S-type lift points "How To"
#2
Great question. Hope the techs will chime in soon.
For anyone who may be interested, I bought a pair of Rhino Ramp 12000 drive-up ramps from Advanced Auto Parts this past Sunday. Cost me $49. Well worth it - took the ramps home, drove the S-Type up on them, and had enough clearance (and working room) underneath the front end to remove the plastic underbody panel for the first time. Took a good long look around before I bolted the panel back on and tried to familiarize myself with where all the components were. I was impressed by how clean the panel keeps the components. My oil pan looked brand new (but man, what a strange shape it has).
If you go with Rhino Ramps, be sure to get the 12000 model, not the 8000 model. The cheaper 8000 model is not wide enough to safely accommodate the tire width of the S-Type....
For anyone who may be interested, I bought a pair of Rhino Ramp 12000 drive-up ramps from Advanced Auto Parts this past Sunday. Cost me $49. Well worth it - took the ramps home, drove the S-Type up on them, and had enough clearance (and working room) underneath the front end to remove the plastic underbody panel for the first time. Took a good long look around before I bolted the panel back on and tried to familiarize myself with where all the components were. I was impressed by how clean the panel keeps the components. My oil pan looked brand new (but man, what a strange shape it has).
If you go with Rhino Ramps, be sure to get the 12000 model, not the 8000 model. The cheaper 8000 model is not wide enough to safely accommodate the tire width of the S-Type....
#3
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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The jacking points on the pinch molding aka jacking points in the owners manual. Do not use the underbody large rectangular area between the frame and pinch old in the front area if using a jack they will crush up if you put the weight of the car in this point. Yes i know this from experiance, its ok with a 4 point but not a single point jack, use the frame in front or the pinch mold
#4
I have always used the points that BRUTAL has suggested. With a unibody, its always hard to find a point to jack and a place to put the jackstands. I have used Sear's Lift and Secure which is an intergrated jack and jackstand. With it, the two points are always the same point. The jacking point, like the MR2, is made of sheet metal that is perpendicular to the ground. As a result, it will bend a bit when you put the jack/stands under this point. I have made 2 x 2" ish metal squares about 1" thick with a groove in it to prevent the metal from bending.
According the the JTIS manual, Jaguar provides 4 points for jacking and 4 points for the support. In the rear, in front of the rear tire there is a flat triangle piece of metal where the rear subframe carrier attaches to right next to the side molding. In the front, behind the front tires about 18" in, there is what looks like a metal frame rail next to the exhaust pipe. The "frame rail" and "triangle" are the suggested jacking and support points (they just show different dots in the same area for the two functions). They suggest pads between the jack and the frame and the picture shows a standard floor jack and stands. I have never to jack or support at these points but have put backup jackstands there just in case.
They also highly recommend against using the differential, suspension members, etc as jacking or support points.
According the the JTIS manual, Jaguar provides 4 points for jacking and 4 points for the support. In the rear, in front of the rear tire there is a flat triangle piece of metal where the rear subframe carrier attaches to right next to the side molding. In the front, behind the front tires about 18" in, there is what looks like a metal frame rail next to the exhaust pipe. The "frame rail" and "triangle" are the suggested jacking and support points (they just show different dots in the same area for the two functions). They suggest pads between the jack and the frame and the picture shows a standard floor jack and stands. I have never to jack or support at these points but have put backup jackstands there just in case.
They also highly recommend against using the differential, suspension members, etc as jacking or support points.
#5
Jacking Points
I am thick here, but for the life of me I cannot be sure of the correct jacking points. I have looked at the CD and saw the pictures and also saw the picture near the back of the manual. I think I have read just about every post on Jacking and lift points. But i still feel uncomfortable jacking the car up. I have used the Rhino ramps for changing the oil and oil filter and that works great. I want to change the fuel filter which calls for raising the left front tire. If I look at the bottom of the Jag, about 18 inches behind the front wheels, there is box indentation that looks like where the Jaguar jack goes (the one that I would use to change a tire), is this the Jacking point on the car. If so should I just put a block of wood in the top of the jack and raise it that way. If that indeed is the corect jacking spot, where would I put the stands in relation to the jacking point?
Thanks for taking the time for reading this and hopefully answering
Hal
1996 Red XJS convertible
2001 Red "S" Type 4.0
Thanks for taking the time for reading this and hopefully answering
Hal
1996 Red XJS convertible
2001 Red "S" Type 4.0
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Jack Kass (05-08-2017)
#6
The jacking point for the jack that comes with the car is near the door still. It will work but the metal that is perpendicular to the ground will likely bend. The point recommended by Jaguar is the rectangular metal (approx 1.5' x 4") near the exhaust pipe. Hope this photo helps.
The black jackstand is sear's lift and secure which jacks up the car and leaves the stand in place but this is where a regular floor jack can go, the orange would be the jack stand that supports the car. Unlike many other unibody cars, Jaguar acutally gives you a place to jack up the car and place jackstands at a secondary location.
The black jackstand is sear's lift and secure which jacks up the car and leaves the stand in place but this is where a regular floor jack can go, the orange would be the jack stand that supports the car. Unlike many other unibody cars, Jaguar acutally gives you a place to jack up the car and place jackstands at a secondary location.
The following 4 users liked this post by ccc:
#7
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#9
#10
Any pictures of the rear jackstand points
I'm adding on to this thread because it seems very concise but it would be grat if anyone could add some pictures of jackstands placed in the proper rear locations. The JTIS doesn't have a lot of detail in it's drawings or description. I'm going to try and see if I can locate the spot that CCC is talking about.
