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S Type Rust proofing

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Old 07-19-2018, 10:33 AM
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Default S Type Rust proofing

Next on my list is sill cover and floor cover removal. Then clean, treat and paint/ underseal.

Looking for recommendations on products, tools and materials needed. I have the use of a ramp in August so would like to take full advantage of it.
A
Also any links to threads you have created yourself.
 
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:56 AM
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Did you receive an MoT advisory on rust?
 
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:02 PM
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No, as you know most of it is hidden. I would like to treat it before it sets in. Had to scrap my last s type r due to rust.
 
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Old 07-25-2018, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by melhookv12
No, as you know most of it is hidden. I would like to treat it before it sets in. Had to scrap my last s type r due to rust.
Over here they let us drive them till they mechaically fail. In NJ there are zero safety inspections now. All emissions inspections are simply a read of your OBDII system until the vehicle reaches a certain age then nothing.

I have exotic vintage Italian cars and it always makes me cringe to see some of the rare cars Eurospares in the UK is parting out due to MOT issues. I don't drive my nice cars in the salt. PERIOD. Sometimes we have salt dust on the roads here for more than a month at a time too. It always amazes me to see people driving nice cars (anything north of $55K) in the winter here.

There's an awful lot of stuff to protect underneath on a modern car. A lot of the chassis and mechanical bits are painted but have such sharp edges that the paint is way too thin and that's where the rust starts.
I think the underside body parts still look pretty good on my STR but it's had very few exposures to direct salty water. Salt dust on the other hand is like EVIL! If I still had a lift inside a garage with 12ft ceilings I could address all of these issues much better. As it is I'm currently trying to deal with front frame corrosion that caused two cracks on my 99 Chevy suburban in the steering box area on both sides. The way the frame is constructed it has open, gaping punched holes in the front and on the sides where salty water can pour in. Not a lot of rust protection to begin with either.

Some people use these products:
Salt-Away Home Page
https://www.fluid-film.com/
I've put POR15 on a lot of tough spots as well.

I hope you have a lift for application.
 
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:58 AM
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I have used Hammerite on the underside of cars and on steel bike frames.
Two coats gives a good thickness of paint. Its not a pretty finish because it is brush applied and thick paint also it goes off fairly quickly.
It is robust and the plain black is available in gloss or satin.

You can't stop rust once its there, but you can delay it.
 
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Old 07-25-2018, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Staatsof
It always amazes me to see people driving nice cars (anything north of $55K) in the winter here.
I think partial reason is they overspent and can't afford a winter beater.

I drive Subarus in the winter, excellent all wheel drive system that combined with Michelin X-Ice tires makes winter driving manageable. I use oil-based, dripping, rust control spray (Krown or Rust Check) and it notably slows down the rust. If you start from new, it delays onset of rust by a decade or more. If you start after rust manifests you only buying extra couple years. The issue with rust is that some rust always results in more rust.
 
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Old 07-26-2018, 09:42 AM
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In regard to the S-type I think you will find that the minor 2005MY update was used to improve the situation regarding rust protection.
As well as visual changes to the bumpers and sill covers the drainage was also improved making rusting less of a problem in the later cars.
 
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Old 07-27-2018, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SinF
I think partial reason is they overspent and can't afford a winter beater.

I drive Subarus in the winter, excellent all wheel drive system that combined with Michelin X-Ice tires makes winter driving manageable. I use oil-based, dripping, rust control spray (Krown or Rust Check) and it notably slows down the rust. If you start from new, it delays onset of rust by a decade or more. If you start after rust manifests you only buying extra couple years. The issue with rust is that some rust always results in more rust.
The lack of this type of service facility in this area is frustrating. I cannot make applications like this to my vehicles myself as I do not have a lift and place where I could do this. If you read about the two products I listed they mention the capability of integrating them into car wash facilities. I wish I could have used them from day one with my Suburban. There's nothing any manufacturer can do when the salt is as bad as it gets here in the winter. Yes the body can be well coated but those mechanical bits haven't a prayer when you own a car for longer than a typical lease lease days. After 3 years manufacturers really don't give a crap and the cars probably will survive for the secondary lease but it will get very ugly soon even if the engine, drive train and interior are in great condition.The mechanicals in the wheel wells just get brutalized very quickly. I've had to go to well powder coated calipers and stainless steel brake bleed screws for my winter cars.
 
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Old 07-28-2018, 04:39 PM
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hi
its worth getting the "Krown rust treatment" done
they strip the whole car and spray every where, they do a really good job, they also clean the car after
it also comes with a guarantee
have a look here Krown
and here on facebook https://www.facebook.com/krownuk/
cheers
Joe
 
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