I have searched the forums but found very litle... I´m considering a 2003 S-type R, does anyone know of the common faults etc, what should a potential buyer look for? Gearbox/engine can both handle all that power?

 

Powertrain is fine. Very Rare for failures.
Look at suspension bushings in the rear. Headlamps for proper operation, if you turn headlights to on and then turn key on you should see headlamps sweep up and down.

Really not too many problems.

 

As you understand, that was just the answer I was hoping for!

All S-type R use the 4.2 v8 and six speed gearbox, not 4.0 and fourspeed like the XJR and XKR, right?

 

xjr 2003 has 4.0 litre 2004 xjr has 4.2 litre. 2003 xkr had 4.0 litre and 2003.5 xk has 4.2.

 

I've had great success with my Jaguars. I've own the TypeR 1 yr now and had my first major issue yesterday! It's at the dealer now and will keep you posted.

Also, GET A WARRANTY on this or ANY high dollar luxocar! Parts and service is high..

FUN AND PANACHE is great too...

 

Thanks for all your replys!

The_Ikon; what kind of problem do you have with your R?

 

Ihad to get Jaguar tosend out a tow truck to take it to the dealer. I had my fuel pump replaced in my XJ8 2yrs ago and I'm almost certain it's the pump in the TypeR. I'm glad this one will be cover under the select edition warranty! keep ya posted..

 

pumps arent really common ive only done 2-3.. the REM computer controlling the fuel pump tends to go.. more then pumps do..

 

I have a 2003 and have been through the following (most of which is fully outlined at the www.thelurch.com):

1> Torque converter replacement: There's a TSB that lists specific 2003 VIN ranges that are prone to problems. This is a $3,000 dealer job if outside of warranty. Jag partially covered this with $1,000 as it failed just after the factory warranty expired.

2> Headlights: check motor leveling and actual adjustment. Just because they "sweep" down and then up does not mean the headlights are not broken. My aligning motors were fine but the passenger headlight mechanical adjustment was broken. Check the lights at night to ensure they're pointing forward at the proper vertical angle. 2003's are also prone to the passenger motor level not properly adjusting. If the motors are good but the lights are broken - there's a home made fix. If lights need replacing - they are not cheap and require bumper removal to R&R.

3> Steering wheel pump "cooing": makes a dove cooing noise when turning the wheel full lock to lock. On the second fix mine was finally cured with a new seal and additive to the power steering fluid.

4> Coolant reservoir: the front plastic tube (top of the tank, parallel to the front bumper and closest to the front of the car) fatigued at the neck leading the rubber coolant hose. Again, a problem in a specific VIN range of 2003s. A new reservoir tank costs approximately $120.00. Labor is probably an hour but I did it myself.

5> Water leaking on the Throttle Positional Sensor: Again specific to 2003s and there's a physical patch that can be applied. Problem usually occurs with pressurized car washes and forcing water into the engine compartment. My dealer patch failed twice leaving the car in restricted performance mode and an 11mph top-speed until the TPS sensor dried out. I've also come up with a home made fix that has cured this problem.

6> Rotors: Check thickness - if they need to be replaced they are expensive. The cheapest per pair price I've seen is around $350.00. Pads are fairly cheap so focus on the rotors.

7> Navigation/HVAC 22-degree fault: HVAC would lock with 22 degree Celsius message. This was a very intermittent problem and would require a restart to clear. My nav system ultimately failed (no idea if it was linked to the 22 degree error) but after replacing the unit (under warranty) the HVAC problem was cured.

I love the car and it is a wonderful bargain on the used market. That said, if buying used:

1> buy one with a fair amount of factory warranty still on the clock so you have time to find the kinks and have them repaired, or

2> buy one that is covered by the Jag Select warranty or one that has a very comprehensive bumper to bumper extended warranty.

Good luck,
Eric

 

Thanks for your reply. You do seem to have had some problems with you S-type.

Is the gearbox seald for life? To be honest, I really hate that with newcars, seems tobe the reson for manyproblems with high-milers,buth gearbox issues (exept for the lurch) perhaps is mot common onthe 97-98 XJ8?

Is it possible to change the gearbox oil at all?

Engine and gearbox is good for highmiles? One of my XJ12:s had over 200.000 onthe clock and no problems, and I´mcurrentley looking at a S-type R thats is close to 100.000 miles.

 

If it has been maintained well you should be fine

 

ill sell you mine after new years

 

I'll give you $1000 for it right now.....lol
Why wait for new years.

 

With the exception of the rotors and headlights, I think you can chalk up most of these issues to the "first year" woes - and hence the TSBs.

With the exception of the torque converter, all the issues can be easily determined prior to buying. My TQ converter had 15,000 miles of symptoms until finally posting a "gearbox" fault code.

Best,
Eric

 

my tourqe converter was replaced @ 43k along with headlights on my 03 str.select covered them fullyand havent had a problem since. embassured were yourtourqe converter"symptoms" light pulses at a constant speed? thats what i noticed then it went to restricted performance

 

526,
You got it. Car had to shift into the highest gear available at constant 40-45mph cruising and then the RPMs would "surge" ever so slightly. The surge would go away at 50 or above. It stayed this way for almost a year and the dealer kept attempting to fix with transmission ECU flashes. I finally got the fault after a very demonstrable "buck" at highway speeds, which was 2 months after the factory warranty expired. JAG would not cover despite VIN range listing and prior work order documentation but the dealer did cut $1,000 off the $3,000 repair. It was a rather dissapointing decision from JAG although I was grateful for the dealer's assistance.

 

Yeah, when i first got mine it would buck usually around 50 mph when the engine was pretty cold. I think they did the diff and/or torque converter to fix it. Sorry to hear they didnt take care of it all for you!

 

I got my car backand it was the fuel pump! Also what are the vin ranges for the converter tsb?

 

Resurrecting an old thread for a newbie. I am looking to buy an S-Type R and had a few questions.

What are some of the top points I should look for that cause issues.

A little about the one I'm looking at, guy says the engine was recently rebuilt and has the engine dyno sheet, also have all new rotors and pads. New battery. Has 112K miles
He also says it needs a new windshield and two tires...which windshield does the R have? Heated, rain sensor, or auto dimming?

Just looking for tips on buying it, I think I'm getting a good price but should I stay away since it has a rebuilt engine?

Thanks

 

There are threads with all that and more as I recall so best to just read them.

If you'd filled in your location people could suggest but in any case buyers could choose all manner of things.

Try putting the VIN into www.etis.ford.com