Bob S.
Bob S.
#11
#12
I'm adding on to this thread because it seems very concise but it would be grat if anyone could add some pictures of jackstands placed in the proper rear locations. The JTIS doesn't have a lot of detail in it's drawings or description. I'm going to try and see if I can locate the spot that CCC is talking about.
Bob S.
Bob S.
Isn't the best picture but hope it helps. May have to change the rear pads today so I'll try to take a better picture
#13
Thanks for the picture!
It helps but I can see that it's too close to the jacking point. I can't lift the car and put a jack stand in the same spot.
The jack from the trunk is pretty poor but until I can get a hocky puck or something like that which I can modify to fit the recessed lifting point and sit in my floor jack I can't lift this car at all.
I read the caution against lifting via the diff but ...
Is the diff body cast iron? You're not going to damage that. Or is the diff mount itself too weak. That WOULD surprise me.
Has anyone tried it? I do this on a couple of my cars and it works reallly well.
Bob S.
It helps but I can see that it's too close to the jacking point. I can't lift the car and put a jack stand in the same spot.
The jack from the trunk is pretty poor but until I can get a hocky puck or something like that which I can modify to fit the recessed lifting point and sit in my floor jack I can't lift this car at all.
I read the caution against lifting via the diff but ...
Is the diff body cast iron? You're not going to damage that. Or is the diff mount itself too weak. That WOULD surprise me.
Has anyone tried it? I do this on a couple of my cars and it works reallly well.
Bob S.
#14
Thanks for the picture!
It helps but I can see that it's too close to the jacking point. I can't lift the car and put a jack stand in the same spot.
The jack from the trunk is pretty poor but until I can get a hocky puck or something like that which I can modify to fit the recessed lifting point and sit in my floor jack I can't lift this car at all.
I read the caution against lifting via the diff but ...
Is the diff body cast iron? You're not going to damage that. Or is the diff mount itself too weak. That WOULD surprise me.
Has anyone tried it? I do this on a couple of my cars and it works reallly well.
Bob S.
It helps but I can see that it's too close to the jacking point. I can't lift the car and put a jack stand in the same spot.
The jack from the trunk is pretty poor but until I can get a hocky puck or something like that which I can modify to fit the recessed lifting point and sit in my floor jack I can't lift this car at all.
I read the caution against lifting via the diff but ...
Is the diff body cast iron? You're not going to damage that. Or is the diff mount itself too weak. That WOULD surprise me.
Has anyone tried it? I do this on a couple of my cars and it works reallly well.
Bob S.
If you have the trunk jack, use the point on the rail, its designed not to deform the metal and you can place your jack stands in the triangle area.
I would not recommend using the rear diff on an indep. rear suspension car.
#15
Hockey Pucks!
So I found some hockey pucks in late August no less!
I'm going to try and modify one of them to fit nicely over that seam/rail and then I can lift the car and not worry. It depends on if my $99 Table saw can be safely used to cut a groove and then trim the top of the puck to size so that it fits in the recess they provided.
I will take a look to try and figure out where you have that jack placed too. If you haven't been under the car before it's still something of a mystery.
Thanks again.
BTW, the two cars I lift are IS as well. If the housing is strong and the mount is good it's just fine as long as you stay away from the aluminum cover. I'll take a look at that as well.
Bob S.
I'm going to try and modify one of them to fit nicely over that seam/rail and then I can lift the car and not worry. It depends on if my $99 Table saw can be safely used to cut a groove and then trim the top of the puck to size so that it fits in the recess they provided.
I will take a look to try and figure out where you have that jack placed too. If you haven't been under the car before it's still something of a mystery.
Thanks again.
BTW, the two cars I lift are IS as well. If the housing is strong and the mount is good it's just fine as long as you stay away from the aluminum cover. I'll take a look at that as well.
Bob S.
#16
The left side rear looks something like that on my car but the the right side has no place to put a jack at all. It's all plastic panels under there.
As you noted as a potential issue, someone has had a go at lifting the car from these points without any special fixture so the metal was bent over on two of them.
It's loads of fun trying to straighten these out with the car on the ground ...
So I've started making some prototype lifting pieces out of cedar but the surfaces are not flat. Lot's of bumps ridges and uneven stuff.
This is going to take a while.
So now that I'm looking under the car as best I can with only 6 inches of clearance I notice in the front that there's a 1/2 -3/4" thick double sided heat shield at the rear of the engine that's drooping down with about 4" of clearance to the ground. It doesn't look well supported. I can move it up and down a bit. It's not what I would consider a normal belly pan. This doesn't seem right. It also means that my car really only has 4" of ground clearance so I must be scraping this thing over every speed bump I see.
Is this normal?
Bob S.
As you noted as a potential issue, someone has had a go at lifting the car from these points without any special fixture so the metal was bent over on two of them.
It's loads of fun trying to straighten these out with the car on the ground ...
So I've started making some prototype lifting pieces out of cedar but the surfaces are not flat. Lot's of bumps ridges and uneven stuff.
This is going to take a while.
So now that I'm looking under the car as best I can with only 6 inches of clearance I notice in the front that there's a 1/2 -3/4" thick double sided heat shield at the rear of the engine that's drooping down with about 4" of clearance to the ground. It doesn't look well supported. I can move it up and down a bit. It's not what I would consider a normal belly pan. This doesn't seem right. It also means that my car really only has 4" of ground clearance so I must be scraping this thing over every speed bump I see.
Is this normal?
Bob S.
Last edited by Staatsof; 08-29-2010 at 04:45 AM.
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