Hello,
I have a 2003 S-Type with a 3.0l engine, VIN M91324, which no longer works. The vehicle is otherwise in top condition with only 100,000km. But he doesn't want to do anything anymore. What happened ? After purchasing it was discovered that the transmission control unit was not responsive (via WDS). It ran and shifted cleanly and correctly. I did the pin point test > everything was OK.
1000km later, when reading out, it was discovered that the engine control unit was also suddenly unresponsive. When overwriting (via WDS) it brought a temperature error (sensor > 80 degrees) and stopped. Then I got a suitable used ECU and tried to describe it. It does not work. ECU is not responsive. And now nothing comes apart from lots of error messages.
The starter doesn't do anything anymore either. Behavior at the moment: When you connect the battery, the alarm system goes off immediately. If you put the key in the lock and turn on the ignition, the alarm system switches off and all kinds of error messages such as ABS, transmission errors, etc. appear.
Are there any ideas about that? Is the starter stuck to the immobilizer? I can't put the transmission in neutral, the vehicle won't move. Is there a trick? Who can help me ?
Greetings, Willi

Sorry for my bad English. I have my text translated using a translator. I'm from Germany but this forum has so much knowledge. Respect and thank you

 

This may seem like a lame suggestion, but is your battery fully charged?

 

Hello Willi,

Welcome to the forum. Don't worry about your English. It is fine, and much better than some native speakers.

Sorry to hear about the trouble with your car. I can't remember all the details, but the security system may enter a theft protection mode if certain modules are swapped from one vehicle to another. When originally installed, those modules receive VIN-specific programming. If swapped, and that programming no longer matches the other modules, the system locks itself down.

Hopefully somebody more knowledgeable will chime in. I think it was different with early and late models, so this may not be fully applicable to your situation.

 

Hello,
the battery is full and as good as new. I am aware that an identical ECM must be described precisely because of the VIN. I've tried to read so far that the VIN has to be the same as in the speedometer and gearbox? Otherwise the immobilizer is active.
I tried to re-describe the replacement ECM (with WDS and 25Ah charger with maintenance mode on the battery to describe). And that's probably where the problem arose that I don't know how to solve. The ECM could only be partially described (he did something) and then finally reported that he could not address the ECM. I read (too late?) that as long as the transmission control unit doesn't report, for example, it doesn't work. If I read it correctly, all other control units that have saved the VIN must be OK, because the ECU wants to read the VIN of the other control units before writing. Unfortunately, replacing the ECU didn't help.
I have no idea what to do next.

 

Hello,
Does no one have an idea or solution?
Greetings, Willi

 

The PCM (ECM) is very robust so it is best not to change it. Also best not to reprogram it.

So, almost no-one has ever done what you did. Maybe someone will post but maybe not.

 

You cannot just throw modules at cars with a VID block.
You need to save the original VID block in case it becomes corrupted.

A complicated mess is how I describe trying to configure or repair these networks.

Lots of posts about trying to swap modules.

Info we got years ago at the dealer.

 

I may have miss understood? But I sure hope your not using WDS/SDD with a battery charger and NOT the proper DC power supply?
This has and will cause all kinds of problems. Make sure you have a low ripple DC power supply as recommended by Jaguar.

This is mandatory even though people have gotten by with less it's a HUGE risk with SDD!
Especially if replacing modules and doubly dangerous if trying to replace an ECM.
Attached is what Jaguar published about DC power supplies.
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Hello Clubairth1,
no, it is not a normal battery charger. It is the CTEk Pro25S. This delivers 25A in maintenance mode and was purchased specifically for this purpose (back then for my XK8 BJ 98, which I no longer have). The battery is also almost new.
@Motorcarman, Thanks for your input, I'll have to translate and read it at my leisure. I already know that I messed up and I'm still hoping for help.
I had already tested restoring the ECM via WDS (PDF from Techlines). Next I will check the CANBUS first. But exactly in this PDF from Techlines it says that all other relevant control devices must first be OK. Unfortunately my transmission control unit doesn't respond. I did the pin-point test and everything was OK, although not responsive.
Greetings, Willi

 

OK good luck. I see no ripple measurement of that battery maintainer?
A clean DC power source is the foundation of successfully using SDD.
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Hello,
Yesterday I measured the OBD connection with a friend. Among other things, there is no vehicle mass and various values were not available in the pin point test. Then I took a closer look at the wiring harness to the ECU and was shocked. There was someone there once. Although it looks professional, it was probably done a long time ago and you can see a lot of corrosion. It is now clear why more and more errors occur. I had moved the cable harness several times. Now I have some work to do - re-solder all the connections.
In some cases the cable was not only reconnected, but a second cable was also connected. Does anyone have an idea as to whether this can be correct?
2 Cable harnesses go down from the cable harness towards the fender - underbody. Where are they going? It would be much easier to work if these cable harnesses were gone.
Greetings, Willi

 

The Electrical Guide says & shows a lot about what goes where, what splices, connectors etc there are.

 

Hello,
Sure, the circuit diagrams reveal a lot. To do this you have to be able to read them, which I can't really do. In addition, the S-Type is located directly against the right-hand garage wall, so that you can't get to the car from the right side (e.g. you can't get into the right wheel arch to look). The passenger side footwell is only accessible via the left door. If someone can tell me where the other cables go that would help a lot. You can get to the wiring harness to redo the wiring, but my spine won't be happy.
Greetings, Willi

 

Can't help but I will point out those repairs look to be done very well?
I see adhesive squeezed out of the heat shrink tubing so apparently water proof?

But it does raise the question of exactly what went wrong to require such a massive wiring repair?
Looking closer I "think" they did that to add all those small diameter green wires? What do they got to? Perhaps something aftermarket was installed?
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Is the car immobile in this position? Can you push and relocate it to give you more room on that side?

If the shift lever is stuck in P, here's a good video showing how to override the interlock:

 

[QUOTE=clubairth1;2735980
But it does raise the question of exactly what went wrong to require such a massive wiring repair?
Looking closer I "think" they did that to add all those small diameter green wires? What do they got to? Perhaps something aftermarket was installed?
..[/QUOTE]

That's exactly what I'm wondering too. Why were so many lines reconnected? And why are there additional lines? I have not installed (found) any additional device in the vehicle. I still have to take a closer look at where the additional cables go. At first glance it wasn't obvious that the cables went anywhere other than to the plug.
@Karl, thanks for the link, I'll test it.

Greetings, Willi

 

Post back if you find out?
Sure looks like it was all done on purpose we just need to find out why?
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Of course I will report. I just hope that these connections caused the problems. But it stands to reason that every time the control units were reconnected, the errors increased, even though WDS didn't write anything. At the beginning I only disconnected the plug connection to the ECU, didn't unplug it and there were already more errors. And the connection to the ECU was perfect.

Greetings, Willi