S type r burning oil
#21
02-18-2011, 06:41 AM
Veteran Member
Hi, I was researching oils for my 1988 Jaguar XJS, the compression is good, it has 135,000 kilometers, and it never smoked til NOW~!~! The engine was timed properly this time, new plugs, new wires, cap and rotor, mechanical advanced was seized and repaired, THEN the mechanics put in SEMI-SYNTHETIC OIL, now it has blue mixed with the mostly whitish grey "smoke",(it is really cold here right now, -30 Celsius). I was told that the semi synthetic oil has smaller molecules and it does not have "swelling agents" in the oil for the rubber seals.
Then my friend said he uses Rotella oil because of all the additives. Now I don't know what the hell to do.
Will getting rid of the semi-synthetic and going back to conventional oil get rid of the "smoke'?
Then my friend said he uses Rotella oil because of all the additives. Now I don't know what the hell to do.
Will getting rid of the semi-synthetic and going back to conventional oil get rid of the "smoke'?
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Marc (02-19-2011)
#22
02-19-2011, 08:53 AM
Below ZERO cold starts are the most dangerous and cause the most wear to an engine. I'd avoid reving the engine till the temp needle starts to move a bit. The white smoke is condensation. If you can smell a little oil, then you may have a valve seal starting to leak, but this is normal. If you using 10W40 stop or it will use more oil. If you have a lot of that around you want to use up, use half and half with diesel grade motor oil. ie 15W40.
15W40 is going to be thick in very cold weather, and i'd recommend cutting it with another high quality lubricant fur cold weather use. Personally, I use 100% synthetic turbine oil as a thinner in winter. There are usually 3 grades available. An ISO 32, a 46, and a 64. 4:1 ratio seems about right for temps down to ZERO F. I don't drive if it's colder than that.
Pay special attention to the inside bottom of the oil filler cap. It reflects what the internals of the engine looks like. If there's gunk, your oil isn't of a high enough quality. Synthetics will gererally clean this stuff out if you change your oil more often.
Yes synthetics have a smaller molecule and will make some engines leak more, which is why the diesel grade works extremely well in many cases. Rule of thumb: cutting a 15W40 with a iso32 turbine or syn hydraulic will give you a synthetic blend that is close to 10W30 is a 50/50 ratio. With the engines of today having tighter tolerances, a thicker oil isn't always the best thing to do because it causes more friction when it's cold. It pays to warm your engines slowly.
15W40 is going to be thick in very cold weather, and i'd recommend cutting it with another high quality lubricant fur cold weather use. Personally, I use 100% synthetic turbine oil as a thinner in winter. There are usually 3 grades available. An ISO 32, a 46, and a 64. 4:1 ratio seems about right for temps down to ZERO F. I don't drive if it's colder than that.
Pay special attention to the inside bottom of the oil filler cap. It reflects what the internals of the engine looks like. If there's gunk, your oil isn't of a high enough quality. Synthetics will gererally clean this stuff out if you change your oil more often.
Yes synthetics have a smaller molecule and will make some engines leak more, which is why the diesel grade works extremely well in many cases. Rule of thumb: cutting a 15W40 with a iso32 turbine or syn hydraulic will give you a synthetic blend that is close to 10W30 is a 50/50 ratio. With the engines of today having tighter tolerances, a thicker oil isn't always the best thing to do because it causes more friction when it's cold. It pays to warm your engines slowly.
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