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he’s filling it through the standpipe meant for an audi. the car can still move with 2 or 3 quarts low, that’s not the problem. if the filter isn’t hooked up right i don’t think the car will move
Thank You @WinterJag ! I was beginning to think I was crazy. I bought this car, drove it home smelling coolant the whole way, parked it and ripped the front end off to fix the leaking hoses. Broke a transmission line replacing the radiator, lost 2 quarts of trans fluid. I sent a sample of the trans fluid out to be analyzed, came back normal. Repaired hose, couldn't get the fill plug out the side, so I bought a new steel pan with the bottom fill port. Changed fluid, filter, pan. During the time I had it apart the battery died, got a new battery. Charged battery. Once I had the car ready to start, it woudl throw codes, even without driving. Can't be clutches because they don't go bad sitting still.
Did more testing tonight, same routine. Additional details.
1. Put car in to gear, it actually takes a few seconds to set the code. I can hear an audible click in the shifter area when the code is set, like a solenoid engaging.
2. Sit with the car in gear a few minutes, after the code is set, there is a low growl coming from under the car. Clear the code, growl stops.
3. I can watch the pressure regulators change state when I put the car in to gear, some that are .848A go to .048, some that are .048 go to .848, some in the middle go one way or the other. I can obviously record video if it helps but I assume these are the solenoids (there are 6) controlled by the PWM signal. I assume these are the intended or correct state changes.
4. I can also watch the transmission switches L1-L4 change state, also assume that is correct.
Procedure I read said fill temp is 30-35. First time I checked it the fluid was at 40, second time 32. Both times had a tiny stream of fluid. It is pretty close to the correct level if not dead nuts on.
Got it on the fill procedure! I just was having trouble figuring it out by description. I should mention (not to be stuck on fluid level!) but when I was refilling my trans, after I got to the point where you have to turn it on to add more fluid (probably a 3-4 liters low at that point), the trans made a growling kind of sound. Once I got more fluid in it, the sound went away. Again, not saying this is your issue at all, just an observation I had since you mentioned that noise. Being that I'm in the sciences and do research, I am a big proponent of better to have more info and not need it than need more info and not have it!
As to what fuses to check, I don't know off the top of my head. Just check the owners manual and anything that lists transmission or something like it. I doubt that is your issue but it's a 5 second job that can rule out a possible source of the problem.
One more thought. Is it possible the shifter mechanism itself is bad? I vaguely recall reading somewhere on here that the gear selector unit can go bad internally and cause issues. You might want to double check me on that one though!
Well, called Jag USA, they said the car was at the dealer every year, but the dealer opened a repair order but never closed it so they cannot see what was done. Called the dealer (Hendrick, Charlotte), they don't work on anything older than 2005 but they said they would have a service advisor look at the records and get back to me
Got it on the fill procedure! I just was having trouble figuring it out by description. I should mention (not to be stuck on fluid level!) but when I was refilling my trans, after I got to the point where you have to turn it on to add more fluid (probably a 3-4 liters low at that point), the trans made a growling kind of sound. Once I got more fluid in it, the sound went away. Again, not saying this is your issue at all, just an observation I had since you mentioned that noise. Being that I'm in the sciences and do research, I am a big proponent of better to have more info and not need it than need more info and not have it!
As to what fuses to check, I don't know off the top of my head. Just check the owners manual and anything that lists transmission or something like it. I doubt that is your issue but it's a 5 second job that can rule out a possible source of the problem.
One more thought. Is it possible the shifter mechanism itself is bad? I vaguely recall reading somewhere on here that the gear selector unit can go bad internally and cause issues. You might want to double check me on that one though!
I used to sell junkyard parts on ebay, Jag shifters were a good moneymaker. I thought the issue was the park gate solenoid going bad though. Trans fill issue could be a problem, but I went to great pains to check it. Checked level with a level on frame the first time, on the pan rail the second. Warmed car up, cycled it through P, R, D positions, put it back in park and pulled the plug, fluid came out.
So calculated slip on 2nd engagement is there for each error, so that does not refer to 2nd gear engagement, what does it refer to? My fault happens without the car ever moving so I don't understand why I am getting this fault.
I am beginning to suspect TCM has lost its mind more and more. Just need to be able to program a replacement.
So calculated slip on 2nd engagement is there for each error, so that does not refer to 2nd gear engagement, what does it refer to? My fault happens without the car ever moving so I don't understand why I am getting this fault.
I am beginning to suspect TCM has lost its mind more and more. Just need to be able to program a replacement.
