S-Type Heat issues
#1
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2000 S-Type 3.0 6
Getting no heat - I have searched this forum and see lots of discussion about DCCV - but I don't think that is my problem.
In the front of the engine bay there are three hoses connected to what appears to be a metal (alloy?) valve assembly, this is a T and appears to be in two halves bolted together - the top two hoses go into one side of the assembly, the bottom hose, the other side - then connects to a plastic piece (Is that plastic assembly the DCCV?) that in turn connects to two smaller hoses that go the heater?
What appears to be the issue is the valve? assembly described above - both upper hoses are hot, the lower hose is cold, as are the ones coming out of the plastic connector.
What is that "valve?" assembly called and what would the replacement part be?
Thanks
Getting no heat - I have searched this forum and see lots of discussion about DCCV - but I don't think that is my problem.
In the front of the engine bay there are three hoses connected to what appears to be a metal (alloy?) valve assembly, this is a T and appears to be in two halves bolted together - the top two hoses go into one side of the assembly, the bottom hose, the other side - then connects to a plastic piece (Is that plastic assembly the DCCV?) that in turn connects to two smaller hoses that go the heater?
What appears to be the issue is the valve? assembly described above - both upper hoses are hot, the lower hose is cold, as are the ones coming out of the plastic connector.
What is that "valve?" assembly called and what would the replacement part be?
Thanks
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#5
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I think this is what you are looking for. http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairAC2000SType.htm This information will help you with the problems related to the Dual Climate Control Valve (DCCV) and assist you in troubleshooting. This link will get you to the onelines related to your car http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairElectrical.htm I hope this helps.
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#13
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Seems quite a common fault with S types, I am currently suffering with roasting passenger side temperatures no matter what setting I use. I understand that the valve defaults to open when failed or more correctly when it has no power supplied to it. so my one sided roaster is probably due to failed solenoid coil or wiring fault. I have been advised to check the wiring loom and connectors leading to the valve (DCCV) as there are known issues with the front loom. Failing no fault found here - then it could be down to a faulty control module as it has been known that when a solenoid fails it can take out the output transistor on the control unit, this again is a common fault with the control modules and is easily diagnosed and repaired by a reasonably competent electrician - the part is also available. There is some useful information here =
http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
Hope this is some help
http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
Hope this is some help
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#14
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Kapitan1975:
Yes. You need the 3 hose version. I live in the Houston area and have a 2005 STR too. I changed it myself and it was starting to seep coolant but everything was still working fine. I used that opportunity to flush and change my coolant. I should have changed the thermostat too but did not have one at the time. I do now and will keep it in case I need it.
You can get the 3 hose version from Rock Auto for about $94. Just search for YG378. That is the Motorcraft part number. The other things people have posted are more rare. Do the simple stuff first. The DCCV will fail it's just a matter of time. I wonder if the replacement parts will last any longer?? On the LS board they seem to. I changed the DCCV on my 2003 Lincoln LS about 25K miles ago and still no problems.
If you have the dealer fix it I would estimate the cost to be somewhere in the $600-$1000 range. Maybe Brutal can jump in here. I am taking a wild *** guess based on Jaguar high prices. I was unaware of the Ford part and paid almost $300 for the same part in a Jaguar box!!!
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Yes. You need the 3 hose version. I live in the Houston area and have a 2005 STR too. I changed it myself and it was starting to seep coolant but everything was still working fine. I used that opportunity to flush and change my coolant. I should have changed the thermostat too but did not have one at the time. I do now and will keep it in case I need it.
You can get the 3 hose version from Rock Auto for about $94. Just search for YG378. That is the Motorcraft part number. The other things people have posted are more rare. Do the simple stuff first. The DCCV will fail it's just a matter of time. I wonder if the replacement parts will last any longer?? On the LS board they seem to. I changed the DCCV on my 2003 Lincoln LS about 25K miles ago and still no problems.
If you have the dealer fix it I would estimate the cost to be somewhere in the $600-$1000 range. Maybe Brutal can jump in here. I am taking a wild *** guess based on Jaguar high prices. I was unaware of the Ford part and paid almost $300 for the same part in a Jaguar box!!!
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Kapitan1975 (12-23-2010)
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JagV8 is right but I found it a bit tough to install. I drained the coolant so it would not go all over the place. Yes it has an electrical plug and the hoses and clamps are a pain.
I have attached a picture of the special tool I used on the clamps. It's called a cable clamp pliers. Without it I could not get to the clamps with my normal pliers and had several that I could not replace the clamp after I got it off. They are a bit pricey at around $40.
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I have attached a picture of the special tool I used on the clamps. It's called a cable clamp pliers. Without it I could not get to the clamps with my normal pliers and had several that I could not replace the clamp after I got it off. They are a bit pricey at around $40.
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#20
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I have a 2001 s-type 3.0 it just started having a climate control problem. All heat all the time no cool air either side (both sides hot air). By reading the threads it sounds like a DCCV problem. I searched for the valve online and it appears that my s-type has the 5 hose DCCV and it cost about $214.00 dollars. Does this seem about right or could the problem be else where? Also before the heat problem there was an odor that seem to be burnt electrical