Type Jaguar, only the Red and the other to another ground in the car, also the donor car was running and he revved it, which can cause other issues.

However, the car did start after the jump, and I ran it for several hours to charge it, but it would not realease the EPB or come out of Park. This is when I checked the fuses by pulling them in turn and swapping the front relays for the back and now nothing works, but again the battery is very low hardly moves the windows.

Unlike another post related to the same kind of thing, I am sure I have all the right fuses in the right locations and there are no more burned out fuses left.

I am wondering whether the immobiliser is on or the anti theft. This is why I am here, though I will be checking the relays ASP.

As soon as it stops raining I will start to check the relays click and also have power to the sockets.

If there are any engineers online, happy to receive advise rather than a wow thats not good?

 

If you didn't like what I posted you ought to have provided more detail in the first place. I would have been able to be more help. Oh well.

 

I'm 300 mile away from a dealer, so no dealers ODB here. My ammeter is at work 700 miles away and I do not want to spend money if I only have to take it to a Citroen garage anyway.

I am cold and wet and have been testing power on the relays since early this morning. I think that 1 of the relays may be faulty as I have moved them and the faults have also moved.

All I need to know is is it possible to check to see it the immobiliser or another security device is stopping to car from starting. And also is the solid security light normal for position 2 and then off for position 3?

 

I tried to start the car this morning and the relays front (under hood) and back (in tunk) keep clicking even after taking the key out. Its like the car is being turned onto 2 and then off again, really quickly. I have again disconnected the battery and have put it on charge for 24 hours.

I am a bit shocked that no one on this forum can help or offer any advice about this problem.

This is the worst car I have eve had, gearbox faults, abs faults, can faults, front bearing problems but only found when out of warranty when I had complained about it for 2 services, the LURCH going from 50 to 30 then slowly excellerating, jerking and clunking into gear when crawling, instrument issues, abs module replaced, pinking engine which dealer says can not happen, squeaky steering.

40,000 miles later my advice is don't buy a Jaguar not even a new one. These cars are programmed to fail, you may as well burn your money on the fire and keep yourself warm instead of buying this car and then trying to keep it on the road.

 

My guess is that the good samiritan actually CROSSED the jumper cables, which caused relays, High current fuses and other assorted fuses to blow.

Best thing to do is pull each fuse from each box inspect and replace, same with the relays, there is a way to check each realy for operation, there are pin outs on the internet on how they operate,

essentially on the relay use a 9V square battery, - from the battery to the GND of the relay, + from the battery to PWR and TRIGGER on the relay and it should click.

if it does not click then it will need to be replaced.

the good samaritan could have caused you to have some very expensive repairs. due to reverse connections.

 

Not sure what you have going so I will be asking a few questions. How long was the car sitting prior to your not starting situation? Who installed the jumper cables and were the positive and negative crossed? What fuses were blown? Why did you swap the relays and pull the fuses? Right now I know that you are in France and you have an S-Type but have no idea what year to look up the code. You say you have a OBD reader and you see a P01637 and you are trying to do a full reset with the batter cables and you are unable to restart the car.
I know that you want help and we would like to do that but you need to give us a little direction. I say direction because we have no real idea what is going on and why. Your last post indicates you got it started and that is a good thing with the exception of the relays chattering and that is not good. Did you pull the battery out of the car when you charged it? My guess is that you need to check that your fuses and relays for being seated properly. I am also concerned that when you attempted to jump start the car the jumper cable were crossed.

I do agree with the idea of the high current fuses being blown. Good point Mafioso!

 

unfortunatly its VERY easy to cross connect them in our cars, since the battery is in the trunk and not clearly marked as far as the factory battery is concerned, aftermarket batteries make it that much worse. and my fear is the OP where it was stated

"The good samaritan who stop to jump lead my car attached the leads and the negative to his car, but touched the red lead on the body of his own car. This caused a spark at his car and probably blew the fuses which were all EPB ones. Also now I know that you should not attached both leads to the Battery in an S Type Jaguar, only the Red and the other to another ground in the car, also the donor car was running and he revved it, which can cause other issues."

Ground and the positive on his Chassis shorted the circuit and ARC'ED not sparked. Hopfully the fuses caught surge before reaching any modules and it will be just a matter of locating all of the damaged fuses and relays.

Otherwise modules will have to be replaced.

 

Mafioso, the relay test with a 9v battery is really useful, thank you for this.

I have not been making much sense in my posts. I'm sorry for this and will try and explain better.

Jaguar 2003/53 2.5L approx 40,000 miles. Car stood outside for 6 days, then I drive 20 miles to town and back and it will be stood until I do the same trip again the following week. Some short trips are possible and I went to the village (5 miles away) at night, 4 days prior to the flat battery.
Thursday:
The car initial tried to turn over with just a wur, air con display came on and off but key left at switch ignition 2. Someone pulled up to help and connected the leads the correct way to my battery. Then hooked up the black to their battery and their positive on their battery was very closed to the body, the red lead touched his car body and sparked, my alarm sounded in my car and I reset it using the key in ignition.

