S Type Heater Flush
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If the heater is not operational, the likely causes are low coolant level in the system with air pockets; a leaking or non-operating DCCV or an electrical fault in the control unit.
While flushing the heater core is certainly a good idea, it may or may not result in the heater becoming operational. Given the age of the vehicle, it more than likely is a faulty DCCV, which can leak either internally or externally, or simply stop functioning. The JTIS Workshop Manual outlines the procedure for replacing the DCCV and is a no-cost download on this forum.
While flushing the heater core is certainly a good idea, it may or may not result in the heater becoming operational. Given the age of the vehicle, it more than likely is a faulty DCCV, which can leak either internally or externally, or simply stop functioning. The JTIS Workshop Manual outlines the procedure for replacing the DCCV and is a no-cost download on this forum.
#9
If flushing the heater core be sure and flush it both ways and from all angles. So plan on blasting water into all three hoses one at a time. I like to block one side and then the other when flushing. Blast water into one port and after it starts coming out the other two lines. Use your finger and plug one hose and then the other. This gives a stronger flush action.
I also was fighting a no heat problem. Changed the AUX coolant pump and made sure the coolant was full but still no heat.
Brutal recommended the flush and I did it even though I regularly change coolant. That finally got the heat working. I looked real hard and even collected the flushed water and did not see any junk. But it worked so something must have been blocked?
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I also was fighting a no heat problem. Changed the AUX coolant pump and made sure the coolant was full but still no heat.
Brutal recommended the flush and I did it even though I regularly change coolant. That finally got the heat working. I looked real hard and even collected the flushed water and did not see any junk. But it worked so something must have been blocked?
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#10
Time out for a second. The temperature of the hoses will be dependant on what the heater controls are set to and whether the system is trying to heat or cool the car. If one of the two thinner pipes is hot and the other cold then there is most likely a problem with the ac control panel, the dccv or the associated wiring. Generally speaking in a working system the two pipes should be much the same temperature. The way the system works is that there are 2 seperate heater matrices, each one is fed by one of those thinner pipes - one for the passenger side, the other for the driver side. The flow of hot water is controlled by the dccv (dual circuit control Valve) which is turned on and off by the ac control box. The dccv has two valves, each controlled by an active low signal from the ac controller. The valves can stick either open or closed on one side or both, the wiring can fail (this happened on my car) and the controllers can burn out - just pcb tracks usually. It seems to me that it is far more likely that your ac woes relate to this than to an air lock or similar, unless of course you have drained the coolant recently.
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KarimPA
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