The mileage displays for a brief seconds and then goes to dashes and then ABS and Park Brake fault. The EDB code is P01637 and the engine light is on.

I also revved it to 4500 revs when it was running, it normally does no more than 3000, it has probably had a heart failure

 

The rev thing is one indication that your car got a jolt and things are burned out...

But the above quote seals it for me.. A while back my 1985 Dodge's digital cluster stopped showing speed.. I would drive it and nothing..It would just show 0. So, found out, that the speed sending units are known to go out on them so I got one and proceded to jump under the car and change it out...

Ooops.. After I was done, the speedo worked just fine BUT the odometer displayed dashes...

What could have gone wrong? I just unplugged the sending unit then plugged the new one in... Ooops, I left the battery connected and it sent a jolt to the cluster and burned a circuit out....This stuff is really sensitive to shorts.. The fact that it ran after the jump is a good sign.. But damage may have been done.. Some damage that may take a little time to show.

 

JOsworth >> The rev thing is one indication that your car got a jolt and things are burned out...

Even though it was my own foot revving the car? someone posted that they had to rev (gun) the car to release the EPB.

Basically guys this car, S Type 2.5L as you well know is not worth spending too much money on. Its value is currently peanuts compaired to when I purchased it, only a few thousand probably, if it was working and someone was stupid enough to buy it. So whats the point in paying anymore out if as you say things are so bad. I have already wasted money on a battery that does not work and years of services that have not helped the life of the car.

 

well the odometer showing dashes can also be because the communication to the other modules has been interupted aka CANBUS COMM. FAILURE.

Check more fuses if you got it to run, the PCM is functional, thats good, still have body control module that might not be getting power, transmition control module. and other assorted modules.

 

1).. The computer prevents the car from revving over 3,000 RPM in neutral or park.. My car does it, so does the wife's mini van..If you were able to rev it that high, something is not regulating what it should..

2) If it's that bad of a car, scrap it, take the loss and move on...

3) I'm sorry the car has you PO'd. But, bashing the brand on an enthusiast site is not a good way to get help.

4) You missed the point of my post...so let me simplify...

IF THE CAR GOT A JOLT DURING A JUMP YOU PROBABLY NEED TO GET ALL THE MODULES CHECKED BY A JAGUAR AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER..

 

Thank you Mafioso for all your help. I managed to start the car 15 minutes ago. I had to swap 2 of the relays and do some other things but it cranked first time, ABS fault and Park Brake fault are still active.

J gate working though, I have manually taken off the EPB and have driven the car. ABS is not working correctly, but it will get me to the garage several hundred KM away.

Thanks for all your help, you have been great.

 

[quote=JOsworth;260767]1).. The computer prevents the car from revving over 3,000 RPM in neutral or park.. My car does it, so does the wife's mini van..If you were able to rev it that high, something is not regulating what it should..

You misread again, it normally doesn't rev above 3000rpm because I don't drive very fast, not because it is limited? My car is not a diesel.

 

We can all sleep tonight! HALLELUIAH! BTW you still needed the new battery.


Mafioso just sending you kudos, you must be da' man.

 

[quote=Tania1;260785]No I didn't... You stated that you rev'd it up over 4,000 rpm. I said, it should not do that while in neutral or park... (see, it is right there above)..

Well, mute point since it is running.

Based on your posts, I would highly reccomend that you sell it FAST...

 

heh heh REALLY FAST!!!!!!

 

Rick Cheers thanks for the E-beer!

 

The garage just bought back the old battery and they said it is 100% OK, please take this into consideration before prompting/bullying other posters into buying uneeded replacements. It may be better to advise them to have the battery tested first.

 

...no friggin' good deed goes unpunished - best served with french fries, mayonaise and a mediocre claret

 

[quote=JOsworth;260831]I find that I must apologize for the above statement. I was flat wrong about a rev limiter on my 3.0. Yesterday when I got in to go home, I was able to rev it to 5k while in park... I swear it didn't do that before, but like most of us amateurs, I can be wrong and for that I am truly sorry....

Now, about the battery, I still say a bad battery was the root of your problem. Remember that early on a user (jagV8) warned you that testing procedures could produce false results. This has been shown to be the case over and over again with many users that have had electrical gremlins. There are other issues that can cause battery drain as well. But, as far as I'm concerned, you seem to hate the car / brand and I happen to be an enthusiast of the brand....So, why bother...

 

Tania1, are you familiar with a hydrometer to test battery cells? If its not a sealed you can check each cells chemistry this is a real good way to check the batteries condition

 

I'm relieved it finally started, but:
Not a good idea to do it with the key in the ignition, because the mdoules are powered up (you can normally hear evidence of that every time you put the key in the ignition). Better to take the key out before disconnecting the battery.

 

Or, you could consider that we're not actually standing there next to you seeing things with our own eyes. The people trying to help you are entirely reliant on what you say and how you say it for troubleshooting ideas.

This particular issue is complicated enough to probably be a 'one off' and a 'never seen that before' for most if not all members. To come back and lecture people that they didn't get it right is pretty rude.

Your general attitude seems to be PO'd at the world in general, but Jaguar and the people here specifically. If you're not satisfied with the free advice you've been given, I suggest you ask for your money back.

 

If you had a flat battery and the 'jumper' leads were att. with reverse polarity, even for a few milliseconds, it's possible your +12volt rail went negative and something somewhere was at least partially damaged. The blown fuses point to this. The fact the engine started is lucky, but I for one would hesitate to even guess the extent of what's happened, being mindful of all the electronics in these cars. And for that matter most very modern cars. I think you need a good, up to date auto-electrician with Jaguar knowlege. Just about everything you can think of is electronically controlled nowadays (i.e. you demand a microprocessor to perform a function). You may have to get it to a suitable garage.
One thing -- be sure to tell the electrician exactly what's happened, inc. the blown fuses. This will help him to trace malfunctions. Sorry to be brutally realistic, but that's what can happen with a reverse polarity incident.
Leedsman.

 

So how is the car now?

 

Tania, your first post led all to believe it was a weak/bad battery. Even with my meager knowledge, it was clear to me when I (along with the more knowledgeable people) so stated.
The good samaritan is the one who messed it all up as Leedsman stated.
Please don't think we were bullying you into buying a new one when it was obvious from the start that that was the problem.
I still have doubts that the original battery was/is any good even though the mechanic said it was. As previously ststed, a hygrometer would the best way to determine the condition of that battery. I'd bet that you would find one or more cells weak/bad.
You stated several times that the battery was "flat" and in these cars, a "flat" battery won't do it. It was time to change it out which is what you did.