After the car started first time, the park brake was stuck on and J gate gear stick stuck in park, the interior door open lights did not come on when car is started and the trunk release button is not working from inside the car. The door lights do come on when the car is turned off. I decided to run to car to charge the battery but after several hours it was just the same.
Friday
I was starting to think it was a fuse so started by pulling the fuses to check in the trunk and pulled F1 the green one and the alarm went off, I cancelled the alarm and disconnected the battery and continued to check fuses. The Trunk 30A (F35) and the Passenger 5A (F35) had both blown, the 3rd fuse was actually in the spare fuses section according to my handbook and is a 5A, which i replaced anyway. After checking all the fuses and moving the relays around, I can not even start the car now and have so many accessories not working, alarm by fob, door opening by fob, interior lights, mileage display, windows hardly move I had to help them back up. so I'm thinking a faulty relay has moved to a critical position.
Saturday:
I decided to try and start the car again hoping the fault had gone, nothing turned over and battery nearly flat.
Sunday:
I opened the trunk using the key and the beeping alarm went off (normally a horn??), I put the key in the ignition to stop it and the relays started clicking like mad even though I removed the key to stop it. I disconnected the battery, I have it on charge even now. Well I say that but the cheapest battery charger (overnight charger 750A) 30 euros does not have a red or a green light on, so I'm hoping it is charging. When I hook up the leads from the charge to the car battery the green light goes off. This jaguar battery is so heavy as well, weights more than my dog??

I will be checking the relays today thanks to your help. I hope it is not a module as it sounds expensive and I am really not that well off any more. If anyone wants a chat I can skype or I can ring you if you speak english.

If the car ever starts again, I have made a wire with a 5a fuse on both leads, to take off the handbrake in case it is the EPB module at fault. This will at least wind off the handbrake. Here are my instructions from another forum, unhook the battery from car, the EPB wires are at the base of my EPB module nearest the ground/road and are the red stripped and green stripped connectors in the plug. The green stripped to live and red stripped to negative should unwind the cable, if you reverse the wires neg and pos, then it will put the handbrake on. Hold only for 3 secs or until the winding stops, always fuse the positive wire. I'm not sure about this procedure and will only use it if the EPB is still stuck on, as it will save me hundreds of euros in recovery costs.

The Jgate Gear stick I think was stuck in park due to Fuse 35 passenger footwell, because no brake lights, but i know where the overide is thanks to another forum.

I have checked the inertia switch it is fine.

I intend to "charge" the car battery (hopefully) for the next few days and will check relays as soon as I have the diagram.

Thanks for any help you may have!

 

Windows hardly moving strongly suggests a lack of power from the battery.

You'll find from lots of other posts on this forum that the battery is very critical: it must supply LOTS of amps AND not drop far in voltage while doing that. Weird errors, clicking relays, etc all point to a failing or inadequate battery. It may recover by being slowly charged but may not. You'll also find from many other posts here that old-fashioned "checking" of a battery is utterly useless for a modern car since it fails to replicate what occurs during attempts to start.

 

My battery is flat and I do have it on a slow charge (hopefully), but the jump start hasn't helped me out as the positive on the battery was grounded by my knight in not so shining armour :

Someone called around within the hour with a replacement battery and tried to start the car, some more elctrics worked but not many and the car did not start, the starter motor didn't even try. I asked them if the battery was charged and he said "It should be". He tried to jump lead the car and still nothing.

I take it it isn't possible that the new battery as well as a jump lack amps and voltage.

When it stops raining, I will go and get my relays and start checking them.

 

Tania, first off I think you need to appologise to jagv8 from the first couple of posts. The other members are being very helpful as well.

This site is a wealth of knowledge and the members here in the S section are extremely knowledgable!

Heres my read on your vehicle. You need a NEW battery with a full charge! When I say new I mean NEW, not used by someone else and new to you. Once you have installed the NEW battery, crank vehicle over if it starts, consider yourself very lucky. Do a search on how the reset EBP and your good to go. If the vehicle does not start (which I believe will be the case) you have to recheck EVERY fuse and relay again. Even purchase a couple of fuses and relay to check the system.

If none of the above works, does France have a version of AAA (towing service) as you are going to need it! The vehicle will have to be towed to a professional!

The rant about your vehicle being basically a POS, well did you not do your homework prior to purchasing it? What you had typed are fairly simple repairs that have been covered on this site with step by step instructions with pictures and videos, does your "other" site offer that?

Unfortunately what could have been a simple battery replacement is now going to become a major headache.

Good Luck

 

Your on the right path, just make sure you remove each fuse physically out of the fuse box and visually inspect.

I better way is with a multimeter checking ohms or continuity of the fuse.

 

Believe me owning a Jaguar, I am thankful whenever it cranks and more thankful if it drives too, its always a bonus with a Jaguar.

Homework? on a brand new car with a few miles on the clock in 2004 when I purchased it. I wished I had.

 

I have a simple power/connection tester which I am using to test the fuses and relays. I will go out to car in a minute and pull the relays and test in here in the warm. I will let you know when I have tested everything.

 

What does this mean "devirginized within the first hour of ownership"

 

Haha within the first hour of owning the car I modified it, I really should change my signature

 

Mafioso, I took it as you ran it like a "raped ape"!


Back to OP, another thought is, there was a user here that pulled a few relays and he did not put one back in its correct slot. Just a thought.

 

Cool, though I thought it was a fix or something term!

My car battery has been on charge for ages so took back out to car a miutre ago. Some more electrics are working, at least the aircon comes on etc with the battery now and windows are a little quicker, but still no starter motor, just red light solid and off when start.

I will recheck all fuse positions when I go back in, I did see that someone on here put F27 engine fuse in wrong place, but I can't see how this can happen if you count from left to right

Its back on charge and I have all the relays to test.