That is their newest model and It will work. I am not sure you would use the software version, as you might get caught paying per hour use. I believe that all you need is ver 1.33 and make sure the date is set correctly on your laptop and that you don't connect it to the net.

TBB

 

just use the cracked v160. PM me and i’ll teach you how to set it up

 

Ok, Eriksson Industries has been quite helpful along with ZF USA. ZF is asking for pressures, which my tool cannot read. Hoping someone can confirm the SDD will read pressures, I can find nothing on the internet about reading ZF transmission pressures.

Eriksson and I have narrowed it down to clutch D, the only clutch common to 1st and Reverse. Four possibilities:

1. Clutch plates are fried - unlikely, I drove it home after purchase with no trans fault, sat in the driveway till now.
2. Apply piston is leaking - maybe, trans does have a lot of miles on it. Can test with the valve body out.
3. MV1 Solenoid is bad, shorted or open - unlikely, TCM would give a bad solenoid fault
4. MV1 not giving full line presssure - maybe, pressure reading would tell.
5. Stuck valve - Eriksson thinks this it. Can remove valve body and inspect.

I will likely get under the car after the fourth and drop the valve body. Tempted to put a low mile trans in with a new solenoid kit and call it a day, but I want to get my eyes on the solenoids first and see if they have already been changed.

 

Did you all discuss the always leaking sleeve and any of these parts as listed by Amazon?



TBB

 

Yes it was discussed. If the seals have split that could be the loss of pressure, would be helpful to be able to read the pressures to confim but upon removal I can inspect. Of course replacement is a given after removal.

BTW, I am so freaking tired of shitty polymer components out of Jag/LR/BMW/Audi/Porsche/VW. Why do these guys have such trouble spec'ing polymer components that will last? Toyota, Honda, Ford, Hyundai, Kia don't seem to have the same level of problems? It is just poor material engineering plain and simple. Solid mechanical designs (planetaries, engines, etc.) hampered with crap components made of rubber and plastic.

DO BETTER!

 

Can someone please provide an input speed sensor reading with their car in gear, sitting still?

 

Alright, I got some readings for Extinct. Figured I'd post them here in case they may help someone else down the road as well. Here are the readings I took with IDS from my 2003 S-type R which is working fine.

First, Input Speed Sensor Reading: With the car running, brake on (so not moving) and the car in gear (D or R) the reading was the same, 0 RPM. It did blip up a bit immediately after engaging the gear, but dropped right back down to 0 a second or two later.

Now more readings. With IDS the only option I can see related to pressures are the Trans Pressure sensors, but they give a reading in mA, no actual pressures. Still, this could help determine if things are at least working right. Now if you look at yours and see the same readings, it doesn't rule out a sticking or not fully working solenoid. It might show proper voltage/amps but just not be doing its thing! But, if some of these are off, well, that points at a problem. Again, these readings are with the car in gear, foot on brake not moving.

Sensor In D In R

PR1 850mA 50mA
PR2 850mA 50mA
PR3 50mA 50mA
PR4 50mA 50mA
PR5 790mA 790mA
PR6 50mA 50mA

So, based on this it seems that the 5th gear issue you were getting even not moving makes sense. Clearly, 5th seems to be at some stage or ready or something all the time. I also looked at the L1-4 values, but they just say active or not. I don't think that will help here since I think it's the above values that will tell you if things are working or not! Let me know if there is anything else that might help.

 

great job....if it helps any, i get the same readings on my 06 str within a few mA on the solenoids and exact same for input speed...all under same conditions done with my i930 icarsoft

 

I get about the same as Scott and winterjag does on both Icarsoft and IDS/SDD.

TBB

 

Well, looks like we're 3 for 3! Seems like we have a good baseline now to work from.

 

solenoid EDS4 operates the D and E clutch if i remember right

 

Thanks so much for this, it definitely helps. It tells us two things:

1. Input speed sensor - mine reads slightly less than engine rpm, so that confirms that clutch D is not holding as it should. This is why my TCM is throwing an incorrect gear ratio code. So now we know it is one of the five possible causes listed above.
2. We now have 3 different scanners giving us the mA output to the solenoids but not the pressure in the circuit. In reviewing the factory manuals, I can confirm that no pressure sensors exist in the transmission and there is no way to get a pressure reading on the circuit. There is a pressure port on the side that reads pump pressure but that tells us nothing of the pressure downstream of EDS4 and MV1 (the solenoids responsible for holding clutch D).

Now it is time to drop the valve body and find out if there is a stuck valve, or if the piston on D is leaking.

 

Drop the pan and check to ensure the mechanical shift pin is properly lined up in the valve body. Don't think TCM is the issue. Sounds like a mechanical shifting issue.

Also check to ensure you have proper fluid level at 40 deg C. By chance what fluid did you use? If not LG6 or Mercon SP you have trouble brewing, period...

 

K

 

I have continued to troubleshoot the car and confirmed that clutch D is slipping. I have not dropped the pan to inspect any farther as it appears there can be only three possibilities for the issue:

1. Leaking D clutch piston
2. Worn D clutch plates
3. Leaking D clutch circuit

After much research and speaking to most of the 6hp26 experts in the US including ZF tech support I have learned that even if I could repair one issue in the trans, at this mileage another may crop up, so it really deserves a reman. trans. I have too many projects at the moment so will be letting this one go, look for it in the for sale section.

 

How were you able to confirm that the D clutch was slipping for sure? I think that would be important for the forum to know.

TBB

 

Input shaft speed sensor shows rotation close to engine rpm with car in D or R, foot on brake,car motionless. It should read zero. Clutch D is one of two clutches that connect the input shaft to the output shaft and the only one common to both first and reverse. Depending on R or D one of the front clutches and clutch D connect the input shaft to the output shaft via planetaries, Functioning correctly with the car motionless the input shaft should not turn. Drive testing confirms as there is no slip in 2nd or 3rd gear but there is in first and it immediately throws a code once underway if it downshifts to first as the TCM detects the slippage as excessive. Monitoring the EDS4 solenoid which controls clutch D confirms proper operation. There could be leakage somewhere in the hydraulic circuit but it seems like a long shot and like I said even if I found it and fixed something else would crop up, e clutch, valve body fault, something.

Apparently this is a relatively unusual failure as the E clutch is normally the first to fail, however this car does have unusually high mileage.

These transmissions are far from the durability we saw in the 4HP22 and 4HP24 used in Jags, Beemers, and LR's for many years. If you have one in good shape and have not already replaced the valve body I recommend you do so. If you wait until you have an issue with a seal or a solenoid that is so bad the car shifts poorly you have likely already increased the wear on the clutch packs due to slippage and potentially damaged the bushing surfaces due to pressure loss in the circuit. I am very disappointed in ZF based on what I learned in this project, but then maybe I held them in too high a regard based on the 22 and 24 transmissions which basically never wear out. GM, Dodge, Volvo, and even some Japanese makes are known that their transmissions won't last 200k. I guess Allison and MB are the only ones left still making a trans that will go that far consistently.

I will post up here if I wind up fitting a remanufactured transmission, but right now I just need to reduce the project count in the yard.

 

Good luck to you and keep us posted. I am glad I referred you to ZF as they seem most helpful compared to other companies. I think you will find their new transmission are really top of the line, but they still are mechanical
"beings".

TBB

 

you’re complaining about the earliest version of a transmission that’s literally 20 years old and has 200k miles

the 6HP is one of the most successful transmission designs of all time and variants are still in production to this day. obviously the 8HP is head and shoulders above any of the competition

 

+1