So, I've recently taken out the Jag after a short 2 month winter season. The first day out I filled up the tank and drove it to work (20 miles round trip) with no issues. Then, took the wife out to eat that evening and on the way home the engine cut out. I assumed I had turned the ignition key with my knee and immediately restarted it while rolling along. Parked it and a couple days later (yesterday) pulled it out of the garage to take it to work. It cut out while I was out of the car closing the garage door. So, I got in and restarted with no issues. (a quiet voice in my head said "don't drive this to work" but I ignored it). Anyway, got to work OK but when I got into the car at the end of the day it would not start. It cranked freely. No engine lights on then or during this latest episode. I tried several attempts , waiting a few seconds in between so as not to overheat the starter. I was convinced it wouldn't start and made a call to my wife asking to be picked up. After that 5 minute phone call, I figured I'd try once more and it fired right up.

I took the long way home , avoiding the highway, in case it stalled and wouldn't restart but it made it 10 miles home. Once in the garage, I turned it off and tried starting it and it started normally.

Any ideas on what this could be? Its never had this sort of issue before. No CEL have come on , nor any other dash lights. I have not checked codes yet because I didn't think they were only triggered if the CEL came on.

There is no stumbling or hesitation before it cuts out. As I mentioned above, its almost as though I simply turned off the key.

Battery is fairly new and was charged when starting it up after winter storage.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

More than likely a failing fuel pump, which will not trigger the MIL or set a DTC.

Connect to the PCM using a Bluetooth dongle via the OBD port so you can see the fuel pressure during the no-start situation using a smart phone and the Torque app.

Fuel pressure should be around 3 bar (330 kPa) with the ignition switched ON prior to engaging the starter.

Check fuel pressure and report back.

 

Thanks! I have never checked the PCM before but will look into it and try to see if this is the fuel pump going.

 

So, I decided to change the fuel pump to see if that fixed the problem. I ordered the pump and decided to fix the leaky passenger side valve cover gasket while I waited.

I fixed the gasket and then proceeded straight to the fuel pump. When I got finished it started but the CEL and restricted performance light came on ( hadnt done that before all of this).

I’ve tried starting it over the last couple of days and it still has some hard starting. Though nit as bad as before.

I checked the code with my OBDII scanner and it shows P1338. Any idea what this could be? I did a search and found possible MF Signal problems. What is MF?

In hindsight, I wish I had started it after the valve cover but before doing the fuel pump to isolate the problem.

thanks!

 

P1 codes are non-generic so you only want a meaning for your car's make, model, year, engine size, etc (which the one you have isn't for).

The codes are in the workshop manual / codes PDF (free download on this site & JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource) and you'll see that one relates to the fuel pump.

 

Sounds like code related to the fuel pump. Did you disconnect the battery before disconnecting anything electric related to the fuel pump?

Also, check your VIN - you may actually have 2 fuel pumps. I believe they went to one fuel pump sometime during the 2005 MY.

If you have 2 fuel pumps and changed one I would plan on changing the other.

In the meantime, double check all your electrical connections. If all is good there (and you didn't disconnect the battery before commencing work) delete the code and see if it comes back.

Did you replace the fuel pump with OEM or aftermarket? If the latter - could be the culprit...

 

2003 should have 2 pumps, both feeding the engine.

 

I believe I disconnected the battery after I disconnected wires to the pump because I forgot to do it beforehand. 😳.

I installed an AC Delco pump into the original assembly. I believe the new pump is working, I heard it on before I reinstalled the back seat. Ill look under the driver’s side back seat area to see if there is another pump. If there is one, I might replace it but I dont see how that would trigger the CEL now when it didn't before all of this.


A friend of mine has a mechanic’s code reader but I probably wont be able to take it to him with the social distancing going on right now.

I thought perhaps moving the bundle of wires out of the way to remove the valve cover may have caused a short . God help me if that is the case....there are a lot of wires . I also thought maybe one of the coils went bad after being removed and reinstalled. (Not sure if they are that delicate)

 

I’ll also delete the code for now to see if it cones back.

 

OK, so I reset codes and have been running the car for a few minutes now and so far no CEL. It also looks Fuel pressure is 44 psi. Is this in the normal range?

 

Also, confirmed that I do have two fuel pumps.

 

It's running OL (open loop) but should be CL (closed), so something is very unhappy indeed.

Note, like many codes and as the doc show, takes 2 cycles to flag.

 

You need to change the other fuel pump. When disconnecting the fuel pump electrics (even w/ car off) probably set the code. I fond with my 04 XJR DTC's will set if I disconnect something even w/ car off.

44psi is low for the SC engine. I think you need to be closer to 50 - 55psi.

Did you change your fuel filter?

As JagV8 mentioned car should be in CL not OL after running for a while.

 

I have not yet changed the fuel filter . I will go ahead and order one along with another fuel pump.

As for the OL reading and the fuel pressure, this was without having stargazing the car in over 24 hours. I simply went out to the garage, inserted the OBD reader and turned ignition half way to get the codes.

 

Just checked with car running fuel pressure is 55 and loops are CL (closed) at idle.

 

Much better

 

This case is not closed. I’ll be ordering another fuel pump for the driver’s side and a fuel filter and update this thread once that is done. Hopefully, that will cure the start problem.

 

My 06 STR had 110,000 mileson it when i changed the fuel filter. omg the crap that pored out looked like iced tea but cloudy. it was nasty

 

Have to change my fuel filter. Thanks for the reminder...

Its along the frame rail, right?

 

yes. Front left wheelwell