S Type Misfire and hesitation issues
#21
not sure if there would be enough space to fit a duplex chain but this firm may be able to help you.
THE JAGUAR AJ-V8 ENGINE / AJ6 Engineering
THE JAGUAR AJ-V8 ENGINE / AJ6 Engineering
I will contact these people and see what they have.
I have a thought that the late model Lincolns all had dual row timing chains, not sure .
The dual row chain is an issue with some Motor Cycle engines, the single row chains can produce a resonance which lead to excessive slapping. Ducati tried single row chains when the "bevel drive " became too expensive to produce that is why they have gone to belts.
Always look for the cause, not the result!
#22
#23
The plastic also seems to begin to fail where there is a raised section of the plastic barrel.
(This raised section also causes a weakness in plastic molding integrity) What causes this? I think as that single row chain "flaps" which causes the tensioner shoe to move back and forward in the barrel trying to stop the "flap"which overtime will cause the barrel to split exactly where it does. Now you can put a solid block of steel/ aluminum whatever but the resonance will still be there., so are you going to put another rubbing shoe on the tensioner? ( probably) But the single row chain is still going to "flap".
Maybe a much larger contact surface on the chain tensioner?
The real fix is an idler chain wheel which can be held in tension by spring pressure and oil pressure as it is in conventional chain drive twin cam systems.
Just my six penneth!
#24
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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A further installment on my issue.
I have arrived home some further 550klms, no more issues, I read the owners manual which tells me I can run it on 95 Unleaded with ethanol at 10% which I did . Then got to desperation stage with no 95 Unleaded available so had to put 15 litres of 91 Octane to get me to a 95 octane station. Rather than just fill up with 95 octane decided to fill up with straight 98 octane no ethanol! 100ks down the road hesitation has gone no more lights flashing totally smooth , can push the accelerator to the floor no hesitation just goes. I have kept putting 20 litres of 98 Octane in it, to ensure I was going to get through all the unleaded ethanol mix. The only thing I did notice was from time to time a very faint smell ,which I think may have been the Catalytic converter burning of the ethanol.
I have arrived home some further 550klms, no more issues, I read the owners manual which tells me I can run it on 95 Unleaded with ethanol at 10% which I did . Then got to desperation stage with no 95 Unleaded available so had to put 15 litres of 91 Octane to get me to a 95 octane station. Rather than just fill up with 95 octane decided to fill up with straight 98 octane no ethanol! 100ks down the road hesitation has gone no more lights flashing totally smooth , can push the accelerator to the floor no hesitation just goes. I have kept putting 20 litres of 98 Octane in it, to ensure I was going to get through all the unleaded ethanol mix. The only thing I did notice was from time to time a very faint smell ,which I think may have been the Catalytic converter burning of the ethanol.
I can find no reference to a 'correction tube' in any Jag service bulletin, nor have I ever heard of one. Got a link?
#25
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...5/#post1688169
#26
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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Maybe not the octane rating or ethanol content, but perhaps some other element of fuel quality is at play. Read my experience with fuel quality here, specifically the update in post #9. I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't experienced it first hand:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...5/#post1688169
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...5/#post1688169
The only potential difference is with the additives that are injected in the tanker truck while filling for delivery. It can be argued ad-nauseam that brand A is better than brand B, but even if true it takes thousands of miles for any such differences to appear.
AAA did an extensive study on this, it's worth reading through.
#27
Here are the links.
https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...eliefValve.htm
#28
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Sorry for confusion Jaguar call it something else , but my description makes sense to an old bloke.
Here are the links.
https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...eliefValve.htm
Here are the links.
https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...eliefValve.htm
Gus is a very well known and respected member here.
#29
Sorry about that , I will find the link .
It says the tube is a low speed air bleed of some sort which if the car is only used for short trips has a history of clogging up , It state that you get a 1/32 " dill in a pin Chuck ( stresses it must be in a pin Chuck and you gently twist the drill through through the pastic housing which I gather is in the Cam Cover { as they stress if you dont use a pin chuck the drill will drop straight through to the cams and may even drop right down through the engine to the sump}.
Maybe this gives you enough information to identify what they are talking about.
I will find the link if I can.
It says the tube is a low speed air bleed of some sort which if the car is only used for short trips has a history of clogging up , It state that you get a 1/32 " dill in a pin Chuck ( stresses it must be in a pin Chuck and you gently twist the drill through through the pastic housing which I gather is in the Cam Cover { as they stress if you dont use a pin chuck the drill will drop straight through to the cams and may even drop right down through the engine to the sump}.
Maybe this gives you enough information to identify what they are talking about.
I will find the link if I can.
#30
Join Date: Oct 2009
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#32
I have spent some time looking for the service bulletin, without result.
The service bulletin describes exactly what is happening.
I have ordered my Elm 327 , but have never used one before. That could be an issue. I really like having a carburetor and distributor, I am told I need to catch up.
#33
On another note I had an Email from the previous owner of the car, he said that the trip I did home was the longest trip the car has done in the 14 years he has owned it. The car had only been used to do a 60K run down to his holiday home other than that just around Adelaide. So maybe the Catalytic Converter , may have just needed a good blow out it certainly didnt smell too good, if that was what the smell was.
If the converter is now cleaned out and there is no smell how do I tell if it is US? Or will a sensor just keep giving me a message?
Any suggestions?
If the converter is now cleaned out and there is no smell how do I tell if it is US? Or will a sensor just keep giving me a message?
Any suggestions?
#34
I am not sure what you have going on and at this point I would not guess but for your information this is a link to the Part Load Breather Blockage.
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...20Breather.pdf
I would like to see the OBDII codes to see what exactly is going on with the car. Please take the time to read the codes and then post the codes and not what they tell you what they mean and we will try to help.
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...20Breather.pdf
I would like to see the OBDII codes to see what exactly is going on with the car. Please take the time to read the codes and then post the codes and not what they tell you what they mean and we will try to help.
#35
I am not sure what you have going on and at this point I would not guess but for your information this is a link to the Part Load Breather Blockage.
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...20Breather.pdf
I would like to see the OBDII codes to see what exactly is going on with the car. Please take the time to read the codes and then post the codes and not what they tell you what they mean and we will try to help.
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...20Breather.pdf
I would like to see the OBDII codes to see what exactly is going on with the car. Please take the time to read the codes and then post the codes and not what they tell you what they mean and we will try to help.
Thanks.
#36
This sounds like what I am trying to describe. It activates when the throttle is just " Cracked" , it will cause a what feels like a cylinder not firing.
I have spent some time looking for the service bulletin, without result.
The service bulletin describes exactly what is happening.
I have ordered my Elm 327 , but have never used one before. That could be an issue. I really like having a carburetor and distributor, I am told I need to catch up.
I have spent some time looking for the service bulletin, without result.
The service bulletin describes exactly what is happening.
I have ordered my Elm 327 , but have never used one before. That could be an issue. I really like having a carburetor and distributor, I am told I need to catch up.
The elm is very easy to use. So don't worry. If you bought one that can be used with a laptop I would use this program as it is very easy to use.
https://mm.1und1.de/dereferrer?target=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5vdXRpbHNvYmRmYWNp bGUuY29tL3NvZnR3YXJlLWVvYmQtZmFjaWxlLWVsbTMyNy5waH A%3D.
This a link to a free trial version.
To get the most out of this device you can go to YouTube and look for free videos from somebody like scannerdanner he will show how to use it diagnose things like air leaks etc
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