S type r burning oil
#1
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I have an 03 STR and I have an issue with oil burning, i have no leaks underneath..bone dry---I currently use Mobil 1 10w 40 (synthetic) and the engine seems to burn a fair amount of oil...2-4 quarts between oil changes. I know its normal but the last time I went 4,000 miles and 4 quarts burned away..I know the say thats normal for superchargerged engines but should I use a different viscosity to offset extreme oil consumption---she has abt 100,000 on the clock--Is there something else I should be looking at.
#2
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I have an 03 str with 78k atm. Run 5w-30 synthetic of the pennzoil platinum verity at the moment and burn about 1/2q between 5k change intervals. I had burning issue develop almost over night and it turned out to be valve caver gaskets and spark plug seals. My spark plugs were soaking in oil especially on the driver side of engine, surprisingly the coils did not short or cause any miss fires.
#3
#5
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Have a 2003 STR with 80k miles on the clock and uses about 2 litres of Castrol magnatec 5w-30 between 10k service...........not sure what you mean by Quarts (quarter of a gallon??) British huh!! lol..... but thought this was a bit much on the usage front??
Have noticed a tiny puff of blue smoke on start up though![Icon Doh](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_doh.gif)
just hoping its not the Valve stem seals!!! no smoke on run or full boost though
Have noticed a tiny puff of blue smoke on start up though
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#10
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Same here. As I posted in a previous thread if get on it hard it will smoke a little the next time I start it up but only if it sits for several hours. It's a whitish gray smoke. A little over 70000 on mine? My Mechanic says it may be unburned fuel but Oil level does go down between changes, and I do changes about every 4000 mi.
#11
#12
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Leave 10-40 motor oil alone. It used to be way over rated. Many places don't even sell it anymore. The viscosity spread is too great, and it is just a cheap consumer oil. Million dollar industrial engines use 15W-40 diesel grade. There's a reason for that. The additive package is much more stable and less likely to burn off. The cheapest 15-40 out there will in many cases out perform many high end syn blends and so called 100% syn. Diesels aren't cheap and need the best oils. The oil makers are liable for oil related damages too. This is what I use in my mowers, edgers, tractor, wifes Cougar, custom built 406 Chevy with 500 hp, twin cam Harley, and the Jag. Bought the Cougar 3 years ago. It used a quart a week. Started using the 15-40 in it and have not had to add oil since. Change the oil once a year if it needs it or not usually at the onset of winter time. Have not had an oil related failure using diesel motor oil in gasoline engines for 20 years now. I have used, Rotella, Mobil unsynthetic, and mostly Royal Purple now since the last 5 years. One oil for everything I own. Saving a ton of money. It's guaranteed to mix with anybodys oil in writing and they mean it. Read the API label circle on the containers. CC,CD, CF etc is for compression engines. SE, SF, SG etc means for spark engines. You see a C series and an S series in that API circle, it means either or. Don't let anybody tell you different.
Older higher mileage engines with wear, need higher film strength to help cool, clean, seal, & lubricate properly.
Older higher mileage engines with wear, need higher film strength to help cool, clean, seal, & lubricate properly.
#13
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Here is my update.
I previously changed the oil about 6 months ago. I used 7qt mobil 1 5w30 and a fram toughgard filter.
5000 miles later, I added 1qt of the same oil.
At ~7300 miles I did another change, and drained slightly over 5qt of oil.
My '03 STR burned 3qt of full synthetic oil in 7300 miles. The car now has ~30k miles on it.
I previously changed the oil about 6 months ago. I used 7qt mobil 1 5w30 and a fram toughgard filter.
5000 miles later, I added 1qt of the same oil.
At ~7300 miles I did another change, and drained slightly over 5qt of oil.
My '03 STR burned 3qt of full synthetic oil in 7300 miles. The car now has ~30k miles on it.
#14
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#20
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Leave 10-40 motor oil alone. It used to be way over rated. Many places don't even sell it anymore. The viscosity spread is too great, and it is just a cheap consumer oil. Million dollar industrial engines use 15W-40 diesel grade. There's a reason for that. The additive package is much more stable and less likely to burn off. The cheapest 15-40 out there will in many cases out perform many high end syn blends and so called 100% syn. Diesels aren't cheap and need the best oils. The oil makers are liable for oil related damages too. This is what I use in my mowers, edgers, tractor, wifes Cougar, custom built 406 Chevy with 500 hp, twin cam Harley, and the Jag. Bought the Cougar 3 years ago. It used a quart a week. Started using the 15-40 in it and have not had to add oil since. Change the oil once a year if it needs it or not usually at the onset of winter time. Have not had an oil related failure using diesel motor oil in gasoline engines for 20 years now. I have used, Rotella, Mobil unsynthetic, and mostly Royal Purple now since the last 5 years. One oil for everything I own. Saving a ton of money. It's guaranteed to mix with anybodys oil in writing and they mean it. Read the API label circle on the containers. CC,CD, CF etc is for compression engines. SE, SF, SG etc means for spark engines. You see a C series and an S series in that API circle, it means either or. Don't let anybody tell you different.
Older higher mileage engines with wear, need higher film strength to help cool, clean, seal, & lubricate properly.
Older higher mileage engines with wear, need higher film strength to help cool, clean, seal, & lubricate properly.
Then my friend said he uses Rotella oil because of all the additives. Now I don't know what the hell to do.
Will getting rid of the semi-synthetic and going back to conventional oil get rid of the "smoke'?
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