Anyone have a pdf or a description of the proper places to lift an S-Type? I usually use my brother's lift, but it's tied up this weekend.

My main question is can you jack it up using a floor jack on the rear diff to get it on stands? Or is that a no no?

Thanks in advance,

George

 

It really depends on what you are gonna do. I have jacked up a car plenty of times with the rear diff I just watch it like a hawk if anything doesnt look right I drop it right back down. If you are going to do something with the diff just make sure you put the jackstands where your rear end will drop down and fully extend the suspension cause it makes it easier. If you are doing it for the sake of just throw it up on jackstands and then pulling the jack out you should be good. Just make sure you go from the sides to place your jack stands so you dont risk having it drop on you.
Also jack it from the back so you are centered and not from the side that way you have good balance of the rear on the jack.
I have had some request to make a video of this so maybe if I have some time tomorrow I'll film that and put it up in my channel.

 

Sounds like you know you're not supposed to use the diff. You're supposed to use the kinda triangular patches of metal just ahead of each rear wheel arch (typing this from memory). There's a picture in JTIS. Feel and look, they're pretty obviously the only load-bearing things there.

 

Thanks! I didn't realize that was there until you mentioned it:

It also specifically states you shouldn't lift from the rear diff.

I'll post the pic for future reference, but this begs the next question. Where do you lift from so you can place a stand in THAT location???



Take care,

George

 

George,

I went though this last fall and one of those rear lift points in the diagram was not available as described on my car. There was plastic ductwork in that location.

I'm skeptical about the rear diff warning but I haven't tried it as yet. Maybe they're concerned that someone will catch the aluminum cover instead of the cast iron housing?

I ended up using the front inboard lift spots on the diagram for jack stands. Then I used a pair of floor jacks and a set of custom cut hockey pucks to interface with the body seam lift points. That worked flawlessly. One puck cut to fit the lift point and a second puck under it as a lift clearance spacer.

On the front there was plenty of room to lift and get the jacks in place.
On the rear one side works as advertised but on my car I had to lift the car by the rear suspension on the other side.

I'm going to be attending an event where the Jag technical director from NJ is going to be replacing the plastic chain tensioners on a friends engine as part of a club function. Maybe I can ask him about the lifting by the diff issue.

I do that all the time on some of my other cars without issue.

 

I've posted this before: I can jack there and there's space for the axle stand at the same time. Not a lot of space, but enough. Bob's car is apparently different but I don't know why or whether it's a custom extra piece of plastic.

I find jacking at the front a little more awkward as the "rails" you jack on are closer to the center of the car than I'm used to.

 

Yes. Remove the plastic cover over the jacking point. The cover is there to protect a large electrical cable. So watch out you don't crush that. It's only one bolt and then some tabs holding the cover on. I also found enough room to jack up the car and place a jack stand using that spot.

The Lincoln LS is also not suppose to be lifted from the rear pumpkin. I guess it's because of the complicated rear IRS. All the solid rear axle cars I have worked on were always lifted from the pumpkin with no problems. So far I have followed the factories suggestion so am not sure if it will hurt anything or just a precaution??
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Here's what I ended up using so that my floor jacks didn't damage the factory lift (not jack stand locations) points. I started with 4 hockey pucks. I used one as a base spacer and then the top one cut as shown. 2 1/8" wide with a 3/8" wide by 3/4" deep slot cut in the top of the puck. It clears, supports and works just fine.

I had to bend the sheet metal on my car back to stock specifications because someone else had already bent the seams over.

 

Hey Bob,

That's a great idea. My front pinch welds are also crushed due to a previous owners incompetence with a lift.

Would there be any way you'd be willing to make a set of those for me? I Don't have a table saw... Let me know.

Take care,

George