You will need the SDD to do so or pay the Jag dealership or an indy that might have iit.
There is a bigger problem of course. Everyone, including me, wants to wave their arms and say bad TCM. However is behaving like this is exactly what it is supposed to do with this set of conditions because it is extremely repeatable. I have recreated the fault at least 30 times, always the same process. Which exactly is what a computer would do. So there is a bad part, somewhere, that the computer can identify as bad without the car ever moving, that no on either side of the world has any idea how to identify. And apparently all the guys who worked on these back in the day, have moved on to something else now.
There is a bigger problem of course. Everyone, including me, wants to wave their arms and say bad TCM. However is behaving like this is exactly what it is supposed to do with this set of conditions because it is extremely repeatable. I have recreated the fault at least 30 times, always the same process. Which exactly is what a computer would do. So there is a bad part, somewhere, that the computer can identify as bad without the car ever moving, that no on either side of the world has any idea how to identify. And apparently all the guys who worked on these back in the day, have moved on to something else now.
This link can be helpful to know more about your transmission, but beware that these guys are into fixing or replacing the valve body even for simple things- it is like an obsessions with them. In my case I spoke to them as someone, thinking they were doing me a favor, had erased by TCM adaptions and I was having some difficulty getting them back.
So read with that caution in mind, but still great info that could find you some solution and give you a better understanding of your transmission.
Their NA phone number, where I talked to their service desk is ZF Services North America, LLC., telephone: 847 478 6868.
Give them details and they will have a reasonably good direction for you.
Before I did anything I would find some Indy or some Jag user nearby that has the SDD or the ability to erase your TCM adaptations and see if you can get them set correctly. Your firmware could have been corrupted somehow, but I really doubt that, but even reloading on top the most current TCM firmware would not hurt.
TBB
Last edited by jazzwineman; 06-26-2021 at 10:39 PM.
Got the Icarsoft i930 today. Reasonable price from Amazon, reads all the same stuff as the NT 520 Pro - but no further clues to the issues. Bought another 03 S type today, facebook users project car with 138k. He has engine issues, I have trans issues. Easier to troubleshoot when you can swap between two cars (my secret for getting LR's running), although I am not thrilled about swapping trans pieces.
I have read up on the adaptations and seems like that is mostly related to pressure regulation and clutch slippage to get the values they want on the shifts. My issue is different. The TCM is seeing something it does not like even before the car moves off. I have been trying to find out more about the input speed sensor as I think it might be in there. It reads close to engine RPM when I put the car in to gear. I don't think it should be doing that. I think both the front and rear clutches are slipping, but trying to verify. It would be helpful if someone else with the 6hp26 and a scanner could verify if their input speed sensor reads rpm close to engine rpm sitting still.
Got the Icarsoft i930 today. Reasonable price from Amazon, reads all the same stuff as the NT 520 Pro - but no further clues to the issues. Bought another 03 S type today, facebook users project car with 138k. He has engine issues, I have trans issues. Easier to troubleshoot when you can swap between two cars (my secret for getting LR's running), although I am not thrilled about swapping trans pieces.
I have read up on the adaptations and seems like that is mostly related to pressure regulation and clutch slippage to get the values they want on the shifts. My issue is different. The TCM is seeing something it does not like even before the car moves off. I have been trying to find out more about the input speed sensor as I think it might be in there. It reads close to engine RPM when I put the car in to gear. I don't think it should be doing that. I think both the front and rear clutches are slipping, but trying to verify. It would be helpful if someone else with the 6hp26 and a scanner could verify if their input speed sensor reads rpm close to engine rpm sitting still.
My suggestion was to clear the adaptions and see if there has been an update to the firmware of the TCM and even then, I might still load the firmware and then you would have to reset the adaptions. ZF also said that to reset just drive the car normally and no in sport mode for 500 miles.
I can use my SDD or the Icarsoft to read the speed sensor, but I can tell you that looking at the rpm when putting it into gear I get a minor dip in rpm's, but it has to be no more or less than 40rpm. So for all intents about the same. If you can reach ZF on Monday they will have a ready answer for you, I am sure.
Just for clarification, not looking for the engine rpm, looking for the input shaft speed sensor rpm. I can't seem to get a definitive answer if it should be turning at all.
OK, contacting ZF was a great idea, they have been very helpful. They are asking for the pressures required to fill the clutches and I don't believe my scanner reads that, if it does I cannot find them. Can someone please connect their SDD and confirm it will read those pressures, it looks like I will need to order a cable and get the software loaded to get this information.
06-24-2021 | 04:59 PM
