i have the subs, i have the tools, just missing the car.......................still at jag getting my torque coverter replaced. Going on 3 weeks now........im going through withdrawl

 

3 weeks...,did they ship it back to England for the repair..lol..
hope you get is soon. I want to know about those subs.

 

its subwoofer replacing time. Camera is charged, and i will start the removal process with pics this weekend. Also i will document the testing of the factory subwoofers with pics and test measurements. I plan on fixing the "bass" problems with our vehicles. stay tuned

 

waiting patiently, even though the subs in my STR are better than the subs in my old 00 V8 Stype

 

subscribed...just for the heck of it. I love audio upgrades.

 

I am patiently waiting to hear about your progress. The STR is an amazing car and the only irratating weakness is the sound system... The base system in the Volvo C70 has more bass with the top down than does the `premium` system in the S-type.

Good luck with the install!

 

Ok, so far i measured the factory subs, 2.6 ohm voice coils. Kinda low to just swap them out with something else. HOWEVER, i would imagine the are listed as 3 ohm voice coils. So far i have EVERY single pic of the removal sequence, from the latches to the bolts with the plug pics and how they mount from front to the backside. I took about an hour to get it all apart, take pics as i went, and do the measurements, then remove the speakers, and replace and the panels. Im at work for about 5 hours today, and then ill load up the sequence with pics.

 

Cannot wait!!! I replaced the factory subs in the wifes STR with a seperate 12" sub and audison amp.........can be conviced to swap the rear deck subs though.......what subs have you used in the end and did you do anything with regards to the low Ohm issue as most subs are 4 ohm??

Cheers,

Damien.

 

I imagine a very efficient 4 ohm sub would do well in the stock locations, sure it would pull slightly less power than the stockers, but that's not always a bad thing.

On the other hand I doubt running a pair of 2 ohm subs would really overtax the stock amp. Most factory amps I've seen were stable down to 2 ohms.

 

i will kindly disagree with this, ive been doing car audio for about 20 years, and i have seen my fair share of fixing these exact things AFTER the problems. I completely understand your logic though, i would agree to a certain extent, but i have to disagree profusely with the bold statement above. Simply looking at Ohms Law will be the arguement in my eyes, also remember lack of heat dissapation where the factory amp is located.



On another note, i have all the pics, just got to upload them here in a file and then lay out the procedure. Its like 50 pics of just removing the subs. I tend to show every detail.

 

If you like, I can upload all the pics to my website and create a page showing them with your instructions if you think you'd find that easier to organize than posting 50 pics in a forum.

 

while im pretty good with a computer, how would i go about uploading 50 pics anyway??? i have them all ready, just to upload them one at a time here, is way too much of a project for me right now.

 

just use photobucket and post a link, you can upload all 50 at once.

 

ok ill try doing that tonight. hopefully i can have it done by midnight

 

Well, allow me to retort...

I was tired when I wrote that, and I had my ohm's law a little off. How ever, I will stand by my statement about the amps, particularly Ford's amps being stable down to two ohms.

Further more, if the two subs in the trunk are SVC subs @3.7-ohm each and they are wired in parallel (ie all the + terminals on one wire and all the - terminals on another), they are already pulling a 1.35 ohm draw off the amp. If they are in series then its about 7.4 ohm load. I kind of doubt that they are running an amp at that high of a resistance...

 

ouputs from the factory amp are individual ouputs. Speakers sit at 2.6 not 3.7. If they sat at 3.7 we wouldnt even be having this conversation(giving the benefit of the doubt here, i have a feeling of agreement on this one). they were 2.6 each and connected in parallel, it would be a nominal impedence of 1.3. If they were in series, we would be looking at 5.2 ohms.

Which either way still doesnt jive in my book. If you feel its okay for your car, and others, then cool. I however dig deeper into it, and like to do it the correct way. Call it a professional standard if you will. Although, i could easily slap my own amps in, and this whole thing becomes a moot point. And hopefully you were defining parrallel and series for other peoples benefit. I am well schooled in impedence. I have no problem listing my credentials when it comes to this stuff, however this is not my intention. My whole goal here is to help better the sound in the s-type without people killing themselves in the wallet.

If you have a better way, feel free to post it. No one said there is only 1 way to skin a cat.

 

Hey "phd12volt" how you doin? I'd like to see those pics can you send me a link, i'm really interested in it's wiring I have the duo sub set up in my X-Type and have dropped that sub housing, ran line/input from there to a ten inch sub/bx (shop did it). Now i'm going to change out the factory 6.5 subs to kicker, all this talk back and forth has got me interested in the fact amp and the wiring. One side note question: the shop ran signal from the stock sub lines can/should this same signal be used to power amps to entire Audio system or is that signal strickly for sub use? I ask because the signal is not from the head unit up front but rather the sub wires in the trunk what do you think? E-mail me here or at forist.v.johnson@uscg.mil.

 

i was away all weekend with the kids, and i am going to try and upload the pics tonight, unfortunately i work until late at night.

Anywho. If the signal was ran from the subwoofer speaker leads, then you will be frequency limited to the factory output. Example, think of the amplifier as a distribution network. It distributes the correct frequencies to the correct speakers. Most factory systems (not all of them, this is nothing more then a general statement) limit the output of the subwoofers to lets say 80-100 hertz. So anything you try to hookup to those factory amplifier outpur leads, will only function up to 80-100 hertz. So you would only want to run those outputs to either a high/low converter or directly into a high level input on an aftermarket amplifier. Granted most amps have a built in crossover network, you would not really need to use it, you may in fact actually degrade what signal is there, due to what we call "shelving" of frequencies. This "shelving" occurs when you have a crossed-over input, (like the output from the factory amplifier), and then try to cross it over on the aftermarket amplifier. Sometimes you can better "dial in" the sound by combining these also, but will need access to a RTA (real time analyzer) to see what the crosover is doing when you start messing with it.

ill expand later, let me know if your following this.

 

Oh please upload those photos soon! I know my XJR shares the same "premium" Alpine system with the S-Type's and I can easily say I am less than pleased with it. For goodness sakes, the audio system in my former '96 Lexus GS300 sounded better!

Which subs did you order to replace the factory ones?

 

Yes I follow, usually I prefer to do my own stuff but time restraints and Laziness get involved, when you have shops do the work you don't always know what they did or how. For the stock subs it would appear that these leads/input will do just fine but when I add an Amp for the door speakers i'll need to run RCA converter from Head unit, sounds right to you?